LT1 even worth modding?
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 119
Likes: 2
From: Toronto Canada
At this point I feel my lt1 is a bit of an orphan. Have both a lt1 96 ta and ls1 2002 35thss car, dont drive the camaro much as it feels like a stone compared to the lt1. A lot more in the aftermarket for ls1's but I did get the lt1 to make around 600 rwhp with converters and car still passing an emission test.
I was regreting the lt1 buildup up untill dec when they came up with a whole new set of rules for e testing cars up here. As of 2006 anything 1998 and newer has to be pluged into mto computer for the emission test so that pretty much ends the serious modding of ls1s here.
John
I was regreting the lt1 buildup up untill dec when they came up with a whole new set of rules for e testing cars up here. As of 2006 anything 1998 and newer has to be pluged into mto computer for the emission test so that pretty much ends the serious modding of ls1s here.
John
the LT1 is a beast of a beast... personally.. i believe that the LT1 T/A, camaro were the last F-body muscle cars... the LS1 is borderline sports car.
the pros. of LT1 are:
- bad *** torque band.
- no matter what, it will always sound throatier and deeper than LS1
- Cast Iron Block means butload of spray on stock bottom end
- messing with the intake mani and heads will do ALOT because that's where it lags
everytime i raced a LS1 in my LT1.. stock for stock i had about 1/2 car to 1 car till top of 2nd and then they slowly creep away.. lol
the pros. of LT1 are:
- bad *** torque band.
- no matter what, it will always sound throatier and deeper than LS1
- Cast Iron Block means butload of spray on stock bottom end
- messing with the intake mani and heads will do ALOT because that's where it lags
everytime i raced a LS1 in my LT1.. stock for stock i had about 1/2 car to 1 car till top of 2nd and then they slowly creep away.. lol
if you want to make under 450 rwhp keep the LT1. If you want to make over 450 rwhp get an LS1. You can do it with an LT1 but the expense really starts to climb after that.
My car should be at 400 rwhp or so when I get it back together (through an auto), run mid-high 11s, and I honestly don't know what I'll do after that. It'll take big bucks to do anything after this to produce more power.
single plain intake converson: $1500+
SBC head conversion: I have no idea, probably well over $500 just to convert the head to reverse flow
forced induction: $4000+
Nitrous could find its way on there, but I don't like the stuff.
HOWEVER, that is not gonna make me get an LS1. My car sounds much better than an LT1 and IMO looks pretty damn good. Plus I already have this car!
My car should be at 400 rwhp or so when I get it back together (through an auto), run mid-high 11s, and I honestly don't know what I'll do after that. It'll take big bucks to do anything after this to produce more power.
single plain intake converson: $1500+
SBC head conversion: I have no idea, probably well over $500 just to convert the head to reverse flow
forced induction: $4000+
Nitrous could find its way on there, but I don't like the stuff.
HOWEVER, that is not gonna make me get an LS1. My car sounds much better than an LT1 and IMO looks pretty damn good. Plus I already have this car!
look guys the lt-1 is a more reliable block being cast iron and cheaper to modify my lt-1 has run hot a few times and no problems wth wraping try that with a ls-1 with its conposite intake and you may feel different about it and second the lt-1 is more like the real 350 motors one of the most reliable, most verstile engines made by gm so do the lt-1 you will enjoy it if not you can sell it and get your money plus some out of it 
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Originally Posted by zigroid
if you want to make under 450 rwhp keep the LT1. If you want to make over 450 rwhp get an LS1. You can do it with an LT1 but the expense really starts to climb after that.
My car should be at 400 rwhp or so when I get it back together (through an auto), run mid-high 11s, and I honestly don't know what I'll do after that. It'll take big bucks to do anything after this to produce more power.
single plain intake converson: $1500+
SBC head conversion: I have no idea, probably well over $500 just to convert the head to reverse flow
forced induction: $4000+
Nitrous could find its way on there, but I don't like the stuff.
HOWEVER, that is not gonna make me get an LS1. My car sounds much better than an LT1 and IMO looks pretty damn good. Plus I already have this car!
My car should be at 400 rwhp or so when I get it back together (through an auto), run mid-high 11s, and I honestly don't know what I'll do after that. It'll take big bucks to do anything after this to produce more power.
single plain intake converson: $1500+
SBC head conversion: I have no idea, probably well over $500 just to convert the head to reverse flow
forced induction: $4000+
Nitrous could find its way on there, but I don't like the stuff.
