383 LT1 Idle Issue
Mod list
-383 LT1
-Torqhead 24X swap
-BBK 58mm throttle body
-Racetronix 255 fuel pump
-EGR/AIR delete
-Catless
What size hole did you drill into yours?
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Found this after a quick search here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...body+drill+mod
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That is a good thread! Thank you. I sure hope this is the solution.
First off, I performed a throttle body coolant bypass for all of $4. Super easy to do! 😃
Next, I removed the BBK 58mm throttle body and drilled a 1/8" hole with a drill press. I cleaned all the shavings out. Then, I put it back together and fired it up. It idled like garbage for 30 secs before slowly creeping up to the 1100rpms (im guessing the computer was relearning the IAC sensor again after unplugging it with the battery disconnected).
After that I gave some throttle input and it stumbled up the rpms, and then went back to a low idle again. This time it seemed to drop to about 700-800rpm and occasionally dip to the 400-500rpm range before creeping back to 1100rpm. I ran it for about 10 minutes total.
I turned it off checked for coolant leaks and then restarted. It fired up more naturally, and idled at 1100rpm and throttle input didnt cause it to drop to low rpms (it did this before the drill mod too).
I measued my stock throttle body IAC bypass hole and it appears to be between 5/32" and 11/64".
Should I drill my BBK 58mm one bigger?
I've read many forum posts saying the stock one is supposed to be 1/8"... but mine is definitely 5/32" (fAcToRy FrEaK
lmao). See pictures below:
Im gonna take it to my tuner and log the IAC counts before I drill more.
I appreciate the help!! I'll make updates with progress or issues I encounter.
1/64" larger makes a considerable change. You can't "undrill" so scan IAC at each step of drilling bigger
even with a hole on aftermarket TB's, some have different air passage machined in them than stock so compare aftermarket to stock. IMHO unless you are making over 500hp, a 52 is better and the 48 is certainly good to 450.
My engine made 520hp/485tq (crank) and I think it dynoed like 440rwhp/415rwtq on a pretty hot day. The intake is ported to 58mm too.
My stock throttle body IAC bypass hole is definitely 5/32" (1/8" and 9/64" drill bits fall straight through the hole with ease, where as the 5/32" is a perfect fit and moves easily).
I'm definitely going to data log before drilling the BBK 58mm throttle body any more. My 383 idles fine (1100rpms) until I give throttle input and only does this after the car sits for a few days/weeks. After the 383 has been warmed up and restarted, it usually idles fine; it is only ever on the initial start up after sitting for a while 😵💫. It has been an issue that has been driving me crazy because it is intermittent.
Below are the IAC counts from a data log. They ranged between 90-100 (95 in picture). Im going to drill a little bit bigger hole and test again; I think I am shooting for counts in the 35-40 range. I think it is on the right track though!
Best to dill the size hole you need but take BABY steps as 1/64 bigger makes a good drop in !AC counts. IIRC mine is 11/64 on my 383 but my TB is a stock rebore to 52. Never drill without being able to monitor IAC counts at each step









