LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Best Attach Points for a Cherry Picker on 93 LT1?

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Old Sep 21, 2025 | 12:44 AM
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Default Best Attach Points for a Cherry Picker on 93 LT1?

Hello all, I am in the process of preparing to change my oil pan seal on my 93 Trans Am. I have access to all the bolts holding the pan and have detached the necessary stuff to lift the engine with a Cherry Picker 3 or so inches to get enough clearance to drop the pan. I have disconnected the exhaust y pipe, oil level sensor, oil cooler line, transmission cooler line, starter, engine oil dip stick bracket bolt, and torque converter cover.

I have one bolt threaded into the front right engine lift bolt hole in the cast iron block next to the timing cover, and have a universal engine mount bracket with a hook on the bolt. (Using a grade 8 bolt). The other bolt hole I was going to use (other engine lift bolt hole to the left of the timing cover) requires me to remove the entire intake manifold or a bunch of other stuff in the way in order to get to it and I would not like to do that if needed.

I have everything else attached ontop aside from the intake elbow removed. I need another bolt hole for another point of attachment on the rear or front passenger side of the engine so I can lift the engine up a little bit.

I've seen multiple people have lifted their LT1s with the bolts threaded into the Aluminum Heads. I thought that was sketchy since the heads are only aluminum but if others have done it before and have had no issues, do you think it's a good idea for another lifting point for the Cherry Picker? Was planning on doing this method but with universal engine brackets that have hooks on them.

Also do you think just using two bolt holes, (one bolt hole on opposite sides of the engine) would be ok or should I try and find a third or even fourth hole to lift up on? My options are very limited with most things still attached to the engine.

I can't jack on the transmission as my auto doesn't seem to have a solid jack point under there and I also don't like the method of jacking on the crankshaft hub with wood as that doesn't seem like a good idea whatsoever, nor does jacking on the oil pan with 2x4s as my oil pan is already dented from the previous owner.
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Old Sep 21, 2025 | 12:08 PM
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People lift entire BBC with carb lift plates on an alum intake. So long as you have good thread engagement and they are in good condition, the threads will hold. Alum is still metal and strong enough when you are not over tightening/torquing it or it's heavily corroded.

These are used for factory crate engines https://www.ebay.com/itm/193754851654

https://paceperformance.com/i-625505...acket-kit.html
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Old Sep 21, 2025 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by BOOT77
People lift entire BBC with carb lift plates on an alum intake. So long as you have good thread engagement and they are in good condition, the threads will hold. Alum is still metal and strong enough when you are not over tightening/torquing it or it's heavily corroded.

These are used for factory crate engines https://www.ebay.com/itm/193754851654

https://paceperformance.com/i-625505...acket-kit.html
Those are similar to what I bought to lift the engine. The heads are in perfect condition so I guess I'll just use the engine lift brackets I bought, similar to the one you linked and lift up on those.
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Old Sep 22, 2025 | 06:29 AM
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Aluminum is NOT metal, but a single 3/8 bolt threaded into the back of the head is just fine. I've done it multiple times. Just make sure you have good thread engagement as previously stated.
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Old Sep 22, 2025 | 06:50 AM
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While Aluminum may not be the strongest metal, CAST metal is usually more ridged as well. Still I'm no metallurgist.
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Old Sep 22, 2025 | 08:25 AM
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Front DS bolt and rear PS head is perfectly fine. Rotate engine so #6 is TDC, gives more crank to pan clearance. Raise engine about 4". Be careful not to pinch wiring harness between block and firewall. I use the FelPro one piece pan gasket. Permatex Black Ultra RTV on the curved ends and run it about 1" onto the flat part of gasket
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Old Sep 22, 2025 | 10:24 AM
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From: Jackstandican
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The way I've suspended my engine for this is to get this:


... suspend the engine using a front bolt hole on drivers cyl. head and the back chain using the alternator intake manifold bolt (longer than the rest) and raise the engine off the mounts.
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Old Sep 22, 2025 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
The way I've suspended my engine for this is to get this:


... suspend the engine using a front bolt hole on drivers cyl. head and the back chain using the alternator intake manifold bolt (longer than the rest) and raise the engine off the mounts.
I did see this as an option, I also saw the happy hooker as an option but that's no longer being made.

Does anyone know if the driveshaft needs to be disconnected or the transmission tail shaft bracket bolt that holds the tailshaft up in place?
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Old Sep 22, 2025 | 11:41 AM
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From: Jackstandican
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No. DS can stay in place.
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Old Nov 3, 2025 | 11:52 AM
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Default Stamped VIN number location

Sorry to piggy back on this thread but need help badly finding a stamped VIN number or partial on 1993 Z28.
Cant register it in Ireland without it.
Stuck like chuck.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
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