LT1s with braided lines in their engine bay?
LT1s with braided lines in their engine bay? I am curious if anyone has converted their lines inside their engine bays to braided lines? I seem to recall someone around these boards had their LT1 decked out with real braided lines, not the covers or anything...but the real ones. So...if any of you have done this, please let me know where you got them from, and how you did it. And as always, pictures are fantastic!
Tris
Tris
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 106
Likes: 3
From: Kenosha, Wisconsin
Be prepared to spend alot of $$$$ on real braided lines. The fittings add up REALLY QUICKLY. Here are the pics of mine. I chose to do hard stainless line where ever I could because I think it looks cleaner. All I did was a short braided line from the frame to the engine and from the engine back to the tank. The fuel braided you cannot see in these pics. All the braided line that you see is for oil cooler, tranny cooler, and reverse flow lines from the back of the heads to the radiator. Just the fittings and short line needed for these was almost $200.00.
Braided line needs to be custom made. It is not that difficult as long as you have the correct tools and I prefer Earls line & Fittings (They are soooo much easier to get on). You can get them all at Jegs or Summit. You will need a hacksaw, electrical/duct tape, a vice with aluminum jaws works awesome (also get from Jegs), and plenty of bandaids for your fingertips when the metal stands stick you (hurts like hell). You also can use the aluminum wrenches Jegs sells but regular wrenches will work if you are careful.
Braided line needs to be custom made. It is not that difficult as long as you have the correct tools and I prefer Earls line & Fittings (They are soooo much easier to get on). You can get them all at Jegs or Summit. You will need a hacksaw, electrical/duct tape, a vice with aluminum jaws works awesome (also get from Jegs), and plenty of bandaids for your fingertips when the metal stands stick you (hurts like hell). You also can use the aluminum wrenches Jegs sells but regular wrenches will work if you are careful.
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
From: Blaine, MN
Originally Posted by skunkdya
Be prepared to spend alot of $$$$ on real braided lines. The fittings add up REALLY QUICKLY. Here are the pics of mine. I chose to do hard stainless line where ever I could because I think it looks cleaner. All I did was a short braided line from the frame to the engine and from the engine back to the tank. The fuel braided you cannot see in these pics. All the braided line that you see is for oil cooler, tranny cooler, and reverse flow lines from the back of the heads to the radiator. Just the fittings and short line needed for these was almost $200.00.
Braided line needs to be custom made. It is not that difficult as long as you have the correct tools and I prefer Earls line & Fittings (They are soooo much easier to get on). You can get them all at Jegs or Summit. You will need a hacksaw, electrical/duct tape, a vice with aluminum jaws works awesome (also get from Jegs), and plenty of bandaids for your fingertips when the metal stands stick you (hurts like hell). You also can use the aluminum wrenches Jegs sells but regular wrenches will work if you are careful.
Braided line needs to be custom made. It is not that difficult as long as you have the correct tools and I prefer Earls line & Fittings (They are soooo much easier to get on). You can get them all at Jegs or Summit. You will need a hacksaw, electrical/duct tape, a vice with aluminum jaws works awesome (also get from Jegs), and plenty of bandaids for your fingertips when the metal stands stick you (hurts like hell). You also can use the aluminum wrenches Jegs sells but regular wrenches will work if you are careful.
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Originally Posted by skunkdya
1993 used speed density, not MAF
What are you running in place of your opti? Man that's a nice bay, you have any more pics? Your block looks like it sits further back but I know that's because of the radiator. Any reason for doing it the way you did? Man I thought my stuff was together you guys are putting a hurting on me! LOL!
Nice job on the bay.
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 106
Likes: 3
From: Kenosha, Wisconsin
The opti is stock. Actually the entire engine is bone stock. I don't even have an airfoil. All that is different is the headers, exhaust, air cleaner, plugs & wires. THAT'S IT!
The reason why it looks so different is cause I removed almost every single thing that could be and I redid all the wiring from headlight to tailight and ran it through the framerails instead of the engine bay. I smoothed all the holes and even filled the heater core hole instead of just putting a plate over it. I put the radiator sraight up/down cause I kinda wanted to show off the polished radiator and it actually improved cooling (never above 130 degrees on the freeway) and never ever above 200 anywhere.
I did it this way to do something different than anyone else out there is doing. I read alot of street rod magazines and went to Goodguys and NSRA shows to get ideas. I gave up on going fast with the LT1. I am happy with the 12.2 @ 120 that I did with a 75 shot. I know it had more cause my 60' was 2.2. Yes, that is a stock motor time, I have no clue what I did to get that MPH. That time was run 2 years ago before I cleaned it up and got new rims and some misc other stuff. Should be a tad faster now if I put the 75 shot back on.
