Bengtson95

So I have stripped one of my header bolts, I have long tube headers so the thick flange is keeping it from leaking. Obviously aluminum threads are not strong and header bolts back themselves out, so I was wondering If i could install steel threaded inserts into my new set of heads currently off the car...I work in a machine shop and have access to all the proper tools. To alleviate the header bolts backing out I was going to drill a hole through all the bolt heads so I can use lock wire, I was in the army and we lock wired EVERYTHING and never had any issues with it coming undone. Has anyone heard of this? I know its overkill but once header bolts are installed. There's no reason for them to be loosened unless ur removing the head so i figured it would be a worthwhile upgrade

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Only reason why header bolts back out is either they aren't properly torqued and/or when installed, a new gasket is used, gasket shrinks from heat cycles and the bolts loosen. In order to get bolts tightened with headers the best thing to use are either 3/8X1" or 5/16X1" ARP header bolts. You can easily get a socket or wrench on them to get them tight. Especially the first bolt on cylinder #2. Always torque the flange from the inside out. After a few heat cycles, recheck the torque on the bolts. Most likely they'll be loose. Tighten them and you should be golden. Wiring the bolt heads are not necessary. I've always read of people using heli-coil for stripped out holes.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

Heli-coil is a proper fix

Bengtson95

Iv been tightening those bolts in the car every 6 months or so since I installed them. Maybe there's too much vibration going on? Iv been needing motor mounts I believe.. and helicoil isnt really a proper fix. Installing a steel threaded insert is the proper fix if the heads are our off the car.

Bengtson95

Pretty sure lock tight doesnt do much because of the heat cycles could b wrong though. Also all those bolts were tightened with a tiny wrench and never torqued because how the F would I torque those. Excuse my french

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Curious... why are you "wondering" if it's a proper fix in your original post? Changing out motor mounts won't make a difference with header bolts. What bolts are you using? I have 3/8" ARP's and am able to torque them down without issue. If you can't properly torque your bolts down, it won't matter what you do to secure the bolt heads, the gaskets will blow out. I use an extended length open/box end wrench that woks perfectly. Loc-tite would be fine, but depending on what strength you use, you may run into trouble getting them off.

Bengtson95

well helicoil is a repair. A steel threaded insert is more of an upgrade. But perhaps I just need better bolts. I used the ones supplied with my headers which were cheap. This was more of a post to just see what you guys thought. I guess all that work isnt necessary so I'll just get some good bolts in there. The ones supplied were junk 6pt and the head was too large to get the wrench on around the header pipes

Bengtson95

I was more "wondering" because I never heard of anyone doing it, it's just something we do when to part is aluminum but needs to have strong threads so we install the steel insert

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Not sure how much torque you want to apply to a header bolt, but many people for the last few decades have great success using heli-coil on header bolt holes.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

a heli coil is a steel threaded insert...

heli-coil is a name for a type of steel threaded insert

Are you planning on installing keen-serts or time-serts?

I am a machinist in an aerospace shop and we install heli-coils right after we machine them on a lot of our parts we manufacture. A heli-coil IS an upgrade to aluminum threads because you are replacing them with steel threads.

Bengtson95

I was under the impression helicoil was more of a spring rather than a solid unit, maybe I'm just misinformed.. we dont use them in our shop and I have never had the need for them before. I am familiar with keen-serts that's specifically what i was referring to i thought that would be a good upgrade while the heads are off the car.. u been in the trade long? I am 2 years into my toolmaker apprenticeship. Machining is awesome. Were an aerospace tooling shop

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

You would be misinformed. It's not a spring at all, it's a threaded insert as already stated. They're used in the oil field as well. The valve blocks we used are made from solid stainless steel, which is too soft and likes to gall, so helicoils are put into all the bolt holes to create stronger threads.

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

Helicoil is only as strong as the crappy material you stick them in.

But, it would be my pick for fixing boogered up aluminum threads. As far as safety wiring your bolts, well, good luck, I think its overkill but to each their own.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

I've been a programmer for around 7 years, started out as a mechanical drafter/designer but got bored of just drawing pictures.

A keen-cert is essentially just a heli-coil that is staked. Pretty overkill for a thread that was just aluminum.