HOWEVER, that is not gonna make me get an LS1. My car sounds much better than an LT1 and IMO looks pretty damn good. Plus I already have this car!
Originally Posted by zigroid
if you want to make under 450 rwhp keep the LT1. If you want to make over 450 rwhp get an LS1. You can do it with an LT1 but the expense really starts to climb after that.
My car should be at 400 rwhp or so when I get it back together (through an auto), run mid-high 11s, and I honestly don't know what I'll do after that. It'll take big bucks to do anything after this to produce more power.
single plain intake converson: $1500+
SBC head conversion: I have no idea, probably well over $500 just to convert the head to reverse flow
forced induction: $4000+
Nitrous could find its way on there, but I don't like the stuff.
HOWEVER, that is not gonna make me get an LS1. My car sounds much better than an LT1 and IMO looks pretty damn good. Plus I already have this car!
My car should be at 400 rwhp or so when I get it back together (through an auto), run mid-high 11s, and I honestly don't know what I'll do after that. It'll take big bucks to do anything after this to produce more power.
single plain intake converson: $1500+
SBC head conversion: I have no idea, probably well over $500 just to convert the head to reverse flow
forced induction: $4000+
Nitrous could find its way on there, but I don't like the stuff.
HOWEVER, that is not gonna make me get an LS1. My car sounds much better than an LT1 and IMO looks pretty damn good. Plus I already have this car!
Its not as hard as you guys think. I have GM LT4 heads, and lt4 intake. I make 476 rwhp in a 355. Stock crank, stock block, good rods/pistons with a solid roller. This is through a 9" and 4.71 gears. It does take more thought but you donn't have to start converting to SBC stuff. I'm actually doing something that may give me in the 490s rwhp. It can be done, you just have to try alittle harder. We've had some 430+ rwhp hyd roller cars down here and a 452 rwhp Hyd roller, ported lt1 heads/intake with a stock bottem end.
9 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
From: ringgold,ga
ive seen atleast four ls1's in my area have problems with spinning rod bearings which cannot be reused(the rod). donot know if they are prone to this problem or the drivers are turning them to hard. one is a friend of mine ,and he swears he was just driving when it spun a bearing.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
From: Leander, TX
Originally Posted by TAEnvy
Hell yeah mod it. I have the funds to buy an LS1 car but I will be buying the LT1 because parts are cheaper and I would love to put a few local cocky ls1 drivers in their place.
As they say "LT1s make you confident, LS1s make you cocky."
As they say "LT1s make you confident, LS1s make you cocky."
Back when I had the cam, stall and 2.93s NO HEADERS most LS1 cars even bolton cars saw nothing but taillights till the 1/8th or so and that was with me on street tires running low 14s most of the time. The b-body makes good use of the LT1 torque, after that they would start their charge and usually catch me unless the driver screwed up. This year it will be another story.
The LS1 has advantages and drawbacks those that think since the LS1 came out the LT1s are not worthwhile are just narrowminded and will accuse fast LT1s of spraying or something because their ignorance blinds them. Them saying the LT1 is not worthwhile would be like us saying the Gen1 is not worthwhile. Yes our motors have advancements over the gen1 but that doesn't make the gen1 bad, bet everyone here LT1 or LS1 has lost a race to a gen1 powered car of some sort.
The LS1 has advantages and drawbacks those that think since the LS1 came out the LT1s are not worthwhile are just narrowminded and will accuse fast LT1s of spraying or something because their ignorance blinds them. Them saying the LT1 is not worthwhile would be like us saying the Gen1 is not worthwhile. Yes our motors have advancements over the gen1 but that doesn't make the gen1 bad, bet everyone here LT1 or LS1 has lost a race to a gen1 powered car of some sort.
I love my LT1.
- Torque
- Sound
- Cheap
I'm currently trying to sell her to get a 3rd gen fbody and put a gen 1 in it, but that's for totally different reasons. The LT1 is a stout motor in stock form, and all it takes is a catback, gears, tires and a mail-order tune to make it run high 12s.
- Torque
- Sound
- Cheap
I'm currently trying to sell her to get a 3rd gen fbody and put a gen 1 in it, but that's for totally different reasons. The LT1 is a stout motor in stock form, and all it takes is a catback, gears, tires and a mail-order tune to make it run high 12s.
Originally Posted by wabmorgan
Really... then why does my stock LT1 Formula out run almost anything else it comes up next to?????
Read his sig, and then think about his car, he is being sarcastic man.
LS1=Pretty sick powerband and nice botlon ##
Lt1=Awsome low end powerband and nice botlon ###
