Custom Grind Cams For LT1?
Custom Grind Cams For LT1? Lookin to get a cam for my 93' in march and a whole new valvetrain, at this point i dunno what cam im going with but i think i want something around the 306. IMO streetable is 14+mpg and my car not dying on the street. But i dont want to over do the whole thing with a cam my 138k bottom end cant handle. As for end outcome for the whole Valvtrain swap, i would really really like to see high 12s. If i went with a custom grind i really dont know how much more complicated it would be to get the specs right for the cam. Ive heard a lot of hearsay about what # the lt1 heads stop flowing at. I also dont know what LSA i should be lookin into either. The Stock cam is 114 so maybe do almost the same specs as the 306 with a bigger LSA or a smaller LSA. I dont know a big diff. about Higher or lower but ive got a few factoids about them both. If you guys have any suggestions let me know, but at this point im still not sure.
I would talk to a good grinder and see what they recommend. That said the ONLY reasons to consider a 114LSA are emmisions or boost, most off the shelf cams are 112 and the really sucessful custom LT1 grinders are going tighter yet. That said talking about LSA like this is really oversimplifying. My opinion is you want to stay a good bit smaller than the 306.
Why would i want to go smaller than the 306? I drive my car to work 5 min away and school 10 min away, and then i race at the track. I want power, i think i might consider just doing the 306, ive seen dynos and times and people say its a great cam.
That is WAY too big a cam for an auto and a heavy car. You need to look at a head port job before you even get the 305s. Don't let the specs get in the way of torque - you may easily end up sounding faster and going a lot slower.
I would spring for stock head porting, around $350, then look at something like the CC 07-503-8, 224/230. It is a more intense (faster ramping) cam than the 306. If you can spring for new springs and 1.6 roller rockers you would have a really solid setup.
The head porting alone should be worth 25HP/33TQ across most of the board. It will allow that cam to shine.
Remember, everything in your combo has to match your use and the car's real capabilities.
Jim
I would spring for stock head porting, around $350, then look at something like the CC 07-503-8, 224/230. It is a more intense (faster ramping) cam than the 306. If you can spring for new springs and 1.6 roller rockers you would have a really solid setup.
The head porting alone should be worth 25HP/33TQ across most of the board. It will allow that cam to shine.
Remember, everything in your combo has to match your use and the car's real capabilities.
Jim
people have run 306 on stock heads, am i not correct? I plan on a whole new VT springs, rr, guideplates, retainers. Maybe ill do a custom grind, the 305 just doesnt please me. 220/230 305, what about 230/236 or 230/240?
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Had Comp Cams grind me a cam with daily driving in mind. 383 cid and LT1 heads flowing high 270s on the intake. 224/230 @ .050" .574/.570 lift with 1.6 rockers. 113 LSA. Car is not running yet but I like the numbers.
Mec
Mec
Yes people have done the 306 on untouched heads, doesn't mean it is a good idea.
I Know two locals that went that big in M6 cars with 4.10s one ended up selling the car the other bought another so he could enjoy driving an f-body again. Neither ended up fast. Had they ported heads it might have worked better. This is THE classic gearhead mistake, the "more is better" syndrome.
I Know two locals that went that big in M6 cars with 4.10s one ended up selling the car the other bought another so he could enjoy driving an f-body again. Neither ended up fast. Had they ported heads it might have worked better. This is THE classic gearhead mistake, the "more is better" syndrome.
I would probably shy away from the 306, and go for something smaller as well with 138k on the clock. That cam will want some serious revs, and that most likely will lead to a bearing failure. I personally would go with a custom, but I am sure that there is a off the shelf cam that would fit your goals. I somewhat agree with DeltaT, the CC-503 would be a decent choice. There are ALOT of people with that cam that love it. I had it, and thought it was alright as well. A cam like that you can keep the revs down and shift around 6200 and will make decent power. Although a XE or XFI grind is gonna want some good valvesprings(beehives, since thats what they are designed to work with).
If your car is a DD, and you are expecting some sort of longevity after you put the cam in, then I would go smaller. If you don't mind revving the **** out of your 138K mile bottom end knowing that it will most likely be broken before to awful long, then go custom or 306 sized cam.
If your car is a DD, and you are expecting some sort of longevity after you put the cam in, then I would go smaller. If you don't mind revving the **** out of your 138K mile bottom end knowing that it will most likely be broken before to awful long, then go custom or 306 sized cam.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,023
Likes: 6
From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
I would also like to say a smalled cam would probably be better. I really like the LPE 211/219 cam for a stock engine. We have one in the wifes car on a mild tune with a converter like yours it runs 13.00 all day long, very easy to drive ,sounds good and getts stock MPG or better.
