The LT1 That Could

iTrader: (3)

isn't a true, with 4.10s in an auto and anything smaller than a 28" tall tire, you will shift into OD??

just wondering.

quick93transam

now that makes sence. i have never heard of that variance before but i can see GM doing that.

brandboZ28

iTrader: (2)

With 4.10's, a 26" ET Street, and a 6500rpm redline, Im flying through the traps at about 6100-6200rpm in 3rd.....right on the money

urbanhunter44

iTrader: (1)

The 3.23/no limiter thing has to do with a certain option. I forget the RPO code. But with the option you received the 155 speedo, Z-rated tires and no governer. It did NOT affect your gears, as I have seen 2.73 cars with this option.

Yeah I expect my rear to die soon enough. I'm hoping to hit mid 1.7s on the 10 bolt before I have to replace it.

Edit: Gears come tommorow yay!

IRONBULL

Nice.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

I am a firm beleiver that rear end gear ratio and torque converter/launch rpm is the last thing to consider because that will determine your optinium launch and as you cross the finish line that your in the peak of your gear. If you have to dump to 4th because you run out of rpm OR that you dropped alot of hp because you reached beyond the limit of the combonation.

i.e. you make 300 hp at 4000 rpms and spining up to 6400 puts you persay 200 hp, then going to the next gear (if you can) may put you at a higher number as you cross the traps.

So look at the dyno sheets, if you making near peak power (+/- 15 hp) then stay in that gear. In most cases its 3rd gear in auto and 4th in t-56 6 speeds.

just my experience

tekprodave

I can tell you from first hand experience that the Nitto DR's will not be enough. They are no better than a good street tire. I haven't tried the new MT drag radials. They might work in your case. I run ET streets and still have traction issues. But my car is a full bolton LT1 with weight reduction. I've cut several 1.62X 60-ft times on the stock 10-bolt in my A4 car with a 3k stall TC that hits like a ton of bricks. But this will not work for you M6 guys that think you can put in a new clutch and dump it at 6K RPM.

brandboZ28

iTrader: (2)

I agree. Im getting ready to try out a pair of "broken in" MT drag radials but my Nitto's were only good for a mid -high 1.7 60'. My ET Streets hook good when I get the HOT!!! Hopefully I have the same luck with the ET radials. Oh, the ET Streets I have are 26x11.5x16. My Nittos were 275/50/15 as are the MT radials.

urbanhunter44

iTrader: (1)

I have been hearing alot of things about the new MT tires. has anyone tried these yet on the street?

Green95Z28

Okay... So what gears do I have then? Gear selector reads OD, D, 2.... But I can still shift down into first, even though it doesn't say it. I assume that means I have the 2.73's... Should have seen the look on my face when I found out it actually shifted down into first. Never hit a rev limiter that hard in my life!

brandboZ28

iTrader: (2)

Youre gonna have to go to the RPO codes for that one. Theyre in the door jam and the glove box. GU2=2.73 and GU5=3.23.

builts10

thats nice. ls1 all the way

Camaro 0wner

2MuchNos93LT1

WhiteSSP

Dont forget that gears multiply the amount of torque going to the rear wheels, so 200hp with 4.10's through a 1.0 direct drive would in essence be "820hp" spinning the rear tires, whereas 200hp with 3.73's through a 1.0 direct drive gear (3rd gear in auto's, 4th in manuals) would only be "746whp" at that same RPM. Of course, if you have to shift into 4th it wont help you. Basically, ideally, you want your gear to "run out" as you cross the traps in your direct drive gear.

scrmnws6

iTrader: (7)

I have an M6 with 4.10's and I finished the 1/4 while staying in 4th gear, but the needle was buried in the redline. It was the last run of the night so I really didnt care what happened. On my other runs, I did shift into 5th. My launch/traction issues played a big role in this.

flatlander757

Just to clear it up...

if your gearbox has an optional "1" to shift into... you have the 3.23 posi rear

if it does not and the lowest it goes is "2", then you have the 2.73 open rear end(one wheeled wonders ) But as someone above found out... it will let you shift into first if you force it.

The speedo thing is like this... if you ordered Z rated tires, then you got a 150mph speedo and I think a 155 or so speed limiter(either that or the engine just runs out of umph). If not, then you got a 115 speedo and I'm unsure of how high up the limiter is set, but I'd imagine between 115 and 120.



NOW:
On another forum(not sure if I'm allowed to mention which?), there is a post that came to the conclusion that a stall converter has better effect than gears do... They help, but I think that 4.10s would be overkill... 3.73s should do fine... I'm happy with 3.23s.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

No, what that means is that someone cut off the little plastic nub that prevents the auto from going into first. I did that, and I love being able to select first gear, even though the indicator only shows second. But my 97 Formula came with the 2.73 gear (now has a 3.42, which I really like). BTW, it is a posi and leaves 2 lines of rubber where ever it may go; and the speedo goes to 155. Perhaps a difference in the years?

bichin95redta

Even though the A4 is an over-driven transmission, I personally would not go higher (numerically) than a 3:73 rear-end. The 4L60e is a wide ratio tranny...you get a good pull out of 1st, but it's all downhill after that, there is such a wide ratio gap between gears. I don't really think you'd realize an earth-shattering difference between 4:11's and 3:73's, performance-wise, but I do think you'd be able to cruise at lower rpm in OD, thus saving gas. Also, around town, my '95 A4 would "ask for" OD at around 40-45mph with the 3:73's. I always left it in 3rd driving around town, and I could just imagine screaming along at hi rpm in 3rd with 4:11's out back.

I have an M6 '02 LS1. This gives me TWO over-driven gears. Still, no matter how insane I build my engine, my car will NEVER see a numerically higher rear-end ratio than a 3:73. It's a street car. Now, if I were trailering it around from drag strip to drag strip, sure, I'd probably go higher...maybe to 4:88...but the car would be travelling one quarter of a mile at a time, so who cares? Back and forth to work, to and from the store, cruisin' around town...that's a completely different ball game.

Quite frankly, I'm perfectly happy with the 3:42's I have now. Cruisin' to and from work on the interstate, with the cruise control set at 62 MPH in 6th gear, I'm turnin' around 1100 rpm. Low wear and tear, good mileage, respectable cruising range....what more could I ask for? At a light, with a 'Stang in the next lane, the M6 turns my ride into a different animal.

The new-generation 5 and 6 speed automatic overdrive trannys are the way to go. You have enough cogs to allow for closer gear ratios, PLUS the advantage of more than one over-driven ratio. With a well thought out and designed 6-speed automatic overdrive, the need for numerically higher rear-end ratios isn't as urgent.

Mac3188

Alright catch this business. My speedo goes to 110 right. I also have D, 3, 2. Its got like a phantom 1st gear. If you pull the shifter a little back it locks into what seems to be a first gear, and I can shift out of it into 2nd, and 3rd. I figured it didnt have too much gear in it cause I was cruising at 50 damn near below 1000 R's. I've had friends with LS1's, although the pull and accel is faster, it's not all that much drastic. I'm confused as all hell now. Do I need some freakin gears and a new gauge cluster now!?