How to not kill your motor?
What is the best way to spray an LT1?
Fogger in the intake elbow...
Nitrous plate by the throttle body/NOS TB with built in plate...
Direct port...
NOS Noszzle system...
Other (incase i forgot something)...

The reason I ask is my intake is drilled for direct port, but i don't plan on spraying all the time so i don't want some huge nozzles blocking/disrupting the air flow most of the time. I figure a 175 shot is the HIGHEST i would possibly go. Normally, probably about 125.

 

probably a fogger in the elbow or somewhere before the mass air ..... dont use a wet system on the LT1 because the LT1 intake doesnt flow fuel very well, even though compucar makes a wet system for it using a plate with spray bars between the plenum and the throttle body

 

Well, if you want to run more than 100 shot, you will have to be wet. The worry of disrupting flow... that little nozzle in the port will not make much of a difference. Hell, it might even help by creating more "tumble." Full-force is 100% correct as for the intake flowing like poop. For the most part, people used N2O as a "budget" hp booster. If you have the $$ to invest, then the direct port fogger system is the only way to go. A system like that can go as high as 300 shot but no one says you have to do that. You can still run as small as a 50 shot. "Better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it!!!"

 

Hey how bout ya'll just go all motor, you guys don't deserve N2O from what I have read.

 

Every one I have ever seen spray an LT1 does it via a wet kit, with colder plugs, you motor should take a 125-150 shot prety easily. It's that tranny and peg leg rear of yours I'd be worried about. I have seen a couple people spray 175s on LT1s in the past, RacerLT1 did it to his again a wet kit. The coulple guys I know with prety fast N2O cars all spray wet, none of them like dry kits. The one person I knew with a dry kit is now switching over to a wet kit. Lt1s are just fine on wet kits, just keep colder plugs in it and invest in a Fuel Presure saftey switch. Most every one just taps the elbow.

 

Include a window switch in your install.

 

I sprayed 175 just fine, just watch the 225 shots..

I'm also all for the plate on 150 or under shots

 

One reason i was considering the NOS TB with the spray bar is cleanliness and killing two birds with one stone by getting the larger TB (yeah, i know, most people say you don't need it on small cube LT1s).

I'm waiting on a window switch, fps switch at the very minimum.

Bizzzatch - don't worry about the tranny, it's very built by an extremely reputable shop, and my rear is the same as F-bodies. I'll be fine till i add slicks.

 

IM running a TNT plate kit spraying a 100 shot and it is working out fine. I have a window switch and a fpss, but I have the fpss bypassed as I couldnt get it set right. It kept pulsating the noid, and frustrated the hell outta me. I have a fuel pressure guage and a WOT switch as well, so I think a fpss switch isn't that big of a deal.

 

I would highly recommend not doing a dry shot on the Lt1. Just spray a wet shot on the elbow and the nozzle will NOT block any air. Also, I would go NX or TNT. Stay away from NOS branded items. Just my .02

 

TnT all the way. I have been spraying the hell out of mine. I am spraying mine all the time.I have a bolt on best of 11.15 @124 This is with a 3650 race weight car.I have been spraying the car for 3 years. 95,000 valve covers never off.

 

I use the NOS #5176 DRY kit. I've had it on the car since 1997. I've made hundreds of passes with no problems. As far as I'm concerned. DRY is the only way to go. ;o)

 

wet kit, tr6 plugs, fuel pump(depending on the shot), and the safety stuff wouldnt be a bad idea either. even though some would disagree if you dont have a cat on your car it would help to mix some race gas in too

 

Your Impala is rediculous

 

I run a tnt wet plate kit on my and i laid 559whp on a 200 shot! a/f ratio was always good.

 

Dry kits are okay for small shots (<100), the only thing is you have to rely on the MAF to adjust for fuel, therefore a fuel system upgrade is a must if you wanna run a big shot(>100). Wet kits spray their own fuel/nitrous mixture into the fuel that is already present in the fuel rails. I personally think wet kits are safer and have been running my TNT kit for over 2 years now, with stock fuel system, and the only time I have ever had any problems, was user error. Don't spray in OD, don't spray below 3000rpm, or get a window switch like a finally did. And just be smart about what you are doing, If you are going to spray a 175 on the regular, upgrade your fuel system. Better safe than sorry if you ask me.

moral of the story TNT Kits are the best LT1 spray bar plate kit on the market IMO.

 

If you want a clean install and to kill two birds with one stone get a NX maf kit. You get bigger maf ends and it comes with a full throttle switch.

 

I have ran a dry kit for years. The LT1 intake is a dry one. I desighned my setup to inject at the MAF years before the NX kit was out

IF you already have the intake plumbed Run a Direct port. No reason not to. Safer in the long run. Then you do not have that large plenumn full of an explosive charge all the way to the injection point

 

No way in hell would I run jiuce with aftermarket MAF ends that is flat out asking to burn a piston as screwing with MAF ends without extensive tuning will mess up AFR because the MAF will no longer be accurately interpereted by the pcm.
Personally I think the fogger right in front of the TB is the best place. If your intake setup allows them drill your maf for the mounting point again only if right in front of the TB and straight. Plate would work well too.
I would not use a port system on that small a shot because one tiny piece of debris could easily plug those tiny fuel jets and a cylinder goes BANG, I would probably reserve a port system for say 250+ shots.
On dry systems the stock injectors can lock closed(BANG again) is overpressurized which is how a dry system handles fuel enrichment so please at least upgrade the injectors ones like the SVOs lock open and can handle more pressure anyway.

Dry systems are for simplicity and easy newbie installs the only serious/knowledgable nitrous users I know of using dry are doing so with aftermarket engine management capable of controlling the system and fuel enrichment.

Yes the LT1 intake is "dry" but also consider that the charge it will carry with a wet kit is a very lean mix because more fuel will be added at the injectors, being lean will help it stay in suspension.
On the larger TB with the injection ports just make sure your intake openings are adequately sized a 58mm TB over a 54mm hole is not going to be performance increase.
On the FP safety switch make sure to set it a few pounds LOWER than what you have for pressure because the instant the fuel solenoid opens there will be a momentary drop in pressure sounds like this is what is happening. Think about 36psi is prefered setting to avoid this. If it still cycles then you probably have to address your fuel system. The window switches and SPARK BASED rev limit are important as well you gety a good ignition and it can handle those as well as retard all in one box. The spark based rev limit is important because the pcm limits revs by shutting down the injectors again BANG.

 

How about

http://www.nitrousdirect.com/directportnitrouskit.html