SB2.2 progrees update, pics..fuel cell, NX,
01-04-2006 | 08:35 PM
#1
SB2.2 progrees update, pics..fuel cell, NX, Gettin' there. We decided the factory tank had to go so here's the initial fuel cell fit at the chassis shop along with the sheetmetal center console and some pics of the direct port STD NX setup.
Center console drivers side with upper template in place...
Center console passengers side with upper template in place...
Fuel Cell...
NX Direct port...
Center console drivers side with upper template in place...
Center console passengers side with upper template in place...
Fuel Cell...
NX Direct port...
01-04-2006 | 10:24 PM
#7
Thanks for the compliments.
The heads don't cost relatively that much, it's all the money you have to spend to make them work. Trust me, we have spent a small fortune. I can't sit down with out permission because the bank owns my ***.
The heads don't cost relatively that much, it's all the money you have to spend to make them work. Trust me, we have spent a small fortune. I can't sit down with out permission because the bank owns my ***.
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01-04-2006 | 11:08 PM
#10
Dragframe: I love that quote in your sig..that's funny as hell.
They can be purchased from the GM performance parts catalog brand new but they are hideously expensive new.
We got ours through a used NASCAR parts wharehouse in the Carolinas.
They were about $3000 but they came with Del West Titanium valves and the matching NASCAR spec T&D shaft rocker setup.
Like I said, the heads are not that much ($3000 is a lot of coin but consider the valves they came with cost $1600 and the rocker setup is an easy $1800+ new and you can see the deal)
The real cost is in everything else. Custom headers, intake, lifters, pushrods, pistons, aftermarket DFI, killer short block, body work to clear the cowl, the frame had to be notched and the passenger floor relocated to clear the headers, etc...etc...etc...
They can be purchased from the GM performance parts catalog brand new but they are hideously expensive new.
We got ours through a used NASCAR parts wharehouse in the Carolinas.
They were about $3000 but they came with Del West Titanium valves and the matching NASCAR spec T&D shaft rocker setup.
Like I said, the heads are not that much ($3000 is a lot of coin but consider the valves they came with cost $1600 and the rocker setup is an easy $1800+ new and you can see the deal)
The real cost is in everything else. Custom headers, intake, lifters, pushrods, pistons, aftermarket DFI, killer short block, body work to clear the cowl, the frame had to be notched and the passenger floor relocated to clear the headers, etc...etc...etc...
01-04-2006 | 11:25 PM
#11
DAmn aint no **** huh. That is a lil $$$.
What do you think about my other idea.. the Brodix heads.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-modifications/431587-getting-head-another-head-thread.html
That is the thread i started. Brodix desribes them as a strait swap on an normal SBC without special parts basicly by the sounds of it. Seems others are skeptical (always are right?).
What do you think about my other idea.. the Brodix heads.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-modifications/431587-getting-head-another-head-thread.html
That is the thread i started. Brodix desribes them as a strait swap on an normal SBC without special parts basicly by the sounds of it. Seems others are skeptical (always are right?).
01-05-2006 | 12:00 AM
#12
The Brodix 18x heads are a very good alternative. They will require custom pistons, headers and intake however. They do flow around 320 out of the box as stated and the others are correct, you can get fully ported castings of other manufacturers that will bolt on already that flow that number. The Brodix's will be able to be ported to more than that though.
The big thing people miss is the fact that the reason these heads flow so well is not only in the much better valve angle but the shear size as well. Correct me if I am wrong but the Brodix intake port is 244cc for the standard and 254cc for the cnc'd versions. That big of a port is going to require some serious rpm to make power. The stock short block will not survive for long. Anytime you want to bolt on the baddest heads in the land you are going to have to have a short block to survive it.
Example, my motor made power to 8300 and was spun to 8800 on the dyno. The factory short block would have a yard sale all over the floor way before that at those power levels.
There is a lot to consider when going to the high end of the head spectrum. I would say anytime you start getting over 600hp N/A/ at the crank, with less than 400 cubes on a 4.0xx bore, you better have a wicked short block.
