383 LT1 nitrous head and cam?
383 LT1 nitrous head and cam? Ok I am going to be building me a 383 nitrous LT1 engine. I am going to get me a forged stroker kit. I plan on shooting 200-250 shot of nitrous with this, but I have read you need certain cam's and heads when using nitrous. Will the Trick Flow heads work good with my 383 or should I use AFR. Which head should I go with 190, 195, 210, etc for the 383. But I think with the AFR I will have to convert to LT4 correct? Also do I need to get a cam custom made for the nitrous with the 383 engine and whatever new head I get or is there something I can buy already made. Also what is a good compression ratio when using nitrous or does that depend on the amount of nitrous I am going to be using? Sorry for so many questions. Thanks for any help.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 362
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Head choice depends on your budget. The power is in the heads/cam combo so spend your money where it counts.
When you have an idea what you want to spend on the shortblock....double that and you'll have an idea what you'll actually spend.
It all depends on $$$....it's nice to say that you want to do this or that but when it comes down to it, unless you have a big bank roll, you aren't going to get everything you want. Hell....I had my heads and intake already ported and the cam bought and yet the car Gods found a way for me to spend an additional $1K+ to finish it up.
If you don't have the budget, I'd suggest this:
Get either a forged 355 rebuild kit from Summit and have your stock crank turned. This will be enough to handle a good sized shot and will leave you enough money to spend where it counts....those additional cubes don't help enough to justify skimping on the heads.
Piece out the parts and still go with a 355 with forged pistons and rods. Spend all that money you just saved on some AFR 190 or 195's and a good custom grind. In the end you'll still have a bottom end that can hold up to the 200 shot and you'll have a heads/cam package that will more than make up for the few extra HP you lost in the 33 cubes.
You don't have to buy a custom cam but there can be a big difference between an off the shelf grind and one suited to your flow/setup.
First thing you need to do is find out how much money you have to spend....that's the most important thing, without a good solid budget you aren't going to go anywhere.
Next....those extra cubes are good but they aren't the be all-end all....355's can and do make more HP than a 383 or 396, it's all in a setup that works well together. I like peanut butter and I like tuna fish but that doesn't mean a PB&tuna tastes delicious. A 355 with a great heads/cam setup will out perform a 383 that you dumped a ton of money into but skimped on the heads and a cam that doesn't match.
When you have an idea what you want to spend on the shortblock....double that and you'll have an idea what you'll actually spend.
It all depends on $$$....it's nice to say that you want to do this or that but when it comes down to it, unless you have a big bank roll, you aren't going to get everything you want. Hell....I had my heads and intake already ported and the cam bought and yet the car Gods found a way for me to spend an additional $1K+ to finish it up.
If you don't have the budget, I'd suggest this:
Get either a forged 355 rebuild kit from Summit and have your stock crank turned. This will be enough to handle a good sized shot and will leave you enough money to spend where it counts....those additional cubes don't help enough to justify skimping on the heads.
Piece out the parts and still go with a 355 with forged pistons and rods. Spend all that money you just saved on some AFR 190 or 195's and a good custom grind. In the end you'll still have a bottom end that can hold up to the 200 shot and you'll have a heads/cam package that will more than make up for the few extra HP you lost in the 33 cubes.
You don't have to buy a custom cam but there can be a big difference between an off the shelf grind and one suited to your flow/setup.
First thing you need to do is find out how much money you have to spend....that's the most important thing, without a good solid budget you aren't going to go anywhere.
Next....those extra cubes are good but they aren't the be all-end all....355's can and do make more HP than a 383 or 396, it's all in a setup that works well together. I like peanut butter and I like tuna fish but that doesn't mean a PB&tuna tastes delicious. A 355 with a great heads/cam setup will out perform a 383 that you dumped a ton of money into but skimped on the heads and a cam that doesn't match.