The reason why it looks so different is cause I removed almost every single thing that could be and I redid all the wiring from headlight to tailight and ran it through the framerails instead of the engine bay. I smoothed all the holes and even filled the heater core hole instead of just putting a plate over it. I put the radiator sraight up/down cause I kinda wanted to show off the polished radiator and it actually improved cooling (never above 130 degrees on the freeway) and never ever above 200 anywhere.
I did it this way to do something different than anyone else out there is doing. I read alot of street rod magazines and went to Goodguys and NSRA shows to get ideas. I gave up on going fast with the LT1. I am happy with the 12.2 @ 120 that I did with a 75 shot. I know it had more cause my 60' was 2.2. Yes, that is a stock motor time, I have no clue what I did to get that MPH. That time was run 2 years ago before I cleaned it up and got new rims and some misc other stuff. Should be a tad faster now if I put the 75 shot back on.
skunk: inspirational!
I am doing the bolt on thing right now and finding ways to loose the weight and be different is high on my list.
We will be going 7.9s with just weight reduction and cooler air, sig tells the story!
If it is a stock motor, why all the fuel cell and all that?
Still have A/C or is that a trans cooler set up on the front with the hard lines?
Thanks for the openess!
I am doing the bolt on thing right now and finding ways to loose the weight and be different is high on my list.
We will be going 7.9s with just weight reduction and cooler air, sig tells the story!
If it is a stock motor, why all the fuel cell and all that?
Still have A/C or is that a trans cooler set up on the front with the hard lines?
Thanks for the openess!
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 106
Likes: 3
From: Kenosha, Wisconsin
Fuel cell for 2 reasons - #1 540 or 572ci in the future, #2 cause ever since the pro street days of the late 80's where everyone had them, I always wanted one. For some reason it feels kinda cool to have to fill a fuel cell instead of a gas tank. Even if I am posin a little bit. Maybe its just me.
No AC. That is a large oil cooler with the big lines going in it and a tranny cooler behind it with the small lines in it. You can't see the tranny cooler to well.
No AC. That is a large oil cooler with the big lines going in it and a tranny cooler behind it with the small lines in it. You can't see the tranny cooler to well.
Originally Posted by skunkdya
Fuel cell for 2 reasons - #1 540 or 572ci in the future, #2 cause ever since the pro street days of the late 80's where everyone had them, I always wanted one. For some reason it feels kinda cool to have to fill a fuel cell instead of a gas tank. Even if I am posin a little bit. Maybe its just me.
No AC. That is a large oil cooler with the big lines going in it and a tranny cooler behind it with the small lines in it. You can't see the tranny cooler to well.
No AC. That is a large oil cooler with the big lines going in it and a tranny cooler behind it with the small lines in it. You can't see the tranny cooler to well.
Originally Posted by skunkdya
Fuel cell for 2 reasons - #1 540 or 572ci in the future, #2 cause ever since the pro street days of the late 80's where everyone had them, I always wanted one. For some reason it feels kinda cool to have to fill a fuel cell instead of a gas tank. Even if I am posin a little bit. Maybe its just me.
No AC. That is a large oil cooler with the big lines going in it and a tranny cooler behind it with the small lines in it. You can't see the tranny cooler to well.
No AC. That is a large oil cooler with the big lines going in it and a tranny cooler behind it with the small lines in it. You can't see the tranny cooler to well.
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 106
Likes: 3
From: Kenosha, Wisconsin
There is a remote filter adapter kit that you can buy from Jegs. You put this addapter plate in the place of the stock filter on the engine. There are 2 -10 fittings that come off of this (1 supply, 1 return) that you plumb from that to the remote filter (also from Jegs) and then go from the filter to the cooler (I think mine is the B&M race version, also from Jegs) and then back to the filter adapter on the engine. The remote filters are really nice, you just have to find a place to put them.
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 658
Likes: 0
From: That Southern Fried Space City
Originally Posted by skunkdya
There is a remote filter adapter kit that you can buy from Jegs. You put this addapter plate in the place of the stock filter on the engine. There are 2 -10 fittings that come off of this (1 supply, 1 return) that you plumb from that to the remote filter (also from Jegs) and then go from the filter to the cooler (I think mine is the B&M race version, also from Jegs) and then back to the filter adapter on the engine. The remote filters are really nice, you just have to find a place to put them.
Originally Posted by skunkdya
There is a remote filter adapter kit that you can buy from Jegs. You put this addapter plate in the place of the stock filter on the engine. There are 2 -10 fittings that come off of this (1 supply, 1 return) that you plumb from that to the remote filter (also from Jegs) and then go from the filter to the cooler (I think mine is the B&M race version, also from Jegs) and then back to the filter adapter on the engine. The remote filters are really nice, you just have to find a place to put them.
