Valve Springs break-in?
Valve Springs break-in? Any break in methods? I hear you have to heat cycle them. Thanks in advance.
Also the engine hasnt had oil in it for a long time (has been out of the car for 6+ months and was shipped from texas dry) ...Anything I need to do to prime the oil pump and ensure it has enough lubrication? I put the oil in from both sides..allowing the rockers to be soaked in it as I was pouring. Just looking for things to make my life easier. LOL
Thanks
Also the engine hasnt had oil in it for a long time (has been out of the car for 6+ months and was shipped from texas dry) ...Anything I need to do to prime the oil pump and ensure it has enough lubrication? I put the oil in from both sides..allowing the rockers to be soaked in it as I was pouring. Just looking for things to make my life easier. LOL
Thanks
I have heard of heat cylces for valve springs.
Let it idle and warm up to operating tempatures, drive it with out a lead foot (under 2500 rpm). Break it in. I have heard you would only need one break in cycle (one heat cycle). I would personally go through about 3-4 cycles of just bringing them up to operating tempatures then letting them cool off, then do it again. Just make sure they cool down before a repeat of cycle. All in all, I would wait about 100 miles just to be on the safe side before putting some revs on them.
Sorry, I don't know anything about your oil problem
-Todd
Let it idle and warm up to operating tempatures, drive it with out a lead foot (under 2500 rpm). Break it in. I have heard you would only need one break in cycle (one heat cycle). I would personally go through about 3-4 cycles of just bringing them up to operating tempatures then letting them cool off, then do it again. Just make sure they cool down before a repeat of cycle. All in all, I would wait about 100 miles just to be on the safe side before putting some revs on them.
Sorry, I don't know anything about your oil problem
-Todd
Thats alright..thanks for the reply... Im thinking it will prime up right away...so as long as I see some pressure I should be ok.. I put in 4 qrts and ill save the last until Im ready to start it..so I can oil down the springs, etc just prior to startup.
So close!!!
So close!!!
Originally Posted by S8ER95Z
Thats alright..thanks for the reply... Im thinking it will prime up right away...so as long as I see some pressure I should be ok.. I put in 4 qrts and ill save the last until Im ready to start it..so I can oil down the springs, etc just prior to startup.
So close!!!
So close!!!
Maybe a search will reveal your oil answers? I do agree that it should prime up, but I didn't want to give you answers that I was basing purely on a guess and then have them be 100% wrong. (or if my advice fucked up your car, that would SUCK)
-Todd
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 743
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From: Foley, Alabama-southern Alabama
Fill your oilfilter when you put it on,put all 5 qts. in.When you pour oil in the valvecover it might wet 2 springs,not soak any of them or rockers either.If you want to prime the motor before you start it disable the ignition until you get good oil pressure cranking it.Put all oil in now!!!Please!!! 
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 549
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From: St. Peters, MO
to prime your oil system you can get a bit that goes on the end of a drill that actually looks like a gear. I forget who makes it but Jegs or Summit should def know. Anyway put that into where the oil pump is and spin it to sling some oil on the fresh parts. As for valve springs....keep the revs at about 1500-2000 till motor is up to operating temp to make sure they get enough oil. Then kill the motor, do this twice with cheap dino oil and then afterwards swap the oil and filter to your favorite fresh blend and filter brand. Then you should be ready to rock.
To the guy thinking of doing his own gear swap....it's ridiculously labor intensive and if you've never done one I would leave it to the more experienced folks. Setting lash and stuff like that is crucial and should be left to those in the know.
To the guy thinking of doing his own gear swap....it's ridiculously labor intensive and if you've never done one I would leave it to the more experienced folks. Setting lash and stuff like that is crucial and should be left to those in the know.
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Originally Posted by Jordan57
to prime your oil system you can get a bit that goes on the end of a drill that actually looks like a gear. I forget who makes it but Jegs or Summit should def know. Anyway put that into where the oil pump is and spin it to sling some oil on the fresh parts. As for valve springs....keep the revs at about 1500-2000 till motor is up to operating temp to make sure they get enough oil. Then kill the motor, do this twice with cheap dino oil and then afterwards swap the oil and filter to your favorite fresh blend and filter brand. Then you should be ready to rock.
To the guy thinking of doing his own gear swap....it's ridiculously labor intensive and if you've never done one I would leave it to the more experienced folks. Setting lash and stuff like that is crucial and should be left to those in the know.
To the guy thinking of doing his own gear swap....it's ridiculously labor intensive and if you've never done one I would leave it to the more experienced folks. Setting lash and stuff like that is crucial and should be left to those in the know.
). I have never done a gear swap, so I would have my father help with that. LS1 Tech Stories
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I went through like 4 or five heat cylces on my rear end when i had gears installed. Then babied the thing till 500 miles. I think valve springs only need to be cylced like 2 times or so. Just take it easy untill you know everything is working good for a 100 miles or so.
fired it up earlier...let it cool after a few mins running...
Originally Posted by 97LT1
I went through like 4 or five heat cylces on my rear end when i had gears installed. Then babied the thing till 500 miles. I think valve springs only need to be cylced like 2 times or so. Just take it easy untill you know everything is working good for a 100 miles or so.
