GM 14 Bolt Rear Swap?
11-27-2004, 09:39 AM
#2
You would be adding way too much needless weight, I owned a truck with one of those and I relly don't think it is what you want under an f-body of any sort unless it is the 4X4 variety and running 36" tires. The b-body crowd got the 8.5" 10 bolt in the LT1 cars and about the only guys breaking anything are the guys with the T56 and Torsens other than that even the 10 second 4000+lbs. cars have no real issues though some have swapped to aftermarket shafts and most have Eaton posis because the stock Auburn wears out so fast.
12-03-2004, 06:52 PM
#4
Point being? I don't think you would call it normal for your admittedly very strong bolton car to break that axle, and seeing as you are involved with the E.T. page you know just how fast a lot of cars are going on the 8.5" axle. A lot of f-bodies run 25-6" tires right, might want to look into ground clearance with that axle and short tires like that, it is a massive piece, easiest way to get a look at the shear size of the diff. is going to be look under a GM dually pickup once.
12-04-2004, 11:56 AM
#7
It is very stong like i said it is what goes under 1 ton and dually GM pickups, the thing is it is huge and heavy and you do not need anything near that size. It would be my first choice if I were building a truck with 40" Super Swampers. The axle shafts themselve are I believe 1 9/16" imagine just the weight of those. I think most of them are full floating too exept maybe some 3/4ton axles which might be semifloating, either way going to make wheel selection interesting.
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12-04-2004, 02:26 PM
#8
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well the reason I was asking about the 14 bolt if I wanna build damn near close to a bulletproof rear end/t-56/driveshaft/ect so I dont have to worry about hard launches breaking things, I hear about guys breaking 12 bolts and Ford 9", I thougt about a 9" with a spool though, I heard they hold up to some abuse.
Chris
Chris
12-04-2004, 02:39 PM
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I have numerous customers running 12 bolts and 9 inches from Moser launching off 4500 stalls and 5000 on 6 speeds havent broken any axles or gears yet...Just get all the good stuff thrown in em and you should be fine!
01-16-2008, 10:27 AM
#13
01-16-2008, 06:14 PM
#14
A 14 bolt is a far stretch. They are much heavier than a 12 bolt. (they can weigh around 400-450#) It takes 2 people just to move one.
The 6 bolt wheel 9.5" semi-floating axle variety are not much stronger than a stock Dana 60. The aftermarket S60 is already much stronger.
The 8-bolt wheel 10.5" & 11.5" ring gear ones are very strong, but heavy. You will look like a retard with 8 bolt wheels on your car and you will not adapt these to your bolt pattern as the center hub is larger than your bolt pattern.
Once you spend a ton of money narrowing one & making brackets, cutting your floor out & modifying your gas tank, you will have spent a considerable amount of money only to make your car slower & totally ruin its value.
Remember you have to accelerate all that weight, plus the weight of the actual rotating pieces will make the car feel like it lost a ton of power.
I run these in my 4x4 trucks & the increased weight made my truck noticeably slower than the 12 bolt.
The 6 bolt wheel 9.5" semi-floating axle variety are not much stronger than a stock Dana 60. The aftermarket S60 is already much stronger.
The 8-bolt wheel 10.5" & 11.5" ring gear ones are very strong, but heavy. You will look like a retard with 8 bolt wheels on your car and you will not adapt these to your bolt pattern as the center hub is larger than your bolt pattern.
Once you spend a ton of money narrowing one & making brackets, cutting your floor out & modifying your gas tank, you will have spent a considerable amount of money only to make your car slower & totally ruin its value.
Remember you have to accelerate all that weight, plus the weight of the actual rotating pieces will make the car feel like it lost a ton of power.
I run these in my 4x4 trucks & the increased weight made my truck noticeably slower than the 12 bolt.
01-17-2008, 01:30 AM
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I have one of the 6-lug 9.5" 14-bolts in my truck, and it is MASSIVE in comparison to the 8.5" 10-bolt that came out of the truck, let alone the tiny little 7.5" 10-bolt in my car.
the axles tubes are huge, the center section has humongous support ribs EVERYWHERE strength is it's name...
on another note, I can twirl a fully loaded 7.5" 10-bolt around rather easily (not something I LIKE to do, but can) the 14-bolt? yeah right, that's a 2-man job for sure, definately NOTHING I want under the *** of my car.
I'd go with an 8.5" 10-bolt and a Truetrac if I were gonna put a truck rearend in my car.
the axles tubes are huge, the center section has humongous support ribs EVERYWHERE strength is it's name...
on another note, I can twirl a fully loaded 7.5" 10-bolt around rather easily (not something I LIKE to do, but can) the 14-bolt? yeah right, that's a 2-man job for sure, definately NOTHING I want under the *** of my car.
I'd go with an 8.5" 10-bolt and a Truetrac if I were gonna put a truck rearend in my car.
01-17-2008, 08:01 AM
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If you have an automatic, you can get strengthened axles for $250/pair. That'll help out quite a bit for awhile, and I'm sure those aluminum covers that add rigidity to the gear housing wouldn't be a bad investment too. Ontop of that, a aftermarket posi carrier wouldn't be a fairly good idea as well.
