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when installing pressure plate to the flywheel, is it normal that PP does not contact the flywheel and is 1/4" off when you first hand tighten the bolts?PP is touching flywheel once I tighten the bolts, but it didn't quite feel right at first. Also the forks which used to be concave are pretty much flat now that the PP is torqued down which I suppose makes sense and without the throwout bearing engaged the whole force is squishing clutch plate as intended. Does that make sense? sorry for the dumb question, the youtube guide I Followed said 15lbs for the PP bolts + another 30* but I wonder how accurate that is with the PP pushing against the bolts because of the forks, close enough I guess.
I'm just looking for reassurance before I bolt the trans up and get mad that I have to pull it off again.
The way it is installed now the clutch is supposed to be in full contact of the PP and FW. It is in an engaged state. The clutch is a pull style so when you depress the clutch the clutch fork will pull back on the throwout bearing to release the pressure. What torque value did you use to tighten the PP bolts?
thanks guys, I set my torque wrench to 25lbs I think, but it wasn't acting right, I gotta test it somewhere else as it didn't feel right and kept tightening so I might break them all loose and try again just for safe measure.
If not and you end up with a serious vibration up above 3000 rpms, it could be that the plate is not balanced correctly. Just keep that in the back of your mind. I pulled my trans 3 or 4 times trying to fix an out of balance Autozone kit pressure plate.
thanks guys, I set my torque wrench to 25lbs I think, but it wasn't acting right, I gotta test it somewhere else as it didn't feel right and kept tightening so I might break them all loose and try again just for safe measure.
assuming your TQ wrench is accurate, 25 ft lbs is "likely" OK but spec is 22 ft lbs. If you tighten the PP bolts to much though you will have disengagement issues
Also the note about balance holes drilled in one or more of the 3 "ears" of the PP mating surface is true. Unfortunately many of these replacement clutch kits do not have them which can cause engine vibrations at x RPM's...which is a problem that must be resolved. The China clone PP's are basically the only ones now regardless of clutch brands but some do still have balance holes drilled in them
BTW, it is possible the clutch fork will not have enough clearance when the clutch is depressed and will come into contact with the pressure plate. Unfortunately the only way to know this is by bolting up the trans and either depressing the pedal and knowing if it's at full travel or by starting, depressing and feeling vibration/hearing noise. I would suggest mounting the trans only with a few bolts top/bottom/side, mounting the slave and starting the engine in neutral and depressing the clutch. If it does make contact you will have to remove the trans and make some clearance on the fork. Good new is the fork will be marked up so you'll know exactly where you have to clearance it.
Here's mine:
I think you are the 2nd person I read about having the fork buzz the PP on a single disc clutch using a stock MC (non adjustable). The notch mod would work if that happened or cut a washer thickness of the base of the "T" stud the fork is on.
It is more common on twin disc clutches to see this. Happened when I installed my McLeod twin. Tech said cut the T stud which for me worked well. To get full disengagement I had to adjust the MC (adjustable was included in the twin kit) out and the fork hit PP before complete disengagement so I had to make the T bolt cut
I ran several brands of single disc clutches, including a SPEC 2+, and all were plug & play on install. When I went to 383 internal balanced motor I had all of them neutral balance the PP & FW at a machine shop.
Now it seems the china clone PP all the companies now use vs the original Valeo are not factory balanced matched which for some have cause vibration issues with stock rear external balanced motors. I believe the PP should be neutral for either a internal or external balanced motor with the FW being the difference in weighted or neutral
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First time doing a clutch, does this look ok? 
