Fastest bolt on times,
02-01-2006, 01:06 PM
#41
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It's not hard to get it down that far, I have not done anything that is not available to everyone. I will start cutting metal sometime, LOL!!
Just pick the good parts that are light, like the DRs, are not the lightest set up you can get, ET Drags are the lightest but you may not want to go that route.
Suspension is the key, you want to use all the energy that motor is putting out, dont waste any of it. Go solid on as much as you can stand.
The only part I wish I did not go rod end on is the TA it transmits a TON of noise, where the poly ended one would not have BUT this is not a street car, its a track car so really that is not a problem now.
Just think too, this is with the 12bolt and large rear sway bar, so some weight has been added.
I will be more than happy to provide any other info you need.
I am
about this stuff!!
Just pick the good parts that are light, like the DRs, are not the lightest set up you can get, ET Drags are the lightest but you may not want to go that route.
Suspension is the key, you want to use all the energy that motor is putting out, dont waste any of it. Go solid on as much as you can stand.
The only part I wish I did not go rod end on is the TA it transmits a TON of noise, where the poly ended one would not have BUT this is not a street car, its a track car so really that is not a problem now.
Just think too, this is with the 12bolt and large rear sway bar, so some weight has been added.
I will be more than happy to provide any other info you need.
I am
about this stuff!!
Originally Posted by Z94SLEEPER
Holy crap Shon!
Your car's race weight is 305x!?! & with a 235lb driver in it as well?
I would love for my car to be 3200 w/o me in it.
Mine weighs 3415-ish w/o me and I'm 190lbs. and running 110. Man, I can't wait to drop some weight on the car, run drag radials, add RRs, setup and tune some better suspension, and give it another dyno tune to see how much mph I can run!
L8TR,
Your car's race weight is 305x!?! & with a 235lb driver in it as well?
I would love for my car to be 3200 w/o me in it.
Mine weighs 3415-ish w/o me and I'm 190lbs. and running 110. Man, I can't wait to drop some weight on the car, run drag radials, add RRs, setup and tune some better suspension, and give it another dyno tune to see how much mph I can run!
L8TR,
02-01-2006, 01:10 PM
#42
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Originally Posted by blind527
I just took off my front sway bar, that's good for about 20 pounds. I also plan on gutting my interior, running on less than a half a tank, and maybe I'll drop at least 75 pounds from all the stuff I've taken off of it.
Gas is 7#s a gallon, anything above the 1/4 mark is TOO much!!
Carpet is 35#s without soundeadner.
Seats are 35#s unless you got power seat and that is closer to 45-50.
Plastic parts from the rear seats back is 5-10#s.
02-01-2006, 01:20 PM
#43
Originally Posted by Shon Herron
If you only got 20#s of sway bar you didnt get it all, there are brackets and all that need to be gotten, should be tipping closer to 30#s.
Gas is 7#s a gallon, anything above the 1/4 mark is TOO much!!
Carpet is 35#s without soundeadner.
Seats are 35#s unless you got power seat and that is closer to 45-50.
Plastic parts from the rear seats back is 5-10#s.
Gas is 7#s a gallon, anything above the 1/4 mark is TOO much!!
Carpet is 35#s without soundeadner.
Seats are 35#s unless you got power seat and that is closer to 45-50.
Plastic parts from the rear seats back is 5-10#s.
I ran a 13.4 on a FULL tank of gas, FULL interior weight, sway bar intact. That's not bad for an A4 Formula with just headers and some other mods. I don't think I would take out the carpet, as I wouldn't want to reinstall it! Just taking out the seats, I think will work. My passenger seat is not power. I thought about removing the carpet, but decided against it. So maybe I'll have about....80-95 pounds off?
02-01-2006, 01:24 PM
#44
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we scale everything that goes in and comes out. Lots of fun!
once you get the seats, belts and console the carpet comes right out!!
This 97 went 13.5-13.44 with SS wheels, OBDI conversion, muffler, shifter, CAI, gutted cats.
once you get the seats, belts and console the carpet comes right out!!
This 97 went 13.5-13.44 with SS wheels, OBDI conversion, muffler, shifter, CAI, gutted cats.
02-01-2006, 01:26 PM
#45
Originally Posted by Shon Herron
we scale everything that goes in and comes out. Lots of fun!
once you get the seats, belts and console the carpet comes right out!!
This 97 went 13.5-13.44 with SS wheels, OBDI conversion, muffler, shifter, CAI, gutted cats.
once you get the seats, belts and console the carpet comes right out!!
This 97 went 13.5-13.44 with SS wheels, OBDI conversion, muffler, shifter, CAI, gutted cats.
02-01-2006, 01:51 PM
#48
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Sorry guys I've been busy with a new ride. I'm discovering what I pain FI is. I still haven't figured out how to keep the 530RWHP monster firing on all 8. I ordered a delteq for it so hopefully that will help.
