Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

Given that the LT1 market for aftermarket stuff is quite dead, and I have ADHD with car tinkering.. ..I present, this, BMW parts!

• Pump is a CWA400, which will flow 58gpm with a 8psi head.
• Its a hell of a pump compared to the free flow rated 55gpm I have on the motor now.
• CWA400 pulls 36amps at full bore, meziere claims only 7amps.
• Specs come very close to what the OEM mech pump moves, which is very cool.
• Pump can be run as a on/off setup, but I am using a Holley output to PWM the pump flow.

Currently have no thermostat in the motor and I blocked the bypass port in water pump housing. Goal is to slowly ramp in pump as heat calls for and have it set for a proactive ramp in based off of TPS.



After verifying pump worked on the bench, roughed it into the car for some trial live running. Was concerned with the height relationship between rad cap and EWP, but so far has proved to be not an issue.




This is the fan settings, so 20% fan speed. ECT stabilized at this point.


And the water pump settings, 52% of pump speed.


I did not pick the 168* ECT as a goal, was thinking I would shoot for 180* but, guess this pump moves some water. Previously at a idle warm up, it would run right to full fan settings at 185* area.

So after proving concept to myself, mounted pump down low.



Some custom advance auto coolant hose action


Hope to drive it tomorrow and verify my duty cycle tables.

randeez

yep, those pumps push a ton of water. I have a 55pgm meziere on the engine, i havent seen the need for more but one of these will be replacing it, if it ever dies

for my a2w loop i had a davies craig on it before, it was really the only thing that would work in the location i had, but it was pretty unimpressive. i moved the tank all the way to the back, added 30' of hose to the system, put a cwa400 on it and still outperforms the DC by a mile.

pierburg makes a standalone controller for these also that pretty much just works off a gm temp sensor, search tinyCWA, has a bunch of preset configs built into it to maintain various temps, warm up cycles, output to control fan relays.

MuhThugga

Not bad. This would be beneficial in cars where room is limited in front of the engine and a regular electric water pump would result in needing to move the radiator forward, such as an LT1-swapped 944.

Not that I'm speaking from experience or anything.

Sway Tale

How did I miss this...

The CWA400 works great with the LS. I am using radiators that are a bit small for the LS and it still manages to work great

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

Cause its the Gen 2 LT1 area and not related to optisparks.

wretched73

I take it your BMW hybrid is still working well?

Sway Tale

But seriously, I didn't think anyone would get excited about this pump. I keep seeing crummy bilge pumps and fan motors attached to pump vanes everywhere and people keep saying it's quality stuff.

​​​​​its nice that someone else is enjoying the pierburg water pump setup

BALLSS

OP

Now that is some innovative hot rod modding. Glad it works for you

pdxmotorhead

Nice one.. While googling around,, found a controller that looks interesting,, "tinyCWA" not free but darn cool gadget, no relation just saw it and thought "cool"
In theory it could run one of the fancy fans as well I think? I'm already running a 2 speed with my Terminator but this has potential..
My jeep has somewhat constricted cooling, it actually cools down with RPM, so it seems I have a slight mis match in BTU;s in and out at various RPM.
Which is what made me look at this..

Sway Tale

The tinyCWA is kinda worthless for anything other than the CWA pumps, it has a fan output to control only a switched relay. There are some options in it but you would waste a lot of time comparing output pwm to setting values. A standalone ems like AEM infinity or the Holley can control something such as PWM fans, or the CWA pumps for that matter. You can even buy/build an Arduino PWM controller with some google skills if not using a standalone EMS.

What engine is in your Jeep? I ask because I am using a Cherokee XJ radiator mounted below the LS and I do not experience any overheat like most Jeep swaps complain about. I also don't have adequate fans on it either.

pdxmotorhead

I'm running a 5.3/L33 right now I am using a two speed ford fan with relays controlled by the terminator X I'm running, I was thinking about trying a speed controller on the Low speed side.

