Recipe for the ultimate LT1 sleeper?
It went on to quote Teddy Roosevelt on the "Speak softly and carry a big stick" and whatnot.
The article really captured my interest and I think I may go after that goal. Not so much to surprise people at stoplights(it will be tempting, but I'm going to stop street racing, I got caught once and won't have my license back until Feb, so I think I've learned my lesson), but more so to show up at the local car meet every week or so looking and sounding completely stock until I pop the hood and present a dyno graph and/or timeslips.
I'd say these are my ultimate goals:
-Appear completely stock
-Sound damn near stock(no lope in the cam, no !cats, etc etc)
-Run high 12s on street tires, low 12s on DRs
-Let it be nitrous-friendly to spray some extra fun
-Remain usable as a daily driver
What would you guys suggest to achieve these goals? I'm thinking to remain as streetable and quiet as possible, invest most of the money into suspension and drivetrain and possibly weight reduction.
Something along the lines of this:
-3.73s(I have an auto)
-Stall converter in the 2800 range I'd guess, but I would have to consult whoever grinds a cam for the final decision
-Shift kit
-Adjustable torque arm, panhard rod, shocks, springs(but retain stock ride height!), LCAs.
-New K-member to drop about 40lbs from the front
-Mickey Thompson DRs(I've heard they stick like glue
)-Ported heads and an "old man cam" ... I've heard that tons of lift and less duration helps to shut up the lope?
-Lightweight battery or move a regular battery to the rear
-E-WP
-Midlength headers
-Whatever cats... lol
-The quietest freakin catback available, I've heard that the Dynomax catbacks are extremely quiet
-Electric cutout
for the surprise factor right before a run-Nitrous. I'm thinking that I'll wait to do this until I have the engine rebuild with all forged internals(or at least pistons I suppose) to handle something insane like a 200 or more shot. If I use the cheater gas, I want it to at least hit 10s, but in my mind it would bad-*** to hit the single digits
With forged internals, upgraded fuel pump, window switch, bottle heater, N20 pressure gauge, fuel pressure gauge, bottle heater, direct port kit(or possibly wet, not sure what the limiting factor would be).
The lines won't need to be hidden, I'd like to just surprise whoever is looking at my car when I pop the hood. That's where it counts
I'm thinking that if this is too much power for a 245 wide tire, maybe I could even go so far as to send out the rear rims to get widened to say 9.5"
?What do you guys think?
Anyone with a sleeper car themselves please chime in!
I need to know if this is a pipe dream or if forced induction would be the only feasible way of doing this.
I don't want a sleeper for racing purposes... mainly to stay humble and surprise people at car shows.
Maybe making it look good and just run 12s would be smarter... girls don't care how fast your car is, only how well it looks
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I think I will try to just save up to get the basic bolt ons(LTs, y pipe, already have an e-cutout, maybe stall, possibly gears, shiftkit, CAI, etc) and then just rebuild an 8.5 or 9.0:1 fully forged shortblock, throw some LE1 or LE2 heads and cam package on there, then save for forced induction?
I think that is the only way I will really be happy. Streetable 600whp would be quite bitchin
Especially if it looks bone stock
I think I will try to just save up to get the basic bolt ons(LTs, y pipe, already have an e-cutout, maybe stall, possibly gears, shiftkit, CAI, etc) and then just rebuild an 8.5 or 9.0:1 fully forged shortblock, throw some LE1 or LE2 heads and cam package on there, then save for forced induction?
I think that is the only way I will really be happy. Streetable 600whp would be quite bitchin
Especially if it looks bone stock

As far as your combo goes, if you want a "sleeper" setup, you can go with the "cadillac" cam and some AFR 220s and a 150 of the squeeze..Nitrous doesn't make a sound..Unless you have a backfire..LOL Go with a 3000 or larger stall and spray out the whole and you should be very competitive with the locals.
My new hero Tom Nelson (Nelson Racing Engines) built it. That dude knows what he is doing. It was a 1994 Calloway Vette, which now has a Vortech blown Nelson Racing Engines 383" LT4 in it. Idles dead smooth @ 800 rpm, drives nice, through quite Calloway exhaust, w/two Cats. It made an easy 703 SAE rwhp and 620 ft lbs torque on the dyno at L.A.P.D. Dyno. Damn near undrivable above 75% throttle angle. Real hard on tires. <G> Runs on California 91 octane, which we all know is crap. The car is going to Arlington, Texas.
Forgot how bad the traffic and smog is in the L.A. area. Five lane freeways (each way) going 20 mph. Had sinus drainage for three days. Just loved it.
As far as your combo goes, if you want a "sleeper" setup, you can go with the "cadillac" cam and some AFR 220s and a 150 of the squeeze..Nitrous doesn't make a sound..Unless you have a backfire..LOL Go with a 3000 or larger stall and spray out the whole and you should be very competitive with the locals.

I know that wet shot nitrous kits are limited by head flow... but do direct port kits suffer from the same thing? I think it would be cool to have a purpose built nitrous motor for something like a 2 stage 100 shot at 3000 rpms and another 125 or 150 shot at 4000 or 4500 rpms(225-250 total).
Not to mention it could be quite fun messing around with the purge nozzles
LT14LIFE JT: are you a member of www.tidewaterracing.com ??? That's the local hot musclecar board.
You should join. And if you're from the seven city's, you need to get on www.sevencityracing.com
http://www.regionofdoomforum.com/Upl...igbadbuick.bmp
http://www.tamparacing.com/photopost.../17021sig1.jpg
That car has a nitrous heads and cam 350cid LT1 with a TH350 and highway gears. Just think of how much of a sleeper that would be with a 408cid stroker motor and a small cam with good heads.

http://gmhightechperformance.com/fea...9gmhtp_byebye/
380-402 Stroker with a 70-76mm Turbo
Cam will be small and not give away any tell tail sign's of what is about to be laid out for all to see

Add a Electric cut out on a WOT switch and your job is done

Not that I have thought about this much or have plans to replace the 12:1CR 6.2L LT1 I fired off tonight