The big thing people miss is the fact that the reason these heads flow so well is not only in the much better valve angle but the shear size as well. Correct me if I am wrong but the Brodix intake port is 244cc for the standard and 254cc for the cnc'd versions. That big of a port is going to require some serious rpm to make power. The stock short block will not survive for long. Anytime you want to bolt on the baddest heads in the land you are going to have to have a short block to survive it.
Example, my motor made power to 8300 and was spun to 8800 on the dyno. The factory short block would have a yard sale all over the floor way before that at those power levels.
There is a lot to consider when going to the high end of the head spectrum. I would say anytime you start getting over 600hp N/A/ at the crank, with less than 400 cubes on a 4.0xx bore, you better have a wicked short block.
01-05-2006 | 12:13 AM
#13
Originally Posted by N20Dave
The Brodix 18x heads are a very good alternative. They will require custom pistons, headers and intake however. They do flow around 320 out of the box as stated and the others are correct, you can get fully ported castings of other manufacturers that will bolt on already that flow that number. The Brodix's will be able to be ported to more than that though.
The big thing people miss is the fact that the reason these heads flow so well is not only in the much better valve angle but the shear size as well. Correct me if I am wrong but the Brodix intake port is 244cc for the standard and 254cc for the cnc'd versions. That big of a port is going to require some serious rpm to make power. The stock short block will not survive for long. Anytime you want to bolt on the baddest heads in the land you are going to have to have a short block to survive it.
Example, my motor made power to 8300 and was spun to 8800 on the dyno. The factory short block would have a yard sale all over the floor way before that at those power levels.
There is a lot to consider when going to the high end of the head spectrum. I would say anytime you start getting over 600hp N/A/ at the crank, with less than 400 cubes on a 4.0xx bore, you better have a wicked short block.
The big thing people miss is the fact that the reason these heads flow so well is not only in the much better valve angle but the shear size as well. Correct me if I am wrong but the Brodix intake port is 244cc for the standard and 254cc for the cnc'd versions. That big of a port is going to require some serious rpm to make power. The stock short block will not survive for long. Anytime you want to bolt on the baddest heads in the land you are going to have to have a short block to survive it.
Example, my motor made power to 8300 and was spun to 8800 on the dyno. The factory short block would have a yard sale all over the floor way before that at those power levels.
There is a lot to consider when going to the high end of the head spectrum. I would say anytime you start getting over 600hp N/A/ at the crank, with less than 400 cubes on a 4.0xx bore, you better have a wicked short block.
well my plan is as follows.
---------
~Intercooled PTK turbo setup. 20* of boost with a t76.
~8.5:1 compression
~Full forged bottom end with JE blower pistons (30 over). (355 because of the small turbo and im looking for a lil faster reving motor)
~Brodix 18* heads.
~And if i have to, convert a normal carb SBC intake for fuel injection (done it before) to fit the heads.
That is just the shear basic, but it gives you an idea. These heads fit an application such as that?
EDIT: sorry for the thread high-jack
01-05-2006 | 12:54 AM
#14
They would be but to be honest, I would get a set of ported AFR's that will flow around 310-320 that are made for reverse cooling, save the money on the custom pistons (18* stuff is more expensive than standard 23*), headers and other associated parts. I would still use a converted single plane intake with an elbow and a BIG throttle body. I would go with an 88mm turbo or something in that range. I wouldn't mind giving up 20-40 cfm with a good turbo setup as long as I had at least 310cfm to start as the thing is going to make big power anyway.
What are your goals? How much is enough at the moment? Do you want to grow beyond it later?
If money is no object then by all means get the Boridx package. I don't think you are going to give up much with a turbo setup by not doing it. Think about it, you can be making 1000 at the wheels with what I described with relative ease. That's more power than you can use unless the chassis is really built well.
What are your goals? How much is enough at the moment? Do you want to grow beyond it later?
If money is no object then by all means get the Boridx package. I don't think you are going to give up much with a turbo setup by not doing it. Think about it, you can be making 1000 at the wheels with what I described with relative ease. That's more power than you can use unless the chassis is really built well.
