Because for similar money to the TCM-2650, I am swapping to an E67, 58X, CNP ignition and DBW. Also adding a brand new GM albeit modified engine harness. Something anyone considering a LT1 build these days should consider given the crappy nature of reman optisparks.

 

@Fast355 This is what I thought but I think I got jumbled up between posts or threads.

 

I did not mean to steer this thread too far off topic though. I just feel the newer transmissions and newer engine management systems improve the performance of more modern cars as much if not more than the more powerful engines.

 

At what point is another heads thread allowed?

Maybe for a Friday Funday...

 

You are fairly local here to DFW. Drive over to Lloyds and let him set you up with a LE2 package. His website is Elliot Portworks.

 

I was considering AFR 210s. In my book on LT1 building that I have those seemed to be the best head you could want for a stroker LT1.

One thing I absolutely must have is the ability to run LS springs like shown in that Comp article they wrote. Obviously I would have to do that myself on any head but that is important to me. My last few spring recommendations everyone wanted me to take the dampers out of the spring and I just did not feel comfortable doing that.

Doing LE heads would save me a nice chunk of change though, I have these extra LT1 heads right here. Why not just do LE3s?

Edit: Just as an aside, not to take away from LE, but I have called and left VMs numerous times with no reply. Anyone know if that is his phone number?

 

He has a newer number and is a one man show.

 

I find email works best to contact Lloyd. If he answered every call he would get nothing done

 

It's a shame, but since AI is apparently no longer in the LTx game the only "go to" is LE.... I'd still much rather explore local options. More than one head porter in this business and the LT head is nothing more than another D-port SBC cylinder head with different water jackets.

 

@SS RRR I would be fine buying heads out the box too. Main reason why I brought up AFR but some say LE2 heads are better than out of the box AFRs. Probably will go with the LE2s I think. I'll give him a shout.

I think I might be having some sort of oil issue on my duramax though, here is to hoping it is all fine and I can go ahead on the 396 lol

 

It is broke'd.

Took the car out for the first time in near two months, played a little too hard and did a nice depressing curb job. Rear left wheel most likely is fucked, I shattered the brake rotor and the axle is in a pretty bad way. The gears sound terrible now and I can barely even turn axle by hand lol
So far I have already bought another set of Impala wheels, drained the diff and pulled the brakes. I will get the axles out of the car this week sometime and then hopefully the entire rear end this weekend. Considering using this as an opportunity to go ahead and do gears...
Good news is that there is no body damage at all and I haven't seen any frame damage. I will know more when I have the rear end out of the car. I am sure there are a few bent brackets but nothing a hammer/welder can't fix

Pics to come eventually.

First ever wipeout in my life. Sucks it happened with this car and not anything else.

 

Ouch...axle flange likely bent, and you may have busted C clip shoving axle into diff. Autopsy will tell.

 

I think the flange survived but not the tube. Tube looks off.
The biggest thing was the axle seems to have shifted slightly right.

 

Does that generation of Impalas use the same Chevy S10 10-bolt diff? Just curious.

 

I believe so depending on your S10 spec.

 

I believe they use an 8.5 not a 7.5 atleast the TBI Cadillac and Caprice 9C1 I had did years ago. One of the Cadillacs I had used a 9.5 SF as well.

 

All LT1 b-body used the 8.5 that is correct
If you had a manual or ZR2 S10 you got an 8.5 10 bolt.

Edit: Some of the b-bodies got a 7.25 or something like that. Only the baby engines though.

 

Yea not sure what they used on the 4.3s and 305/307 cars.

Some of them had the 14-bolt 9.5 semi float light duty 3/4 ton truck rear axle too with 5 on 5 axles like the 454 SS trucks. The 1993 L05 TBI Cadillac I had was a factory 3.73 G80 14-bolt. It also had larger than normal B-car ball joints, spindles and wheel bearings up front. It had forged upper control arms like a 3/4 ton truck and probably GM truck lower arms. I am sure the spindles were specific to those cars as well. The front rotors, pads and calipers were the same as my G20 van.

I think that car may have been built to be converted to a limo or a hearse and was never actually converted. The previous owner had a class IV receiver hitch on the back of it and a brake controller in it. It had a factory GM rear ac unit mounted in the trunk that vented into the rear of the car, IIRC the vents were in the headliner, further enforcing the limo build option. That car also had some other weird options. GM Firestone made Air bags in the rear vs the typical air shocks, V08 cooling system with a big 1 ton truck sized clutch fan rather than dual electric fans, 2" core radiator with engine oil cooler lines on the driverside, a massive trans and power steering cooler and the 9C1 style green silicone coolant hoses. It also had hydroboost. Also had a ~130a CS-144 alternator on a factory conversion mounting bracket that mounted to the standard CS130 bracket. From the exterior it looked like your normal run of the mill black 93 Cadillac Fleetwood with a massive trailer hitch hanging out the back.

Forgot to also mention that car had an added rear lateral link on the rear end similar to a 67-72 Chevy truck as well as an OEM steering stabilizer attached to the draglink up front.

So if you want some heavy duty parts for a Caprice or Impala look at your closest limo or hearse in that year range if you see one in the wrecking yard because I am sure that is what that car was built to become from GM.

The unicorn practically indestructible 5 on 5 GM corporate 14 bolt limo axle under a Fleetwood limo.

 

Axles are out, diff looks good, fluid looks good I think I dodged a bullet there.
Popped a c clip off the driver side axle and I think it was walkin out. Passenger side axle is bent and I found where my sway bar is bent.
New axles, brakes and gear fluid are on their way. I am going to pull the sway bar off tomorrow and get the car higher up in the air for some better diagnosis whilst I wait for parts.






I was thinking about getting a true-trac now but I will wait until I have the wheels on and a better understanding of where I am in terms of making everything straight.

 

Yeah popping the C clip was what I assumed. See if the carrier rotates freely without the axles. If it binds, its done. Stock Auburn can't be rebuilt. You would want an Eation. I got their LS with 400lb springs.

Did you also tweak the DS control arms??

Stock are weak anyway. Boxing them was cheap old school and works. I have had Hotchkis on for over 20 years.