Build a completely forged 4 bolt bolt main 355 with all arp hardware and then run the le3 package. It should run 11.20's with the rest of the car setup for when it runs on nitrous, and it should do high 9's on a 200-225 shot. I'd recommend a 12 bolt or 9" and a th-400 if you plan on doing this.
Another question is that 10 grand you put into your engine with someone pulling your engine, putting it back together and installing your heads. Cause my friend and I can do all that. I just don't see how it would cost that much unless someone is doing all my installs. Am I correct on this?
I'll say **** adds up fast. After my timing chain broke I sold my 383 with heads/cam for $3500, so if you found a deal like that you could just get it and then spend about $5000 on supporting mods and then another 1500 on the whole nitrous setup and have a badass setup.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 549
Likes: 0
From: St. Peters, MO
I don't know about some of the amounts of money people are saying are needed. No doubt, he who has the most, goes the fastest, but I would think a carefully researched engine package, that was layed out before a single piece was bought could be had for right around 5-6k. The other things will add up quick though...like do you need long tubes, true duals, dyno tune time, rear end, tranny, gears, driveshaft, etc etc. That stuff will nickel and dime anyone to death.
What I see a lot of is people who buy something, start changing stuff on it without fully thinking out their plans/intentions for the car, and end up spending more money. Like my friend, who's motor is nearing completion. He had just bought a cc306 to stick in his stock bottom end, 150shot, full bolt on LT1. A week later he decides he wants something nasty. So he buys a forged 410 LT1 shortblock for 4k. Now he needs to buy a new solid cam for his new sb2 heads that are converted and a bigger n20 system for it. Doing everything twice it seems like. So my advice....think about what you can spend, then only have to buy everything once. And like the others said, a good head is better than bigger cubes.
My vote....forged 355, LE3 package, 200 shot....if properly tuned, suspended, geared and if it hooks you'll be knocking on the 10.0 doors....
What I see a lot of is people who buy something, start changing stuff on it without fully thinking out their plans/intentions for the car, and end up spending more money. Like my friend, who's motor is nearing completion. He had just bought a cc306 to stick in his stock bottom end, 150shot, full bolt on LT1. A week later he decides he wants something nasty. So he buys a forged 410 LT1 shortblock for 4k. Now he needs to buy a new solid cam for his new sb2 heads that are converted and a bigger n20 system for it. Doing everything twice it seems like. So my advice....think about what you can spend, then only have to buy everything once. And like the others said, a good head is better than bigger cubes.
My vote....forged 355, LE3 package, 200 shot....if properly tuned, suspended, geared and if it hooks you'll be knocking on the 10.0 doors....
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also ive done some research before i started building my 396 and the prices for a all forged kit from eagle didn't change from a 355,383,396 all were $1700 so why not do the extra cubes.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 549
Likes: 0
From: St. Peters, MO
Yeah, clearancing the block will cost a lot more, as will a special pan to clean those big ol rods. Also, a 355 would be easy for nitrous because of the thicker ring lands and more material left in the block. Oh and its not the power level that will make the stock crank go out....its RPMS...more rpms = more heat, more heat= eek 
Oh well, if you want huge numbers invest in the heads>>>>>SB2.2= canted valve heads, 18 gm'615' heads, or any other sbc head and convert it to reverse cooling. Get a big custom ground nitrous cam. A custom intake manifold will be needed...that would go well with your fogger kit. All this with valvetrain is easily 4K+. It just depends how far you want to go. Heads, my friend make the power, not 46 extra cubes :-)
Oh well, if you want huge numbers invest in the heads>>>>>SB2.2= canted valve heads, 18 gm'615' heads, or any other sbc head and convert it to reverse cooling. Get a big custom ground nitrous cam. A custom intake manifold will be needed...that would go well with your fogger kit. All this with valvetrain is easily 4K+. It just depends how far you want to go. Heads, my friend make the power, not 46 extra cubes :-) 
Originally Posted by GhostZ
Head choice depends on your budget. The power is in the heads/cam combo so spend your money where it counts.