I don't have any big overheating problems, highest it gets is 216 at low rpm and low/stopped speed, soon as I hit the gas, even if stopped it cools down to between 210-205..
I've got a stock dimension YJ radiator, but its almost 4" thick aluminum.

I was looking at the CWA , just as a interesting pre-built option for a electric pump. Been considering going to one on my Jeep because I find that if I avoid heat cycling, Everybody has their Voodoo,, I get way way better life out of aluminum block engines if the running temp says dead on a number instead of cycling up and down...


Cheers

smokeshow

iTrader: (17)

I've run my build for a couple years on this pump as the primary water pump. Watches ECT on CAN and controls the PWM fan and pump accordingly. If BMW did it with relative success, why not us too

Sway Tale

I am using the tinyCWA to control the CWA400 and my fan relay. I am very happy with it. The edelbrock PF4 does not have any programmable PWM outputs. I do not use a thermostat and am able to hold temps where I want them. Idling still requires fans to help out.

I think for PWM on those fans you would need a seperate module, or brushless fans instead. Regular multi speed fans pull too many amps anyway. Most oem pwm controlled fans such as mercedes and audi already have the module on the shroud. Can the Holley do positive 12v pwm control?

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

You can PWM anything Results may vary.

I have my fans on PWM via holley, and their old derale pushers, def not brushless.

The holley TermyX (which is what I have) can only -pwm

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

I am preparing to use this pump on my c7z as the main engine wp and drive with holley efi already on board
any tips or tricks greatly appreciated
has anyone measured the pressure required to push through a late gm v8 and radiator, just curious if it is over or under the 10psi that this apparently crosses the EMP WP32 at

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

The big things are the PWM of this pump is reverse, so 0% DC is 100% pump etc. I have a TermyX so it only does -PWM, so I used a 1k ohmn pull up resistor to get the pump to work.

I used this video as my guide.

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

having p+ option on my dominator, you are saying would streamline the setup/ connections process?

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

Yup, believe you would not need a pull up resistor.

Sway Tale

The pressure is no longer important because neither of these pumps will ever make the pressure "required", Both pumps are capable of more than enough flow, you may have to tinker with hose sizes and auxiliary coolant branches.

Examples would be:
I no longer use the rear steam ports on the LS
Length of hose is relative to hose diameter. Too small of a diameter and it doesn't flow enough, too long of a hose and it requires a larger diameter. This is more noticeable on the water pump inlet. I run a 1.5" hose but its only ~6" long
Removing the thermostat will resolve some of the pressure related issues, however, you will need to convert the heater core/top of engine bleed(steam ports) to be an integral circuit of the engine and not rely on the stock thermostat...cannot use the stock water pump as a housing or that layout without blocking the thermostat bypass.

The only downside to removing the thermostat is erratic temperature swings. Not necessarily bad but you may have too low of a temp when cruising a constant speed on the highway because the water pump either runs too fast or too slow. Another interesting solution is to put restrictors to direct pressure, such as the heater core feed hose, which would result in more volume going to the radiator but maintaining pressure and flow at the heater core. It becomes a balance of velocity vs volume, its most noticeable using multiple sensors to measure different areas...even the LH cylinder head vs RH. Without a thermostat the temperatures will stabilize even with the most inefficient system.

Quick and dirty solutions to avoid all the non sense I mentioned:
Increase cooling system fluid capacity: larger radiator or an external coolant reservoir such as the one used when installing an air to water intercooler. Just having more of the coolant will give you the effect of pissing into the ocean. In this case the heat is ****.
You could run two pumps to make more pressure.....one can be before radiator and one after. I am not poking fun....one WP32 was commonly used in this fashion in combination with a mechanical pump on the engine in a Mid engine car...

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

not to be greedy for info, but does this still happen with the red signal wire, or do i instead tie the reds together and use the black signal wire?
THANKS!