Opinions on LTCC?
Opinions on LTCC? Well when I get back from kuwait I want to straighten and finish my race car, try and get 10s NA out of it. One of the things is its got a slight misfire at 5,500 that gets BAD at 6,000 and up.. and its prolly killin at LEAST .1 and a mph I replaced everything in my entire igntion system at least twice and nothings fixed it.
So im thinking maybe an LTCC would be a solution?
also has anyone run the new MSD LS coils with one?
what other options do I have.
I used to think I had valve float issues, but now I have a whole new valve train thats damn bullet proof, with some serious springs and Ti retainers, the whole 9 yards, most of the guys are saying it dont sound like valve float sounds like ignition.
So im thinking maybe an LTCC would be a solution?
also has anyone run the new MSD LS coils with one?
what other options do I have.
I used to think I had valve float issues, but now I have a whole new valve train thats damn bullet proof, with some serious springs and Ti retainers, the whole 9 yards, most of the guys are saying it dont sound like valve float sounds like ignition.
I ran it on my other car but I didnt have any ignition problems. I just liked the idea and tried it out. I really liked the 2 step or nitrous retard settings it had.
As for the coils, MSDs are like $70/each, you can pick up a whole set used for $100 from this site if you keep your eyes open for them.
Will this solve your problem, dont know, what are your plugs and the gaps in them, what fuel are you running? Wrong plug gaps and the spark is blown out and wrong octane will cause problems too. I have been thru both scenarios....
As for the coils, MSDs are like $70/each, you can pick up a whole set used for $100 from this site if you keep your eyes open for them.
Will this solve your problem, dont know, what are your plugs and the gaps in them, what fuel are you running? Wrong plug gaps and the spark is blown out and wrong octane will cause problems too. I have been thru both scenarios....
When im not planning on running the juice (which im not touching till im sure the car is running right) I run premium pump gas only, even though I got 11.5:1 it doesnt detonate or nothing. I also run Autolite A6 (I beleive its called A6) Std. Copper plug with a narrow .035 gap.
Also a funny thing that can maybe be related to my problem, not sure, is I bought a new MSD6AL a while ago, and used their install harness( mess up proof) and the car wouldnt run AT ALL!, so I sent the stuff back to MSD for testing, they said everything was good, and put it back on my car with the same result, put it back to stock and it ran again, its like the signal from my wiring harness to Trigger the coil (that wire gets run to the MSD) wasnt grounding good enough for the msd, but it works good enough to operate my MSD blaster 2 coil.
Also a funny thing that can maybe be related to my problem, not sure, is I bought a new MSD6AL a while ago, and used their install harness( mess up proof) and the car wouldnt run AT ALL!, so I sent the stuff back to MSD for testing, they said everything was good, and put it back on my car with the same result, put it back to stock and it ran again, its like the signal from my wiring harness to Trigger the coil (that wire gets run to the MSD) wasnt grounding good enough for the msd, but it works good enough to operate my MSD blaster 2 coil.
Last edited by z28boysteve; Jun 24, 2005 at 09:49 AM.
.035 is tight for N/A but my other car ran it's best on the Autolite 104s at that gap.
I always ran premium but must have got a whole tank of bad gas b/c I could floor it and it felt sluggish and then go to 75% throttle, and it was like hitting the juice, it took me several tanks to get it to do better.
Check plug wires, make sure they are perfect, no cracks or slight burns.
I just am not sure the LTCC set up will cure the problem but it might if the opti is a little wacked....
I mention my other car: 94 Z28 355 LT4 H/I/HOT cam TH350/3.73,suspension NA went 11.96@112 and on NX100 it went 11.17@119.5, sure wish I had that car back, it would have went 10s on a 100 shot...
I always ran premium but must have got a whole tank of bad gas b/c I could floor it and it felt sluggish and then go to 75% throttle, and it was like hitting the juice, it took me several tanks to get it to do better.
Check plug wires, make sure they are perfect, no cracks or slight burns.
I just am not sure the LTCC set up will cure the problem but it might if the opti is a little wacked....
I mention my other car: 94 Z28 355 LT4 H/I/HOT cam TH350/3.73,suspension NA went 11.96@112 and on NX100 it went 11.17@119.5, sure wish I had that car back, it would have went 10s on a 100 shot...
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Texas
I really think that your problems are in your plug gap. I know that yor PCM is set up for a gap of .050. When your RPM go up your timimg is off because of the shorten gap. I tried gapping my plugs @ .035 and the same problem that your having was happening to me...
Call me crazy but?
why would plug gap affect ignition timing?
and if it actually did throw timing off a bit why would it misfire?
The pcm says fire the coil, the coil fires, it goes into the cap, out the rotor, out the cap, into the wire, into the plug, all at the speed of light. How would gap make the pcm tell the coil to fire any sooner or later?
dont get me wrong ill try the factory gap on the copper plugs because its free, and on my car Very easy (no power accessories in the way + headers) but im not gonna get my hopes to high.
why would plug gap affect ignition timing?
and if it actually did throw timing off a bit why would it misfire?
The pcm says fire the coil, the coil fires, it goes into the cap, out the rotor, out the cap, into the wire, into the plug, all at the speed of light. How would gap make the pcm tell the coil to fire any sooner or later?
dont get me wrong ill try the factory gap on the copper plugs because its free, and on my car Very easy (no power accessories in the way + headers) but im not gonna get my hopes to high.
I was just thinking, I did remove ALL my belt driven accessories from my car car to reduce some nose weight. and make spark plug changes fast. 
Anyway, I tossed the alternator too, maybe if i put it back on using a relocation kit to the bottom drivers side, it would help out my ignition problem?
Anyway, I tossed the alternator too, maybe if i put it back on using a relocation kit to the bottom drivers side, it would help out my ignition problem?
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Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
I think you just found your problem.
The battery by itself doesn't put out enough current and voltage to drive the fuel pump and ignition reliably at high RPM. Put the alternator back on and most if not all your problems should disappear.
Why can't you put the alternator in the stock position??? If it's because you don't want to run AC and PS then make a plate with 2 idler pulleys to replace them and use studs to attach it to the stock accessory bracket, this is what I did in my 240Z, if you want I can post a picture to show you how.
BTW: PLUG GAP HAS NO AFFECT ON TIMING, but it can cause ignition problems.
ZcarGuy
The battery by itself doesn't put out enough current and voltage to drive the fuel pump and ignition reliably at high RPM. Put the alternator back on and most if not all your problems should disappear.
Why can't you put the alternator in the stock position??? If it's because you don't want to run AC and PS then make a plate with 2 idler pulleys to replace them and use studs to attach it to the stock accessory bracket, this is what I did in my 240Z, if you want I can post a picture to show you how.
BTW: PLUG GAP HAS NO AFFECT ON TIMING, but it can cause ignition problems.
ZcarGuy
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Verdad Gallardo I also dont want all that mess pullies and ****, just wanna put alternator down low on drivers side, I had it there before I built my motor just for the hell of it I built my own bracket and all, but threw it out thinking id never need it..... well oops lol
