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So the Canton Racing "Road race pan" was highly recommended as G-force related oil starvation seemed to be the most logical cause of my spun #1 rod bearing.
They sent the wrong pan the first time (2 piece seal version) delaying my install 2 weeks.
Now, one whole side of bolt holes are so far off I can't get close to installing the bolts:
What part number is that one?
I’m wondering now... It used to be where they’d use a stock pan to do their thing. Now i’m wondering if they’re using aftermarket cheap Chinese crap?
Worse case you can always ream out the hole.
What part number is that one?
I’m wondering now... It used to be where they’d use a stock pan to do their thing. Now i’m wondering if they’re using aftermarket cheap Chinese crap?
Worse case you can always ream out the hole.
15-240T
Chinese is exactly what I was thinking...
Can't ream it, the bolts head would be in solid contact with the pan wall. Would have to beat the side of the pan in...
I've read of f-body owners ordering this pan by mistake. The bolt pattern should be the same, but it has been reported the pan may come into contact with the steering linkage or k-member or exhaust, or....
The one you want is the 15-242T:
I've read of f-body owners ordering this pan by mistake. The bolt pattern should be the same, but it has been reported the pan may come into contact with the steering linkage or k-member or exhaust, or....
The one you want is the 15-242T:
Thanks everyone for the help. The 3rd pan arrived not much better than the previous. I was able to reshape it with a dead blow and 2x4's. I still had to tear drop 2 holes but got it on. I modified the OEM rail stiffeners which helped flatten the rail back down.
My Moroso has spots where it leaks at the back around the crank and around one of the pan rail holes as it's drilled so close to the inside of the pan. I solved it by using the right stuff on the gasket and a small dab on that hole. Makes removing the pan tough, but better than the thing leaking all over the place......like I've got now.
Three of the pan bolts backed out, dropped the corner of the pan and broke the seal. I'm going to have to fix it soon.....hence my plans of throwing some different heads on it when I fix it....maybe even a different cam as well.
I'd heard that pan was a glorified drag pan. Got any pics of the innards? I've been road racing on a stock pan since 2013 with no issues, I just keep it full.
I'd heard that pan was a glorified drag pan. Got any pics of the innards? I've been road racing on a stock pan since 2013 with no issues, I just keep it full.
Come to think of it, I actually don't, but they are dragging their feet getting me an RMA# so I'll go take some right now of the first pan...
Last edited by Gen2-LT4; Oct 21, 2019 at 01:26 AM.
It has been reported before these pans, even with the baffling system, have been known to have windage issues especially with stroker cranks. Mine has this issue when filled up to its 6qt. Capacity. I always fill with 5.5 or 5.75 qts and it resolves the problem. I only like this pan because nothing had to be done to it to make it fit with the 3.875 crank.
It has been reported before these pans, even with the baffling system, have been known to have windage issues especially with stroker cranks. Mine has this issue when filled up to its 6qt. Capacity. I always fill with 5.5 or 5.75 qts and it resolves the problem. I only like this pan because nothing had to be done to it to make it fit with the 3.875 crank.
I think people have had issues with using the built in crank scraper/tray. I am running a similar pan (the 244t, 3rd gen version) and took that stuff out in favor of a bent up factory tray. Seems fine.
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Canton Oil Pan WTF?! 