01-05-2006 | 01:25 AM
#15
Originally Posted by N20Dave
They would be but to be honest, I would get a set of ported AFR's that will flow around 310-320 that are made for reverse cooling, save the money on the custom pistons (18* stuff is more expensive than standard 23*), headers and other associated parts. I would still use a converted single plane intake with an elbow and a BIG throttle body. I would go with an 88mm turbo or something in that range. I wouldn't mind giving up 20-40 cfm with a good turbo setup as long as I had at least 310cfm to start as the thing is going to make big power anyway.
What are your goals? How much is enough at the moment? Do you want to grow beyond it later?
If money is no object then by all means get the Boridx package. I don't think you are going to give up much with a turbo setup by not doing it. Think about it, you can be making 1000 at the wheels with what I described with relative ease. That's more power than you can use unless the chassis is really built well.
What are your goals? How much is enough at the moment? Do you want to grow beyond it later?
If money is no object then by all means get the Boridx package. I don't think you are going to give up much with a turbo setup by not doing it. Think about it, you can be making 1000 at the wheels with what I described with relative ease. That's more power than you can use unless the chassis is really built well.
my goal for the full motor is not all that bad. Im only (lol.. only.. haha) looking
for 700-800 at the wheels. With power goals like that... the t76 should handle it. But then again most people seem to run the larger 88 turbo
01-05-2006 | 01:37 AM
#16
To me an 88mm would be the minimum. Of course your talking to a guy who doesn't have his car together yet and is already making turbo headers for a 101mm thumper for next year...
01-05-2006 | 01:44 AM
#17
Originally Posted by N20Dave
To me an 88mm would be the minimum. Of course your talking to a guy who doesn't have his car together yet and is already making turbo headers for a 101mm thumper for next year...
Thats going to be just plain sick
01-05-2006 | 01:53 AM
#18
Originally Posted by N20Dave
To me an 88mm would be the minimum. Of course your talking to a guy who doesn't have his car together yet and is already making turbo headers for a 101mm thumper for next year...
How well is that large of a turbo (88mm) going to fit under the car is the PTk arangement? And you think i will make my power?
01-05-2006 | 02:07 AM
#19
Thanks Bizzzatch350...no one ever accused me of being mundane. After all, no *****, no blue chips.
I don't think it will be the fastest LT1...Rick is the man... but it sure will hold it's own. I am expecting the car to run 9.0x's as it is with the 400 shot and maybe 8.80's if I swap in a th400. Problem is tuning and reliability on that big of a hit. It has 13.5-1 compression which makes a street tune a tad bit of a challenge. An 8.5-1 big turbo setup makes that all go away then we have low 8's.
As it sits it makes about 1140 on spray at the crank. I eventually want 1300-1400 at the wheels. When I go thumper, I doubt it will still be an LT1 block. I'm thinking one piece seal bowtie.
Dragframe: It's late here so re-educate me, is the PTK kit the rear mount or does it mount under the front somewhere?
I don't think it will be the fastest LT1...Rick is the man... but it sure will hold it's own. I am expecting the car to run 9.0x's as it is with the 400 shot and maybe 8.80's if I swap in a th400. Problem is tuning and reliability on that big of a hit. It has 13.5-1 compression which makes a street tune a tad bit of a challenge. An 8.5-1 big turbo setup makes that all go away then we have low 8's.
As it sits it makes about 1140 on spray at the crank. I eventually want 1300-1400 at the wheels. When I go thumper, I doubt it will still be an LT1 block. I'm thinking one piece seal bowtie.
Dragframe: It's late here so re-educate me, is the PTK kit the rear mount or does it mount under the front somewhere?
01-05-2006 | 02:12 AM
#20
Originally Posted by N20Dave
Dragframe: It's late here so re-educate me, is the PTK kit the rear mount or does it mount under the front somewhere?
http://forcedinductions.com/GMkits2.htm
^^link to the kits... im just using the hot parts.. but same mounting so yeah. What you think?