When you have an idea what you want to spend on the shortblock....double that and you'll have an idea what you'll actually spend.
It all depends on $$$....it's nice to say that you want to do this or that but when it comes down to it, unless you have a big bank roll, you aren't going to get everything you want. Hell....I had my heads and intake already ported and the cam bought and yet the car Gods found a way for me to spend an additional $1K+ to finish it up.
If you don't have the budget, I'd suggest this:
Get either a forged 355 rebuild kit from Summit and have your stock crank turned. This will be enough to handle a good sized shot and will leave you enough money to spend where it counts....those additional cubes don't help enough to justify skimping on the heads.
Piece out the parts and still go with a 355 with forged pistons and rods. Spend all that money you just saved on some AFR 190 or 195's and a good custom grind. In the end you'll still have a bottom end that can hold up to the 200 shot and you'll have a heads/cam package that will more than make up for the few extra HP you lost in the 33 cubes.
You don't have to buy a custom cam but there can be a big difference between an off the shelf grind and one suited to your flow/setup.
First thing you need to do is find out how much money you have to spend....that's the most important thing, without a good solid budget you aren't going to go anywhere.
Next....those extra cubes are good but they aren't the be all-end all....355's can and do make more HP than a 383 or 396, it's all in a setup that works well together. I like peanut butter and I like tuna fish but that doesn't mean a PB&tuna tastes delicious. A 355 with a great heads/cam setup will out perform a 383 that you dumped a ton of money into but skimped on the heads and a cam that doesn't match.
When you have an idea what you want to spend on the shortblock....double that and you'll have an idea what you'll actually spend.
It all depends on $$$....it's nice to say that you want to do this or that but when it comes down to it, unless you have a big bank roll, you aren't going to get everything you want. Hell....I had my heads and intake already ported and the cam bought and yet the car Gods found a way for me to spend an additional $1K+ to finish it up.
If you don't have the budget, I'd suggest this:
Get either a forged 355 rebuild kit from Summit and have your stock crank turned. This will be enough to handle a good sized shot and will leave you enough money to spend where it counts....those additional cubes don't help enough to justify skimping on the heads.
Piece out the parts and still go with a 355 with forged pistons and rods. Spend all that money you just saved on some AFR 190 or 195's and a good custom grind. In the end you'll still have a bottom end that can hold up to the 200 shot and you'll have a heads/cam package that will more than make up for the few extra HP you lost in the 33 cubes.
You don't have to buy a custom cam but there can be a big difference between an off the shelf grind and one suited to your flow/setup.
First thing you need to do is find out how much money you have to spend....that's the most important thing, without a good solid budget you aren't going to go anywhere.
Next....those extra cubes are good but they aren't the be all-end all....355's can and do make more HP than a 383 or 396, it's all in a setup that works well together. I like peanut butter and I like tuna fish but that doesn't mean a PB&tuna tastes delicious. A 355 with a great heads/cam setup will out perform a 383 that you dumped a ton of money into but skimped on the heads and a cam that doesn't match.
i dont think i could have said it any better my self....espeically the part to double the money u have in mind.... i know exactly what u mean i planned on spending 8 on my complete motor and i ended up spending 16..and thats not a lie
Originally Posted by djm_e22
Another question is that 10 grand you put into your engine with someone pulling your engine, putting it back together and installing your heads. Cause my friend and I can do all that. I just don't see how it would cost that much unless someone is doing all my installs. Am I correct on this?
i spent 16 and did 100% of the machine and building my self....so it can happen ull see
Originally Posted by SmokedOutZ28
So a stock LT1 crank will hold a 200 shot?
ive got a 200 shot on my ss and the entire motor is stock...all it has in long tubes and 30# injectors....
