How would one go about changing their stock rockers to 1.6 RR's and would this be a wise decision to do without any other internal mods?

Secondly, could someone tell me a good brand and supplier to buy them?

thanks a lot!

 

Pick up a Summit catalog or hit www.summitracing.com, you can find several brands like the following:
http://www.summitracing.com/catalogs...toct/152f.html (Summit Lightweight Race Rockers)
or
http://www.summitracing.com/catalogs...toct/153f.html (Comp Pro-Magnums)

The above just gives you an idea what's available. You may consider upgrading your springs just a tad to compensate for the RRs. I'm not sure if the stock springs with 1.6s would hold up, possibly, maybe someone else would know.

The following I found on a website, it's ok for a beginner I guess. I have my own recipe for adjusting RRs that's precise and a little quicker than this, if you want shoot me a PM and I'll type it out, etc.

Rocker Arm install
Check your pushrods for flatness on a piece of glass. Replace if necessary.
Use cam lube on both ends of the pushrods. Ensure the pushrods are clean (the middle should have no obstructions) and in good shape. If you are using guideplates, your pushrods must be hardened (‘94 and some ‘95 models have them). Install all the pushrods in the same places they came from. Make sure they seat in lifter sockets.
If you have guide plates and rocker studs that you have not installed yet, do it now. Apply thread sealant to all the rocker arm studs before installing. Torque to 50 lb. ft. (spec does not change if you are using 3/8" or 7/16" studs).
Apply cam lube to the valve stems (the exposed end of the valve at the top of the springs), the pushrod-rocker contact, and all other moving areas of the rocker arms. Some performance manuals advise pouring some oil on the rockers also.
Install all the rocker arms. Do not tighten the adjusters just yet.
Now it is time to adjust your rockers. You will need to be able to turn the crank (in the clockwise direction) to do these adjustments. Turn the crankshaft until the cast arrow on the crankshaft hub is in the 12 o’ clock position and number 1 cylinder is at TDC. Watch number 1 cylinder valves as the crankshaft hub arrow approaches 12 o’ clock position. If a rocker moves as the arrow moves to position, the engine is in the number 6 firing position. The crankshaft must then be turned one more time to reach cylinder number 1 firing position.
At this position, exhaust rockers 1, 3, 4, and 8 can be adjusted as can intake rockers 1, 2, 5, and 7. While spinning the pushrod with your fingertips, tighten the rocker down until you feel resistance in the pushrod - this is zero lash. Tighten the adjusting nut on the rocker arm an additional 1/2 - 1 turn (or whatever you think is right).
Turn the crank 360 degrees (clockwise) until the crankshaft hub is at 12 o’ clock again. Adjust exhaust rocker 2, 5, 6, and 7 and intake rockers 3, 4, 6, and 8 as you did in the step above.
Using the original gasket, or a new one, install the valve covers. Torque the bolts down to 100 lb. in. (Note : There may be interference from the rocker arms - the covers can be slightly modified (cut) to make the rockers fit)

 

It would be best to change the springs and do 1.6RRs together...

I know of someone who trapped 108mph with no interwork, stock heads and the lt4 springs/RRs.. basic bolt ons. The spring/RR combo seemed to have helped him out a lot.

 

im curious about the same thing. if i would have to change the stock springs i will wait untill i buy the heads i want because they have upgraded springs. i wonder if a 1.5 ratio roller rocker would work with stock springs? (not hijacking thread, just thinking out loud)

 

A 1.5 ratio will work with stock springs however i wouldn't expect to see much of a gain, maybe a couple hp since stock ratio is 1.5 as well. I saw back to back dyno results with 1.6rrs and the guy picked up 7hp at the wheels. If your stock springs are getting old you could see much more gain from a 1.6 rr and spring swap though. Also you can buy lt4 springs which will work great with the rockers for 40 dollars.

 

D all the above, save your dinero $$$ and make the RRs worthwhile, anyway springs are inexepensive. Save a few more $$$ and go ahead do a cam, mild, wild, or extreme, either way you'll see really be happy. You can get into a cam for about 200 bucks.

 

A set of springs to go with a cam will be more expensive since you won't be able to get buy with lt4 as they are a relatively weak spring. I think he's more budget oriented, a full cam swap costs a lot more than 200 dollars, you have to buy gaskets, better timing chain, tuning...... If you're just gonna do a cam with mail order tuning w/o rockers you're probably looking at 600 dollars with roller rockers closer to 800 dollars.

 

the advice i have gotten on here and other boards is that magnum pushrods, self-aligning roller rockers, and LT4 springs (all had for under $450) would be worth your while if you are working towards a cam upgrade. is this ture?

 

Pushrods are probably overkill. The Comp ProMagnum rockers are nice, try Combination Motorsports for them and springs for little more than what Summit wants for just the rockers. Right now I have on 1.5 ProForm roller rockers, around 40K on them the last 26K with a ZZ3 cam and appropriate springs, when I do the ported heads and bigger cam I will likely pick different rockers but I have been very happy with them sofar especially for the $170 price. If looking to a cam in the future let that decide what ratio you pick for rockers now, 1.6 is not appropriate for all cams so sometimes 1.5 is the better choice.

 

Um, would that be me?