LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

any free mods new to lt1

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Old Aug 6, 2004 | 08:51 PM
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Default any free mods new to lt1

so any free mods on a stock 93 auto T/A?
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Old Aug 7, 2004 | 04:58 AM
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camaroz28.com

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Old Aug 7, 2004 | 05:04 AM
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or at least post this in the LT1 forum
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Old Aug 11, 2004 | 02:04 AM
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still have questions?
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Old Aug 11, 2004 | 10:45 PM
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Gut the cat, you may need o2 sims.

TB bypass

Airfoil

CAI

Emmisons, AIR pump removal

ls1 driveshaft

Anything more than that you will have to figure out, tricks of the trade.

LT1 all the way, good luck
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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 03:12 PM
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not free, but invest 50-75 bucks in getting a cutout.
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Old Aug 15, 2004 | 10:01 AM
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cutout?
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Old Aug 17, 2004 | 04:36 PM
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roadtrip120 -- Isn't the airfoil a joke and doesn't do anything?
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Old Aug 17, 2004 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 95_Firehawk_Dude
roadtrip120 -- Isn't the airfoil a joke and doesn't do anything?
Yes it's a joke
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Old Aug 17, 2004 | 07:18 PM
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airfoil is a joke, cutout is a serious bang for the buck mod, TB bypass has good results, EGR! and Airpump! both show good results.
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Old Aug 17, 2004 | 07:54 PM
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I can't find a write up for the TB bypass (maybe i havn't looked good enough). Anyone know a link off the top of their head? I've been meaning to do this for a while.

I got a few opinions on a cutout however. There is no fact behind this... just personal opinion. I think a cutout would be a joke if put anywhere after the headers. Reason: Chances are on an LT1 it is still going to go through cats then and restrict flow. Also i can't picture it making huge gains for what it is. Think about it, its about the same as having a hole in your exhaust pipe. Exhaust comes out at low R's and sounds badass (sound don't matter when it comes to performance), but at high R's i don't see it working. I see the exhaust passing up the hole just like when you have one in your piping. Just my opinion though.

I would love for someone to prove me wrong with some hard data (never seen any). Dyno numbers, flow chars ect.
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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 09:16 AM
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well, if i had a dynograph of mine on the computer i would show you. I did back to back runs with mine at MTI, 2 with cutout capped and two with it open(On an otherwise stock car except for a cold air intake. Both times i had it opened i made 12 rwhp more ACROSS THE BOARD and 14 RWTQ across the board. Mine is after the cat as far back on the I-pipe as possible and right before it humps over the exle to smoothern out the airflow within the exhaust before it is dumped. I dropped 2 tenths in the quartermile with it uncapped while pulling the same 60' on both runs and shifting at same rpm. There is no doubt that the cutout helps and anybody who has one will testify to it working FANTASTIC. ALL my buddies have had the same if not identical results with very similar setups to mine. Once i installed my heads and cam, I dynoed with the cutout open and closed. The result was an average loss of 18 rwhp with it closed. that means the 30 dollar cutout was worth approx. 18 rwhp with my setup...I dont know of any other mod that can show those results for only 30 bux, do you? Also, when you have a cutout on your exhaust, its not just like a hole, its another route by which exhuast can escape that is the same diameter as the piping itself. With the muffler and mandrel bent piping one way and open air the other way, it should be self explanitory how it works but Ill try to do my best here. Its basically acting as a pressure release. Imagine you have a y-split on a waterhose. On one branch, you have long piping that twisted and turned, and had a pressure box farther down the piping....on the other branch, you have an immediate opening by which the water can exit unpressureized. initially, water is going to fill up and exit both branches equally until the water starts to recieve more pressure within one branch. The water now starts gaining pressure going within the tubing with the bends and pressurebox so the water coming in behind it is gonna go a different way if there is an optional pathway. That nearest outlet happens to be the cutout at the y-split before it went down the piping. The water that is coming in behind it reaches the y-split and can either go down the one piping with all the pressure in it or can exit through the other branch that exits into the open air that has no pressure at all. Naturally, energy seeks the path of least resistance so the water is going to exit right there at the y-split instead of trying to force its way through the pressurized tubing. Some water is still gonna exit through the pressureized tubing, but the majority will exit through the opening at the y-split. Basicallly, the exhaust has two options when it gets to the cutout: a) going down through some tubing with a lot more pressure that causes it to slow down, or b)exiting through the cutout right then and there at a higher rate of speed. The exhuast(energy) is gonna seek the path of least resistance, and will automatically exit through the cutout creating a faster flowing exhaust. The higher the RPM's, the more exhaust(pressure) put into the piping and the more air that is gonna exit through the cutout. Much like the water, some will still exit through the pressureized piping because there is still small amounts of exhaust in there. We all know that the way to get more power is to get the air into and out of your motor as fast as possible and the cutout allows us to get the exhaust out of the motor faster than any catback exhaust you could possibly buy. If you ever watch cars with full exhaust and cutouts as well at the track doing burnouts, you will see the exhaust coming out of the cutout blowing the tire smoke around and almost no air/smoke movement from the tailpipes because the exhaust will always go through the path of least restriction.

Last edited by Gangly; Aug 18, 2004 at 09:23 AM.
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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 95_Firehawk_Dude
I can't find a write up for the TB bypass (maybe i havn't looked good enough). Anyone know a link off the top of their head? I've been meaning to do this for a while.
Umm, take the one coolant hose going into the tb and the one going out and connect them with a brass fiting from home depot. 5-7 RWHP for about $1.50 beats a cutout. You can also do this for free if you remove the passenger side hose completely and put the hose from the driver side over to where the passenger side used to connect. If that confused you let me know and I'll run out and try to take a pic.

Rich
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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 12:44 PM
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Gangly -- Thanks for the explination. I understand it perfectly now. What is the best place to put it then? As far back on the I-pipe as possible like you have it? I'm probably going to pick one up now.

94Formula/TA -- I get it. Didn't know exactly how do it (i.e. the brass fitting). Thanks.
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Old Aug 19, 2004 | 09:01 AM
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as far back as it can go on the straight part of the i-pipe if you are planning on running it after your stock cat or a highflow cat like i did. If you arent, then put it right in front of the cat. You dont want it too close to the O2 sensors just to be safe.
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Old Aug 19, 2004 | 10:03 AM
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OK. Thanks again Gangly. Sorry if i hijacked your thread Trans Am Cam. It was a good explination that we all needed to hear anyways.
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Old Aug 19, 2004 | 10:42 PM
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what is needed for a cut-out? gangly you just convinced me to get one lol. Im ganna be gettin my car back in the next day or so from a cam install, and in the next month id planned on getting 4.10 gears and msd ignition and this sounds like a cheap mod to also get done.
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