Originally Posted by SmokedOutZ28
your planing with a time bomb.. how often do you spray? and is it wet or dry kit?
ive been spraying for over 2 years now..started at a 150 and is now 200...its a regular single nossle nx wet kit.... im goin for the stock long block record which is 11.0 right now my best is 11.27 at119 but it will go 10's next time at the track
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by Frans96SS
ive been spraying for over 2 years now..started at a 150 and is now 200...its a regular single nossle nx wet kit.... im goin for the stock long block record which is 11.0 right now my best is 11.27 at119 but it will go 10's next time at the track
As far as the 383 build goes, I agree that the power is in the heads and cam, but if youre gonna make the power , then the bottom end has got to support it. Im running a SCAT crank and rods, but they are not forged.....thats my biggest hang up.....and I would like to make more power, but fear breakage. Ive got a real mild cam too (LT4 hotcam), which is why im not making more power. I do not regret the extra cubes though. As someone pointed out, the price of the rotating assembly is about the same. The balancing and the clearancing will cost you the money.....but not more than 600 - 800 bucks more. For me, the extra 6-800 dollars is well worth it. As far as not making any more power from the stroker, thats bull. HP doesnt increase dramatically, but torque goes through the roof! Im making over 600 ft/lbs to the wheels on a 100 shot.....with a real mild cam. Try doing that with a 355.
If youve got the cash, go forged bottom end (coated pistons are nice for N2O), splayed 4 bolt main caps, LT4 or AFR heads (ported), cc306 cam (or wilder if its not a driver), and a 200 HP wet kit (TNT is my preference). Then, you'll need the suspension and drivetrain to actually get you down the track!
Originally Posted by N20LT4Bird
119 mph is really moving on the stock block.....but from what ive read and seen, about 500 HP is about the max it can take......seems like your pushing it beyond that. Nice work.
As far as the 383 build goes, I agree that the power is in the heads and cam, but if youre gonna make the power , then the bottom end has got to support it. Im running a SCAT crank and rods, but they are not forged.....thats my biggest hang up.....and I would like to make more power, but fear breakage. Ive got a real mild cam too (LT4 hotcam), which is why im not making more power. I do not regret the extra cubes though. As someone pointed out, the price of the rotating assembly is about the same. The balancing and the clearancing will cost you the money.....but not more than 600 - 800 bucks more. For me, the extra 6-800 dollars is well worth it. As far as not making any more power from the stroker, thats bull. HP doesnt increase dramatically, but torque goes through the roof! Im making over 600 ft/lbs to the wheels on a 100 shot.....with a real mild cam. Try doing that with a 355.
If youve got the cash, go forged bottom end (coated pistons are nice for N2O), splayed 4 bolt main caps, LT4 or AFR heads (ported), cc306 cam (or wilder if its not a driver), and a 200 HP wet kit (TNT is my preference). Then, you'll need the suspension and drivetrain to actually get you down the track!
As far as the 383 build goes, I agree that the power is in the heads and cam, but if youre gonna make the power , then the bottom end has got to support it. Im running a SCAT crank and rods, but they are not forged.....thats my biggest hang up.....and I would like to make more power, but fear breakage. Ive got a real mild cam too (LT4 hotcam), which is why im not making more power. I do not regret the extra cubes though. As someone pointed out, the price of the rotating assembly is about the same. The balancing and the clearancing will cost you the money.....but not more than 600 - 800 bucks more. For me, the extra 6-800 dollars is well worth it. As far as not making any more power from the stroker, thats bull. HP doesnt increase dramatically, but torque goes through the roof! Im making over 600 ft/lbs to the wheels on a 100 shot.....with a real mild cam. Try doing that with a 355.
If youve got the cash, go forged bottom end (coated pistons are nice for N2O), splayed 4 bolt main caps, LT4 or AFR heads (ported), cc306 cam (or wilder if its not a driver), and a 200 HP wet kit (TNT is my preference). Then, you'll need the suspension and drivetrain to actually get you down the track!