The CC-305 is another good choice. A good old school cut ,will last a long time with out taking out the valve train. They make good power(we have made over 400RWHP Un-locked) and are still pleasent to drive.
The CC-306 was very popular back in the day. Many never tuned them in good and gave up on them. Then tuning came along and they were ok
there are many better choices.
If all you want is the sound? you can get it and much better drivability with a 21x/22x 112 cam
The CC-305 is another good choice. A good old school cut ,will last a long time with out taking out the valve train. They make good power(we have made over 400RWHP Un-locked) and are still pleasent to drive.
The CC-306 was very popular back in the day. Many never tuned them in good and gave up on them. Then tuning came along and they were ok
there are many better choices. If all you want is the sound? you can get it and much better drivability with a 21x/22x 112 cam
11 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 159
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From: Amite, La
I run the 306 and I spin it up to 7 grand sometimes, running stock (self ported) iron heads and it works fine for me. I just put 100 hp nitrous on my car and went 11.42 on the first full pass. I've got another 75 hp to go and I am hoping to see some better numbers. I feel the converter that you have would be usable as I use a TCI super street fighter (3500- 3800 rpm's) with a 4.10 gear and a 28x9x15 ET Drag slick. Hey, it could be faster, but it hauls the mail for what it is.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,023
Likes: 6
From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
Originally Posted by rebersole2
I run the 306 and I spin it up to 7 grand sometimes, running stock (self ported) iron heads and it works fine for me. I just put 100 hp nitrous on my car and went 11.42 on the first full pass. I've got another 75 hp to go and I am hoping to see some better numbers. I feel the converter that you have would be usable as I use a TCI super street fighter (3500- 3800 rpm's) with a 4.10 gear and a 28x9x15 ET Drag slick. Hey, it could be faster, but it hauls the mail for what it is.
And? I ran a GM 847 and ran 11.85 N/A on stock short block and LE1 heads
Ran geat on the street but there was alot of tuning to get there Never pulled the trigger on the Juice.Right now "I" am living with a 24x/24x 110 LSA cam in my street car
I would NOT recomend my cam for anyone else unless they had the same combo and desires I do.As is the norm with cam choice it is all about WHAT the owner is willing to live with. IF the desire is just to have a car with "That" sound I would not choose a CC-306
This is JUST my opinion nothing more
I have an A4 too, so shifting points i wont be doing. Im not in it for the sound really, my car sounds mean enough as is. I really would like to have the ets of a nice cam though. I just need alot more info about cams and stuff, i cant just make a descision of # and opinons. I sent bret a pm hopefully he can help me out.
You can't keep camming away at crappy flowing heads. The cam as a Bandaid only can do so much. The heads are critical to a faster motor. Everything needs to work together as a system to make a fast car. Right now, you have a very lightly modded car.
Remember, a car with great heads and an OK cam will always work better than a car with crappy heads and a great cam.
You can keep asking people until you get enough people that tell you otherwise, but you can't get away from this fundamental truth. At some point, you must get good heads. Your motor is simply an air pump, self powered. The intake, heads, cam, compression and exhaust need to work in concert before you get really fast.
The web is full of "experts" that tried to get around this, but failed. Don't be one of them.
Jim
Jim
Remember, a car with great heads and an OK cam will always work better than a car with crappy heads and a great cam.
You can keep asking people until you get enough people that tell you otherwise, but you can't get away from this fundamental truth. At some point, you must get good heads. Your motor is simply an air pump, self powered. The intake, heads, cam, compression and exhaust need to work in concert before you get really fast.
The web is full of "experts" that tried to get around this, but failed. Don't be one of them.
Jim
Jim
The heads are a big part of it.... but, the valve events being in the right spots make things happen that cause VE of over 85% possible.... but teamed up with the right intake and exhaust.
I would agree that head and cam are the best way to make power. The combination is the key.
Bret
I would agree that head and cam are the best way to make power. The combination is the key.
Bret
Well when my mech. saying i shouldnt mess with my heads because of my high miles, i think im going to trust him, in that sense this is why im just doing the valvetrain and cam, not heads. If i could do heads i would.
Originally Posted by 1993CaMaRoZ28ofIdAhO
Well when my mech. saying i shouldnt mess with my heads because of my high miles, i think im going to trust him, in that sense this is why im just doing the valvetrain and cam, not heads. If i could do heads i would.