bought some 1.6 RR for my 95 LT1 and dont know how to install them. Anyone know some good techniques to intall 1.6 RR on an LT1!

Thanks

 

There are a couple of ways to do them.
1. Engine Off.
You can either rotate the engine to find TDC, or rotate the motor until both the valves open and then close. Adjust the RR to your preference. I like 1/2 turn past lash.
2. Engine running.
Get them close, then start the car. Back each one off until it clatters, you will know it, and then tighten back up until clattering goes away and turn 1/2 turn or what ever you desire.

 

what do you mean by lash?

 

Sorry about that.
Lash is when you can move the push rod up and down.
The easiest way to find it is twisting and wiggle it back and forth.
You will be able to twist it still at 0 lash, but the push rod wont have a loose feeling to it.
Once you feel it for the the first time you will know what I am talking about.

 

Do the exhaust valves when the intake opens, and just starts to close... Do the intakes when the exhaust just starts to open. This puts you on the base circle of the cam. Then do as said above. Try and move the pushrod up and down, and right when you can no longer wiggle it, go 1/2 a turn.

 

Thanks guys, i appreciate it.

 

Just so you know, the little allen-bolts inside are locknuts... Some people have trouble with the rockers loosening up because they weren't properly tightened. Whe I did my lash I tightened the last 1/4 turn or so with the locknuts already tightened (I tightened the locknuts as I turned the adjuster), so they were nice and tight together. You should check them in a few hundred miles anyway, make sure everything is where it should be.

 

sounds good , thanks RymerC

 

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html

Check this site out and scroll way down to rocker arm adjustment.

With roller rockers, it's tooooo easy.
1) ensure the set screw is out far enough that it won't hit the stud on each rocker.
2) ensure motor is on TDC (#1 piston) [if timing cover is off, the timing marks willl be at 12 o'clock on both gears, if not, you must rotate engine until intake valve opens, then closes and piston reaches TDC on that stroke]
3) you are now ready to adjust exhaust rockers on cyls 1,3,4,8...intake 1,2,5,7.
With RR's run the nut down to finger tight ( not tight, just where the the nut stops, wiggle the rocker a little then snug lightly), then rotate an additional 3/4 turn w/ wrench and lock set screw without allowing the nut to turn.
4) rotate engine 360*. Now adjust exh valves 2,5,6,7...int, 3,4,6,8 in the manner above.

The reason RR's are easy is the nut is not a ball and locknut like stamped steel rockers that have tension and is kinda hard to get the "zero lash" feeling.
Hope this helps.

 

like mentioned above, a more accurate way is to watch the valves. turn the motor over by hand and watch the valves movements. When an exhaust valve first starts to open, you set the corresponding intake valve by tightening the nut while twisting the pushrod. once you feel even the slightest tension on the pushrod, you've reached zero lash for that valve(you'll know it when you feel it). Racers generally leave the valve lash there, but some feel its not safe and proceed to turn the nut another 1/8 of a turn, twist the lock-nut down on the stud, then give another 1/8th turn on the nut that resides ontop of the trunion. WHen you see the intake valve first start to close, thats when you set the exhaust valve lash. just go through each cylinder that way and its safest and most accurate. however, do not go back through and adjust the lash again on a cylinder once youve done it once because the liffter will bleed off and it wont be set correctly. Start the motor up first(you will hear a lot of clacking for the first 30 sec to a minute while the lifters "pump-up". After a minute or so, you can go back through and adjust the ones that need minor adjusting by simply backing the rocker arm off while the motor is running. you simply back the rocker off until you hear clacking, once you do, you tighten it back down until there is no more audible clacking. At this time, tighten the rocker arm down just like you did before(1/8turn, tighen lock-nut, then tighten rocker nut down another 1/8 turn. Tightening down rocler arms to 3/4 of a turn is waaaaay to tight. ITs GM standard, but only because its a reliability issue and they want their cars going 150k miles with no problems to the drivetrain. Since these are roller rockers, they are far more efficient and work best with less tightening.

 

I have done many RR's and never had any issues with 3/4 turn.It's not based on reliability, it's on lash of about .030 on a Hyd lifter. The threads of a GM stud is approx. .065-.070 for one full turn. The 3/4 is to make up for any differentials in the thread pitch.
I don't know, maybe my 25+ yrs, and my dad's 50+ yrs of engines and building SBC's is wrong, but I have never had an issue with 3/4 turn on Hyd lifters, that's why I never have to do a running adjustment.

 

thats a good web site