Too high of a stall!!
07-23-2005, 10:43 AM
#22
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I went with the Yank 3000 stall for my car, pretty much stock internals and it hauls ***. I'm very impressed with it, my friends were trying to convince me to go with a 3200, or a 3600 but I didn't think that was a good idea. I'm happy with it so far. 
07-26-2005, 08:31 PM
#23
Originally Posted by 94strokedz
I learned a valuable lesson yesterday. My car had a 3400-3800 precision industries vigilante convertor up until yesterday. The car would absolutely kill just about anything in 1st gear, but 2nd gear was not so impressive, and 3rd was better than 2nd, but not much. I have had some lockup issues with this convertor, so I took it to my trans guy yesterday. His response was "You a**, I've been trying to tell you that you have too much stall." He talked me into a 2200-2300 precision industriess convertor, and holy sh**, 2nd and 3rd are amazingly strong. 1st is slightly slower, but then again in all actuality its not, because all I did before was roast my 295's through the whole gear. The car now comes out of the hole with the tires in the air, and when it bangs second, their right back off of the ground, and going into 3rd has never been firmer. The car went from being a rocket in 1st and not as much in 2nd and 3rd, to being a little more controllable in 1st, and having absolutely endless power all the way to fourth gear. So I guess what I'm getting at, is don't make the same mistake that I did and go for the biggest stall you can find, do your research and get the right stall for your setup. I should have some numbers for ya from the strip, and I'll post the improved times on here after I run it.
07-27-2005, 11:02 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
well talk to a torque converter company IF you desire a custom stall. I mean ball parking it with your car, no more than a 2,800 rpm rated stall. But again talk to a manufacture and say these are your mods, this is the rear gear and this is the intended purpous of the car. I mean a track car wouldnt require a lock up converter where as a street car will greatly benefit from it.
custom stall can cost upwards of 500-800$
custom stall can cost upwards of 500-800$
Originally had 3000 stall vigilante then backed it to 2400 stall. I absolutely loved the improvement... I know it does not make sense from a powerband analysis but the car is far more driveable off first and will just blow the tires off in a 3/2 downshift... I am street driven so know the issues on the track are different but I can agree that
sometimes bigger is not better!
regards
Gary 9T4Z
07-27-2005, 11:18 AM
#25
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Originally Posted by 94strokedz
I learned a valuable lesson yesterday. My car had a 3400-3800 precision industries vigilante convertor up until yesterday. The car would absolutely kill just about anything in 1st gear, but 2nd gear was not so impressive, and 3rd was better than 2nd, but not much. I have had some lockup issues with this convertor, so I took it to my trans guy yesterday. His response was "You a**, I've been trying to tell you that you have too much stall." He talked me into a 2200-2300 precision industriess convertor, and holy sh**, 2nd and 3rd are amazingly strong. 1st is slightly slower, but then again in all actuality its not, because all I did before was roast my 295's through the whole gear. The car now comes out of the hole with the tires in the air, and when it bangs second, their right back off of the ground, and going into 3rd has never been firmer. The car went from being a rocket in 1st and not as much in 2nd and 3rd, to being a little more controllable in 1st, and having absolutely endless power all the way to fourth gear. So I guess what I'm getting at, is don't make the same mistake that I did and go for the biggest stall you can find, do your research and get the right stall for your setup. I should have some numbers for ya from the strip, and I'll post the improved times on here after I run it.
07-27-2005, 01:06 PM
#26
i have modded a few cars I have owned and been apart of the process with other people's particular rides. One thing I have come to the conclusion is that the tq converter and rear gear are one of the last things to do to the combo. Match it to your requirements.
07-27-2005, 02:35 PM
#27
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I'll agree that bigger isn't always better, but using a small stall with a decent sized cam, whether it's in a 383 or not, is going to have you launching with about 1/2 the available torque. I can't see that as being better in anyone's book...
Properly sizing something goes both ways - don't go too small either. It's fine if you like the drivability of the smaller stall or you're using a small stall to band-aid suspension/traction problems, but don't make it out like it's a performance benefit.
Properly sizing something goes both ways - don't go too small either. It's fine if you like the drivability of the smaller stall or you're using a small stall to band-aid suspension/traction problems, but don't make it out like it's a performance benefit.
