LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

383 LT1 Idle Issue

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Old Jul 3, 2024 | 04:07 PM
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Default 383 LT1 Idle Issue

I have an idling issue with my 383 LT1. The camaro will fire right up and idle normally (1100rpms), but as soon as I apply throttle it wants to idle at 400rpms for a second and then kick back up to the 1100rpm. I have had my tuner look into the issue and they have adjusted many parameters in the tune several times. I replaced my IAC valve with a GM part (car starts better, but still a wobble in the idle). With the old IAC I had to give a little throttle to get it started sometimes. The car doesnt lean out under throttle either. Any help would be appreciated (I'm at the end of my rope hahaha)!!! See video here:

Mod list
-383 LT1
-Torqhead 24X swap
-BBK 58mm throttle body
-Racetronix 255 fuel pump
-EGR/AIR delete
-Catless
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Old Jul 3, 2024 | 04:41 PM
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are you able to post your tune
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Old Jul 3, 2024 | 04:51 PM
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I dont have a copy currently, but I can acquire it. Do you think it is something in the tune?
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Old Jul 3, 2024 | 05:08 PM
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Seems like your using 411 ECM because of your Torqhead ? Yes I suspect something in your "Idle " section of your tune perhaps like Throttle Follower
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Old Jul 3, 2024 | 05:24 PM
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I get with my tuner and get the data. I appreciate your help! Will probably be after the holiday.

Yes to the 411 PCM too! Love the Torqhead kit!!!
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Old Jul 4, 2024 | 10:11 AM
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From: Jackstandican
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Originally Posted by Sophia_LT1
I have an idling issue with my 383 LT1. The camaro will fire right up and idle normally (1100rpms), but as soon as I apply throttle it wants to idle at 400rpms for a second and then kick back up to the 1100rpm.
-BBK 58mm throttle body
This may be your culprit. Mine used to do the very same thing and after several start cycles (maybe two tanks of gas?) it would level out. Reason being is my TB had no idle hole drilled into it so the IAC had issues with trying to find the right idle speed. Once the PCM learned then it was fine. I don't remember if those BBK's have an idle hole or not, but you can either search here or google "LT1 throttle body drill mod." So, you can either live with it and see if it clears out after a few weeks, or try the drill mod if your TB does not have an idle hole. Just know if this is the issue every time you remove power from your PCM you'll have to go through this all over again. Once I drilled the TB I never have an issue after resetting/removing power.
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Old Jul 4, 2024 | 06:11 PM
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Interesting; I will see if my BBK throttle body has a IAC bypass hole. I was reading some people just adjust the throttle blades to be open a little rather than drilling.

What size hole did you drill into yours?
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Old Jul 4, 2024 | 06:34 PM
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From: Jackstandican
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I don't remember. Did it years ago. Try a search on this forum. Unless you have an adjustable throttle position sensor you don't want to adjust the blades.

Found this after a quick search here:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...body+drill+mod
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Old Jul 4, 2024 | 08:21 PM
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I'm definitely going to check the BBK throttle body to see if that hole is there. I just checked the stock throttle body and it looks to be about an 1/8" hole in it.

That is a good thread! Thank you. I sure hope this is the solution.
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Old Jul 5, 2024 | 07:40 PM
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Just checked. The BBK 58mm throttle body doesn't have a hole, but my stock throttle body does. Im gonna pull it and drill it 1/8" to start. I'll do a coolant bypass while im at it. I'll update the thread if this fixes it. Thank you for your help!!
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Old Jul 13, 2024 | 03:17 PM
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Alright I have an update.

First off, I performed a throttle body coolant bypass for all of $4. Super easy to do! 😃

Next, I removed the BBK 58mm throttle body and drilled a 1/8" hole with a drill press. I cleaned all the shavings out. Then, I put it back together and fired it up. It idled like garbage for 30 secs before slowly creeping up to the 1100rpms (im guessing the computer was relearning the IAC sensor again after unplugging it with the battery disconnected).

