Progress so far...
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,615
Likes: 63
From: NYC
OK, here’s what’s being done:
-Stock block, for now
-Advanced Induction LT1 head & intake street package and custom cam
-GM lifters
-CC push rods & 1.6 roller rockers
-SVO 30# injectors
-SLP adjustable fuel pressure regulator
-Meziere HP water pump
-Vented Optispark
-MSD coil
-Taylor wires
-PCM For Less update
-Kooks headers and dual cat Y pipe
-Goodyear high miler hoses
-Black ZR1 9 & 11 inch wheels, BFGDR’s out back
I’ll post pics of the heads and intake when I have them.
-Stock block, for now
-Advanced Induction LT1 head & intake street package and custom cam
-GM lifters
-CC push rods & 1.6 roller rockers
-SVO 30# injectors
-SLP adjustable fuel pressure regulator
-Meziere HP water pump
-Vented Optispark
-MSD coil
-Taylor wires
-PCM For Less update
-Kooks headers and dual cat Y pipe
-Goodyear high miler hoses
-Black ZR1 9 & 11 inch wheels, BFGDR’s out back
I’ll post pics of the heads and intake when I have them.
Last edited by Paul Bell; May 19, 2006 at 10:21 PM.
Nice setup you have going, should be a beast. Keep us posted.
Kooks are going in a mine this month, probably have to rebuild my Ypipe or start from scratch because I love having dual 3" cutouts vs dual cats, but then again I like the idea of all stainless front to back with my existing Borla.
I'd really like to see someone do a dual 3" stainless exhaust, Borla XR1s with Borla tips, I'm looking for a good shop who can do mandrel bends and build this for me in Houston.
Kooks are going in a mine this month, probably have to rebuild my Ypipe or start from scratch because I love having dual 3" cutouts vs dual cats, but then again I like the idea of all stainless front to back with my existing Borla.
I'd really like to see someone do a dual 3" stainless exhaust, Borla XR1s with Borla tips, I'm looking for a good shop who can do mandrel bends and build this for me in Houston.
Last edited by BRETTINATOR; Feb 8, 2006 at 01:30 AM.
Paul I sent you an email about your Kooks ORY but I decided after looking at your digitial pic of the Ypipe long enough to go with the same thing without the cats, would have gutted them anyway. So got that ordered today $250 is much better than $540 w/cats. Supposedly FlowTech now makes an all Stainless 3" cutout so I'll be getting two of those
. Please let us know how the ypipe/headers all hang under the car when your done...thanks.
. Please let us know how the ypipe/headers all hang under the car when your done...thanks. Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,615
Likes: 63
From: NYC
Hey Brett,
Sorry, I haven't seen an email from you.
The cats on the KOOKS setup look pretty good, I doubt that they are much of a restriction. I'd like to pass NYS emissions.
I just got the camshaft and a few other parts from A.I. and with the snow coming here, I'll get it in. The heads and intake should be next week. I'm shooting for completion by March.
Sorry, I haven't seen an email from you.
The cats on the KOOKS setup look pretty good, I doubt that they are much of a restriction. I'd like to pass NYS emissions.
I just got the camshaft and a few other parts from A.I. and with the snow coming here, I'll get it in. The heads and intake should be next week. I'm shooting for completion by March.
Last edited by Paul Bell; May 26, 2013 at 08:23 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,615
Likes: 63
From: NYC
I've got my heads & manifold from Advanced Induction. The stuff looks great. I'll tell ya, dealing with them is like having a friend in the business, they made me feel like family. Good guys, nice looking products, I highly recommend them.
I'm getting it all together, I found an easy way to slip in those Kooks headers. Just pull off the heads and they'll pop right in.
The head studs worked out well and it looks nice too.
I should have it on the road in about 2 more weeks.
I'm getting it all together, I found an easy way to slip in those Kooks headers. Just pull off the heads and they'll pop right in.
The head studs worked out well and it looks nice too.
I should have it on the road in about 2 more weeks.
