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Jul 30, 2022 | 12:04 AM

RedLT1Z

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LE2 Build Thread

I am starting to gauge interest in building a spare motor I have had sitting in my garage for a couple years. The donor motor is from an earlier model Corvette ('94 I believe, but I haven't looked at date codes in a year or so), but I did verify it has 4-bolt mains (as well as composite valve covers), and it was bolted to a ZF6 when I bought it. I've since sold the transmission.

I am planning on running a LE2 top-end. LE2 heads, and a LE 227/235@110 cam. This will be going into a '97 Camaro SS 6 speed that has your typical bolt-ons. Should be around 400-430 to the tire I'd hope. Car is a weekend cruiser.

Looking for advice as far as what I should do with the motor to handle the horsepower reliability while still remaining somewhat budget conscious. So far here is what I am thinking:

Bottom End:

Stock Crank
Mahle Forged Flat Top -5cc Pistons/Rings (930200330)
6" Forged 4340 rods w/ 7/16" rod bolts (2-ICR6000-7/16)
7/16" ARP Connecting Rod Bolts
ARP Main Studs
Clevite or King Main, Cam and Rod bearings
Hot tank block, polish crank, bore/hone .30 over, deck the block install bearings, balance and assemble short lock

Top End:

LE 227/235 .565/.579 110 LSA
LE2 Heads
LE Ported Intake
Comp Cams Ultra Pro Magnum 1.6 Rocker Arms 3/8" Stud SA 1618-16
ARP High Performance Series 3/8" Rocker Arm Studs 134-7101
Lunati 73925k5 Valve Springs (inc. w/ heads)
COMP Cams High Energy Hydraulic Roller Lifters 850-16
COMP Cams Hi-Tech Pushrods 7938-16 (length needs to be measured/verified)
New OEM Oil Drive Gear 19052845
Camshaft Retainer Bolt 14093637
Timing Set - Cloyes C3039
Fel Pro Gasket Set 260-1650 (Mr Gasket 5716 026 head gasket)
ARP Pro Series Cam Bolts for SBC, BBC, and LT1 / LT4 234-1001
ARP Head Bolts 134-3701

Misc:

36-40# Injectors (delphi?)
Oil pump
24x Conversion
58mm TB (car currently has 52MM)
Tuning

Questions:

Should I run stock oil pan? What are benefits of upgrading?
Retain windage tray if stock pan?
Should I replaced with a new OEM oil pump? My understanding high volume will be bad, but what about high pressure? Or should I just install a white spring?
3/8" vs 7/16" Rocker Arm studs? Is it worth the extra $$ for 7/16 at this point or is 3/8" plenty for my power range?
Anything else I should be considering doing while I have the motor out? K-member, brake lines, clean up engine bay, etc

Appreciate any feedback. This will not be an overnight build and will likely be something I slowly chip away at over the next year or two.

Jul 30, 2022 | 07:10 AM

nickp

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Definitely go with 7/16 studs and rockers. They're alot more rigid for not much more money.

Jul 30, 2022 | 08:04 AM

SS RRR

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From: Jackstandican

Definitely 7/16th studs
I don’t think a stock displacement engine will move enough air to need a 58mm TB
stock pan is fine
i believe there are now standard pumps you can buy which already have a high pressure spring. Regardless, yes, standard volume/high pressure spring.
36# injectors will be plenty
I see “full exhaust” in your sig, but what does that mean? Depending on your exhaust setup and a cam profile like that look for high 300 to low 400whp unless you find a generous dyno.

Jul 30, 2022 | 08:08 AM

Fast355

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Personally I run a stock volume big block pump using the L88 spring with a metal sleeved drive shaft mounted on an ARP stud in all my small blocks.

Jul 30, 2022 | 08:14 AM

Fast355

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SS RRR

Granted its 383 cubes, but with ~210cc Lloyd ported heads I made 412 hp and 430 tq at the wheels through a 4L85E and GM 10.5" 14-bolt full floating rear end with a 270/284 @ 0.006, 218/228 @ 0.050 on a 108 LSA and 106 ICL. 1.7 roller rockers giving 0.578 lift. Heads flow 274 cfm @ 0.500 and 291 cfm @ 0.600. Ported L31 truck manifold with an 80mm TB.

Jul 30, 2022 | 08:18 AM

SS RRR

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From: Jackstandican

How did it do at the track and at what race weight?

Jul 30, 2022 | 08:37 AM

99 Black Bird T/A

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FWIW - in my opinion if your into the motor for new pistons & new rods, might as well also do a stroker crank and build a 383. Will add some cost of course and a different cam etc.

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Jul 30, 2022 | 08:58 AM

SS RRR

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From: Jackstandican

Quote:

Originally Posted by 99 Black Bird T/A

FWIW - in my opinion if your into the motor for new pistons & new rods, might as well also do a stroker crank and build a 383. Will add some cost of course and a different cam etc.

Agreed. Especially if you're already budgeting for forged pistons, OP. The only residual cost there would be is the crank and to clearance the pan rails unless you want to do that yourself. It is very possible to do so without having to fill the block.

If it's a street cruiser you will appreciate the torque output from light to light.

And I can't preach this enough- get the entire rotating assembly internally balanced. None of this externally by the flywheel balanced nonsense.

Last edited by SS RRR; Jul 30, 2022 at 09:26 AM.

Jul 30, 2022 | 11:45 AM

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RedLT1Z

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SS RRR

I don’t think a stock displacement engine will move enough air to need a 58mm TB

I see “full exhaust” in your sig, but what does that mean? Depending on your exhaust setup and a cam profile like that look for high 300 to low 400whp unless you find a generous dyno.

Yeah, I have a 52mm TB currently. Only added that for the LE ported intake, would hate to choke the motor at the start, but heck the bottle neck could be the SS ram air and not the TB. I was questioning if the LE ported intake would help much with this setup.

Pacesetter LTs, 3” ORY, cutout, 2OTL. I imagine with the new setup it could benefit from better exhaust flow. Honestly was considering installing new stainless headers (Pacesetters are 10+ years old) while I have it out and later possibly going to true duals but I hate the idea of removing the 2otl because the car is a true SS.

I do think 400rwhp is easily achievable with this setup. 430 might be wishful thinking but 400-410 should be a safe number to hit. Not having a eWP could hurt there a bit but a cam driven WP is more reliable IMO. And this is a street car.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SS RRR

If it's a street cruiser you will appreciate the torque output from light to light.

I do agree I’d love the torque of a 383. But it would add another $1000 or so to my shortblock budget. I’m already considering if upgrading the rods is overkill. Part of me is tempted to do fresh bearings, ARP rod bolts, ARP main bolts/studs and send it. I know this won’t be a crazy build, I just want a street car that is dead reliable but will run with most modern sports cars (No, I’m not talking about a ZL1, Z06, Hellcat). I would be happy with low 12’s at 114ish.