I have no plans in the near future to better my bolton times even though I know I could do better. It's just that the cost to benefit ratio isn't there. If you have questions, hit me up. I'd be glad to help you achieve your goals. It is a difficult road and many sacrifices have to be made to put a bolton LT1 into the 11's. To give you an idea my car weighed in at 2785 one day which required no a/c, no PS, no ABS, no interior, etc. and MAYBE 2 gallons in the tank. One day I ran out of gas at the track. LOL!! On the positive side, running light sure feels good.
I have no plans in the near future to better my bolton times even though I know I could do better. It's just that the cost to benefit ratio isn't there. If you have questions, hit me up. I'd be glad to help you achieve your goals. It is a difficult road and many sacrifices have to be made to put a bolton LT1 into the 11's. To give you an idea my car weighed in at 2785 one day which required no a/c, no PS, no ABS, no interior, etc. and MAYBE 2 gallons in the tank. One day I ran out of gas at the track. LOL!! On the positive side, running light sure feels good.
02-14-2006, 10:41 AM
#50
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wow, had no idea this post took off, shop's been busy so haven't had time to keep up either.
Mine has 1.6RR, springs/titanium retainer (shon i'm pming you a picture of LT4 retainers, NOT A GOOD IDEA) elec wp, hooker lt's, my shops custom y-pipe, our custom tuning, borla catback, p&p maf and tb, march underdrives, moroso CAI, 160* stat, that was all it took to acheive 12.40's.
Now, spec3 clutch, 9" with 4.33 gears, bmr trakpack, LCA's, lca reloc brackets.
The reason i say lt4 retainers are a bad idea is b/c thats what caused mine to drop the number 8 intake valve, the retainer broke around the perimeter, just dropping the valve. they only had about 25000 miles on them, with my shifting like yours (foot to the floor). bent the valve, broke the valve guide out of the head. Put a new head and piston in it, didn't touch anything else. the bottom end, besides the used piston, has 158000 miles on it.
Mine has 1.6RR, springs/titanium retainer (shon i'm pming you a picture of LT4 retainers, NOT A GOOD IDEA) elec wp, hooker lt's, my shops custom y-pipe, our custom tuning, borla catback, p&p maf and tb, march underdrives, moroso CAI, 160* stat, that was all it took to acheive 12.40's.
Now, spec3 clutch, 9" with 4.33 gears, bmr trakpack, LCA's, lca reloc brackets.
The reason i say lt4 retainers are a bad idea is b/c thats what caused mine to drop the number 8 intake valve, the retainer broke around the perimeter, just dropping the valve. they only had about 25000 miles on them, with my shifting like yours (foot to the floor). bent the valve, broke the valve guide out of the head. Put a new head and piston in it, didn't touch anything else. the bottom end, besides the used piston, has 158000 miles on it.
02-14-2006, 11:56 AM
#51
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OUCH!
If this motor sees 100 miles I will be shocked, I will blow it up or it will have a new set up in it before 100 miles is up. They just dont rack up drag racing. It would suck to drop a valve but be a good reason to pull the motor.....
If this motor sees 100 miles I will be shocked, I will blow it up or it will have a new set up in it before 100 miles is up. They just dont rack up drag racing. It would suck to drop a valve but be a good reason to pull the motor.....
02-14-2006, 12:29 PM
#53
What kind of gains in the 1/4 and in regular HP can you see with 1.6RR? I want to put some in my car and drop it down to a 12.999 then I'll be happy. With the 150+ pounds of weight I shaved off the car and some drag radials, I should see some better numbers! I'm really hoping I get lucky at the track next time.
02-14-2006, 07:19 PM
#55
dont know if it is good or not but i got a 94 formula headers ,cold air ,4.10,every thing else was stock my best time was a 8.43 i know have some susp. 3.70 gear 58 throtle body 160 stat and a tune going next week to see what it will do that is 1/8 mile times
Last edited by slolt1; 02-14-2006 at 08:35 PM.
02-14-2006, 07:30 PM
#56
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Originally Posted by Shon Herron
It's not hard to get it down that far, I have not done anything that is not available to everyone. I will start cutting metal sometime, LOL!!
Just pick the good parts that are light, like the DRs, are not the lightest set up you can get, ET Drags are the lightest but you may not want to go that route.
Suspension is the key, you want to use all the energy that motor is putting out, dont waste any of it. Go solid on as much as you can stand.
The only part I wish I did not go rod end on is the TA it transmits a TON of noise, where the poly ended one would not have BUT this is not a street car, its a track car so really that is not a problem now.
Just think too, this is with the 12bolt and large rear sway bar, so some weight has been added.
I will be more than happy to provide any other info you need.
I am about this stuff!!
Just pick the good parts that are light, like the DRs, are not the lightest set up you can get, ET Drags are the lightest but you may not want to go that route.
Suspension is the key, you want to use all the energy that motor is putting out, dont waste any of it. Go solid on as much as you can stand.
The only part I wish I did not go rod end on is the TA it transmits a TON of noise, where the poly ended one would not have BUT this is not a street car, its a track car so really that is not a problem now.
Just think too, this is with the 12bolt and large rear sway bar, so some weight has been added.
I will be more than happy to provide any other info you need.
I am
about this stuff!!