Last edited by pigpen; 07-28-2005 at 09:00 AM.
07-31-2005, 03:38 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by Quickshotkimber
Please forgive me if I am wrong, but there is no way that I am believing that you are pulling the wheels when you shift into 2nd. I installed a vig 3600 and was cutting 1.51 all day with a 3.73 gear. Each car responds differently. I have around a 4000 stall now and drive it everywhere. Lots of variables. Things like weight, gear, tq curve, can really loosen a stall up.
07-31-2005, 05:09 PM
#29
what u gained in MPH from the lower RPM stall, you also lost ET, especially in your 60'. I wouldnt be surprised to see the car run a slower ET, but with more MPH. Trust me, I have already done this. Went from a 3000 stall, back to stock (was gonna sell car), and altho i never got a timeslip with the 3K, i was blowing away 12.30-12.50 cars with ease (at the track, when our timing system was being redone, hence no timeslips) not that i have the stock `verter back, she is pulling hella MPH, with a horrid ET.
u mentioned your LT1 comes off the line harder than LS1s....but they catch u up top.......of course, LT1s are notorious for having more low end torque compared to the LS1, giving the LT1 the jump.....but with the LS1 still making power/torque higher in the RPM range than the LT1 even dreamed to go....its more than feasible to see why an LS1 catches you. I dont think that has anything to do with your verter.
and a hard shift isnt always a good shift....having a converter that will give u better shift extensions and keep the rpms up after a shift, and in turn keeping the torque coming, is what makes a car move.....remeber torque wins races, horsepower sells cars!
and btw, i wanna see a vid of u pulling the wheels in 2nd...not saying i dont believe you, or that im throwing the BS flag, but it does seem a little far fetched. The last couple of car i saw pull the wheels in 2nd were all M6s, making some crazy power (taner's 399ci solid roller, and cliff gilson's 396; the black WS6 from SLP C.A.D. at Texas Motorplex in 02....and he threw down 707/805 on the 150 shot)
u mentioned your LT1 comes off the line harder than LS1s....but they catch u up top.......of course, LT1s are notorious for having more low end torque compared to the LS1, giving the LT1 the jump.....but with the LS1 still making power/torque higher in the RPM range than the LT1 even dreamed to go....its more than feasible to see why an LS1 catches you. I dont think that has anything to do with your verter.
and a hard shift isnt always a good shift....having a converter that will give u better shift extensions and keep the rpms up after a shift, and in turn keeping the torque coming, is what makes a car move.....remeber torque wins races, horsepower sells cars!
and btw, i wanna see a vid of u pulling the wheels in 2nd...not saying i dont believe you, or that im throwing the BS flag, but it does seem a little far fetched. The last couple of car i saw pull the wheels in 2nd were all M6s, making some crazy power (taner's 399ci solid roller, and cliff gilson's 396; the black WS6 from SLP C.A.D. at Texas Motorplex in 02....and he threw down 707/805 on the 150 shot)
08-01-2005, 09:16 PM
#30
[QUOTE=94strokedz]Oh yahh, it easily gets the tires going into second. I have seen it when I let a buddy drive the car. Pulls the tires 3-5 inches out of the hole, sets them down half way through first, then, assuming it hooks up, pulls them back up about 2-4 inches as it grabs second.
Sorry man, but I'd have to see it to believe it.
Sorry man, but I'd have to see it to believe it.
08-02-2005, 09:35 AM
#31
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Sounds good, I'll get on that video for you. I've seen it with my own eyes, and 4 or 5 of my buddies have also. I'll let the camera see it as soon as I get a chance, and I'll even bolt on the stickies to be sure that it happens. This is gonna be fun!!!
08-02-2005, 11:53 PM
#32
Originally Posted by 94strokedz
and I'll even bolt on the stickies to be sure that it happens. This is gonna be fun!!!
What kind of suspension set up do you have?
08-03-2005, 12:15 PM
#33
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bone stock suspension other than a hotchkis panhard bar, urethane bushings everywhere, and a removed front swaybar for better weight transfer. Keep in mind my street tires aren't exactly small, their 295's...