After that I gave some throttle input and it stumbled up the rpms, and then went back to a low idle again. This time it seemed to drop to about 700-800rpm and occasionally dip to the 400-500rpm range before creeping back to 1100rpm. I ran it for about 10 minutes total.

I turned it off checked for coolant leaks and then restarted. It fired up more naturally, and idled at 1100rpm and throttle input didnt cause it to drop to low rpms (it did this before the drill mod too).

I measued my stock throttle body IAC bypass hole and it appears to be between 5/32" and 11/64".

Should I drill my BBK 58mm one bigger?
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Old Jul 14, 2024 | 09:02 PM
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I think drilled mine to stock size IIRC.
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Old Jul 14, 2024 | 09:53 PM
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I took it out this afternoon. It idled at 1100rpm like it should and rpms returned to 1100rpms after throttle input. Usually when I let it cool down all the way it has the idle issue. Im gonna test it all week to see what it does.

I've read many forum posts saying the stock one is supposed to be 1/8"... but mine is definitely 5/32" (fAcToRy FrEaK lmao). See pictures below:



Im gonna take it to my tuner and log the IAC counts before I drill more.

I appreciate the help!! I'll make updates with progress or issues I encounter.
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Old Jul 15, 2024 | 11:40 AM
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you really need to be monitoring your IAC counts before doing ANY drilling. Stock TB is 1/8" hole. Cam cars needing slightly higher idle than stock (850 rpm) often need the hole larger. drill in 1/64 increments until IAC counts at idle are 32 (30-35). On my 383 using a stock TB bored to 52mm my hole is 11/64"

1/64" larger makes a considerable change. You can't "undrill" so scan IAC at each step of drilling bigger

even with a hole on aftermarket TB's, some have different air passage machined in them than stock so compare aftermarket to stock. IMHO unless you are making over 500hp, a 52 is better and the 48 is certainly good to 450.
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Old Jul 15, 2024 | 01:46 PM
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Definitely makes sense. My BBK 58mm appears to have the same passages as the stock one minus the IAC bypass hole.

My engine made 520hp/485tq (crank) and I think it dynoed like 440rwhp/415rwtq on a pretty hot day. The intake is ported to 58mm too.

My stock throttle body IAC bypass hole is definitely 5/32" (1/8" and 9/64" drill bits fall straight through the hole with ease, where as the 5/32" is a perfect fit and moves easily).

I'm definitely going to data log before drilling the BBK 58mm throttle body any more. My 383 idles fine (1100rpms) until I give throttle input and only does this after the car sits for a few days/weeks. After the 383 has been warmed up and restarted, it usually idles fine; it is only ever on the initial start up after sitting for a while 😵‍💫. It has been an issue that has been driving me crazy because it is intermittent.
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Old Aug 1, 2024 | 08:18 PM
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I have an update. I've been driving the 383 for the past few weeks on and off; the idle issue has only appeared 1x since drilling a 1/8" hole. This is a noticeable difference from before the hole.

Below are the IAC counts from a data log. They ranged between 90-100 (95 in picture). Im going to drill a little bit bigger hole and test again; I think I am shooting for counts in the 35-40 range. I think it is on the right track though!



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Old Aug 2, 2024 | 10:41 AM
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You could also adjust the throttle stop to open the throttle body blades and lower your IAC counts. Watch for the TPS voltage though.
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Old Aug 10, 2024 | 02:08 PM
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You can slot the screw holes on the TPS to "rotate" it to get the volts right. IMHO kinda a hack way of doing it

Best to dill the size hole you need but take BABY steps as 1/64 bigger makes a good drop in !AC counts. IIRC mine is 11/64 on my 383 but my TB is a stock rebore to 52. Never drill without being able to monitor IAC counts at each step
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Old Aug 10, 2024 | 07:56 PM
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I appreciate that! Im going to do a 9/64" hole next, then Im gonna data log again. I just havent had time and the weather has been junk lately. Im working it in baby steps; the 1/8" hole helped a lot so far! I don't think I need much more.
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