I was wandering if Lt1 rods are specific to that block or can I use any 5.700 rod

 

technically speaking, any 5.700 rod with the same size wrist pin diameter, and crank journal size would fit.

 

Interchangable a long ways back BUT the LT1 used some of the best factory rods ever put in a smallblock at least pre-LSx motors. The early LT1s used the musclecar era forged "pink" rods until they switched to the stonger new powdered metal variety which GM sells as good to 450hp but most knowledgable LT1 guys say they haven't seen them be the weak link till more like 600hp.

 

Summt now sells LT1 PM rods and advertises them for 500 hp.

 

ya i saw the ones on summit . I dont know if it would be wise to just have the ones out of my motor checked and reuse them. but there is 100k on them!!

 

A lot of builder prefer used rods because you know any internal flaws would have showed up. Then again you could get new Scat I-beam rods for little more than the stockers would cost to recondition.

I think people are far too quick to rebuild though engines do not wear like they did in years past.

 

Right, the introduction of overdrive turns them a lot less so they don't wear as fast. Also better oiling systems and roller lifters cut down on wear too. My dad said his 67 Chevelle SS blew up on him once and he tore it down to find some of the lobes had worn down on the cam and blew one of his cylinders out.

 

The better AFR control of the injection means less washdown of the oil film in the cylinders and longer wear with less abuse on the oil that is also much better than before, then there is the better materials and machining. The OD is just a small part of why engines last like they do today.