Stay away from a Holley, they look pretty but could never get my car to run right when I had one and I'm not the only one who has had an issue. If you are on a budget, Professional Products works well. Another option is BBK but I've not run one.

 

The tpis is pricey but it's a nice construction I also believe they are the only ones with a isolated iac passage.

 

No budget limitations, I only want the best.

Is it worth bypassing the coolant portion? Vegas weather doesn't necessitate de-icing...

 

the tpis doesn't have the coolant passage. I also just looked they only make a 58mm I could have sworn they made a 52

 

Was it due to no air passage for the IAC? I have a 58mm LPE/Acell and for years I couldn't figure out why my car wouldn't idle for **** and would have to relearn if power was ever disconnected from the PCM. Wasn't until I read here about some aftermarket TB's not having an air passage. Drilled one and now it's fine and doesn't have to "relearn."

 

IMHO, if you can find a source to do it, have your stock 48 bored to 52. Many years ago a guy named David Kudos did them and is the guy who did mine. A stock TB re-bore is WAY more plug & play as it has the correct IAC air passage.

I will note you "may" (if this is a H/C build) need to drill the stock 1/8" IAC hole 1/64" larger but DO NOT do this unless you have scan ability to read IAC counts. That note applies to any TB especially aftermarket ones where you will need to drill the hole. IAC counts want to be 32 (30-35) at idle with engine at full operating temp

Bypass the coolant flow through. I just use 3/8" vacuum caps on the ends of the TB nipples but none are needed

 

Nah, I had issues with wacky shifting, no shifting at WOT, I think the idle hung a bit, etc. No matter what I did I couldn't get the car right with that Holley, even my old man was ******* with it while I was away at school and nada. I bolted on an el cheapo Prof Products unit, didn't drill the IAC, just set the TPS and have never had a problem in the 12 years since.

Another nice option, if you can find one, is an AS&M (Arizona Speed & Marine). Oh and definitely bypass the coolant passage, you have no need for it.

 

I've had a Holley 52 for years without issue. No hang up, no idle issues, counts look ideal, very fast startup too.

 

You are correct, there website lists it as, "no longer available" but I ordered one over the phone. Apparently the person who took care of the website side of things passed away 2 years ago and took the access with them...

 

I ordered the MAF housing they offered since it was only $75. If it proves no extra power and/or causes any issues ill just return to stock, small gamble. Ill post DYNO results but due to the holiday season im not sure exactly when that will happen. Is need to send the Nitrous kit to Induction Specialties to have it inspected and flowed. I dont want to take any chances (even though its only jetted 175hp)...

 

Just watch your WOT air/fuel ratios with the MAF ends.

Are you installing a 52mm TB at the same time?

 

I figure the TB will go on right away since the MAF will correct for it. But ill wait till DYNO day to put the MAF housings in. Even TPIS warned it will throw off the calibration significantly (obviously). If the lack of a screen makes the readings unstable or there is no benefit ill just take them right back off. No harm no foul...

I have a 3rd bung in my collector just for the wide-band O2 my DYNO guy uses. Ill likely get a wide-band stand alone and install it to keep an eye out when using the N2O...

Anyone have a recommendation for that?

 

Innovate LC1 is the simplest setup imo

 

I have an AEM. The controller is built into the gauge.

 

I second this, the TPIS throttle body is a very nice piece. Mine has been very good and it's been on my car since 2007