On the previous motor, I had the "momentary oil pressure drop at WOT", between 3-4K RPM, the oil pressure would drop about 10# then quickly recover for whatever reason. It actually looked more like a bounce or spike. After researching, I have seen where ACE1252 had the issue and he stated that when he installed the Moroso 21085 oil pan and the Canton 20-013 pickup, the issue was gone. So I am considering that route.

I also saw where many had fitment issues with this oil pan, but that was many many years ago. Anybody have any experience with this Moroso pan recently? I saw where it would not seal well against the block, and I also saw where it hit the steering rack. Also have a concern it might hit my gen1 LPP LT headers. I really dont want to spend $400 if it creates additional issues. Im also tempted to just put the stocker pan and pickup back in, because I honestly cant see how this little blip of a pressure drop, could really hurt anything. But I could be wrong.

Thanks

 

Drop in pressure was most likely cavitation. Stock LT1 pans are notorious for it.

 

Just saw your message wrd.

Both the Moroso pan and canton pickup solved my oil pressure issues(20185 Moroso Pan and a Canton 20-013 pickup). I think the pickup did more for it than the pan as it pulls the pickup location backwards. I was having the problem on acceleration as my car got faster. I think it was pushing the oil further back in the pan to where the stock pickup started sucking air. I have not tried the stock pan with the canton pickup. I hate fighting the k-member so much, that I pull the engine if I need to pull the pan...thus I've not bothered to try the stock pan with the canton pickup.....but I think it would be worth a shot if you didn't want to spring for the pan. The only question might be is if the depth of the pickup is okay with the stock pan. I think it would be...but best to check the clearance with modeling clay before locking it all down.

I had three problems with this pan.

* I had to relieve the pan rail so the knock sensor would fit right(cut with a dremel) .
* Oil leaks around where the pan fits over the crankshaft(pulled the engine twice to fix this).
* Stock 96-97 exhaust will not work.

To solve the oil leaks, got pissed off and put a light bead of the right stuff the full length of both ends of the block, laid down the gasket, then put a light bead of the right stuff on top of the crankshaft sections of the gasket. From there, install the pan.

That does make the pan a pain to get back off as the right stuff locks it down well....but no leaks. With the stock pan, I only had to put the right stuff in areas that the factory service manual recommended.

Even with the above, I'll take it, as I'd rather deal with "right stuffing the gasket" than starve the bearings of oil running down the track or on a hard pull down the highway or up an on ramp.

Moving to this pan forced me to buy headers. If I ever had to get headers...I wanted Kooks....so in for a penny, in for $1600.00. That was painful...but was also good as I picked up an easy 30-40hp with them. Stock exhaust is terribly restrictive with the CC503 cam(ran stock exhaust with the CC503 for a couple of years). Just be aware of that possible cost if anyone reading this is not running headers already. Lower $$$$ if you don't buy Kooks...but they are really, really, good.

I had no issues with the pan hitting the steering rack. Not sure how that could happen.

The kickout is really, really, close to my headers....but does not touch.
http://www.ace1252.com/images/1996_L...s/DSCN4013.JPG

Stock oil level sender will be useless with headers and this pan. My solution is solve it was two 1/2 watt resistor leads(something to short it). The wire is just the right diameter as to not damage the plug contacts if you go back to a setup that can use the oil level sensor. I twisted the ends together, lightly soldered, twisted s small wire nut on the end, and some electrical tape to wrap it all up. I think I wire tied it to the left side of the transmission safely out of the way.
http://www.ace1252.com/images/1996_L...s/DSCN3994.JPG
http://www.ace1252.com/images/1996_L...s/DSCN3998.JPG

Before:
After:

 

Okay I got the Moroso oil pan, and sure enough, the mounting holes need to be elongated in order to fit the block correctly. Its an absolute shame they Moroso wont address the manufacturing process to ensure this pan fits correctly. But of course that would cost them money. Its just unforgivable that the thing wont just bolt up like it should especially considering the cost of it. Oh well...its aftermarket parts right? Just looking forward to it doing its job.

 

Can you snap a pic of it? I didn't have to modify any holes as I recall. I do have one or two of them along the pan rails that are borderline too close to the inside of the pan rail. Depending on the gasket, i can get a bolt hole leaking oil. A small dab around the bolt flange fixes it.

Did you get the canton pickup too?

 

I put a staple in the two slots of the plug which worked fine.

 

That works and is certainly simpler than that I did....anything to short it.

Edit: My post you quoted would make more sense if I put "My solution to solve it...." as it does kinda sound like I'm making a statement as to that being the "only" way to solve it. I'll tweak so it reads better.