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Originally Posted by Paul Bell
I've got my heads & manifold from Advanced Induction. The stuff looks great. I'll tell ya, dealing with them is like having a friend in the business, they made me feel like family. Good guys, nice looking products, I highly recommend them.
I'm getting it all together, I found an easy way to slip in those Kooks headers. Just pull off the heads and they'll pop right in.
The head studs worked out well and it looks nice too.
I should have it on the road in about 2 more weeks.
I'm getting it all together, I found an easy way to slip in those Kooks headers. Just pull off the heads and they'll pop right in.
The head studs worked out well and it looks nice too.
I should have it on the road in about 2 more weeks.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,615
Likes: 63
From: NYC
My project is moving along, slowly.
-The Kooks L/S header collector will not allow you to install an oil filter if you have the optional factory oil cooler. It looks like without the cooler adapter in place, you'll be able to get a standard filter to fit.
-The Kooks dual cat Y pipe comes quite close to fuel & brake lines in two places. My quick fix was to wrap the lines with some heat insulating cloth left over from wrapping the EGR tube.
I am in no way faulting Kooks. I've done some research and found that most F bodies don't have the oil cooler. As for the lines, well the Y pipe is pretty big and it snakes under the body where no exhaust pipe was designed to go.
The Kooks stuff is beautiful and was a perfect, spot on fit. I'm certain it'll perform as advertised and would certainly use it again and highly recommend them.
As for the "oil cooler." Nowhere on this site or others is there much information. I had disassembled my under hood plumbing outside at the start of winter and am now completing the job indoors. I was totally confused as to why one oil cooler line went to the water pump. Exhaustive research reveals that coolant, not oil, flows through these lines. This coolant cools the oil filter mounting base. Much detailed information was found on the WS6.com website.
I for one do not like this.
I'm removing this silly-assed system, installing a proper oil filter relocation kit, a real cooler at the radiator and a remote filter, probably in the area that the A.I.R pump stuff used to be.
-The Kooks L/S header collector will not allow you to install an oil filter if you have the optional factory oil cooler. It looks like without the cooler adapter in place, you'll be able to get a standard filter to fit.
-The Kooks dual cat Y pipe comes quite close to fuel & brake lines in two places. My quick fix was to wrap the lines with some heat insulating cloth left over from wrapping the EGR tube.
I am in no way faulting Kooks. I've done some research and found that most F bodies don't have the oil cooler. As for the lines, well the Y pipe is pretty big and it snakes under the body where no exhaust pipe was designed to go.
The Kooks stuff is beautiful and was a perfect, spot on fit. I'm certain it'll perform as advertised and would certainly use it again and highly recommend them.
As for the "oil cooler." Nowhere on this site or others is there much information. I had disassembled my under hood plumbing outside at the start of winter and am now completing the job indoors. I was totally confused as to why one oil cooler line went to the water pump. Exhaustive research reveals that coolant, not oil, flows through these lines. This coolant cools the oil filter mounting base. Much detailed information was found on the WS6.com website.
I for one do not like this.
I'm removing this silly-assed system, installing a proper oil filter relocation kit, a real cooler at the radiator and a remote filter, probably in the area that the A.I.R pump stuff used to be.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,615
Likes: 63
From: NYC
BTW, this pretty much negates the thread I started about how much oil is needed. The "oil cooler" doesn't account for any oil volume. Funny how nobody caught that and posted something.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,615
Likes: 63
From: NYC
Hey guys, here’s where I am with the project.
I gave myself the day off (it’s good to be the boss!) to complete this mess.
To get around the oil filter/cooler adapter/header issues, I used a Canton billet remote oil filter adapter 22-592 and their billet remote spin on filter mount, 22-620. I installed the filter mount spaced over the ABS bracket so the filter hangs just behind the sway bar. Looks pretty cool too! There’s an Earl’s oil cooler pancaked on the AC condenser. #10 AN lines plumb the oil where it needs to be.
This pretty much buttoned it all up for now, it’s driveable. I took it out for a spin. I’ve been working on this car since early December and I had never drove a fourth gen before. This car kicks ***! Good pull, it spins them from a stop but from a dig of about 20 MPH or so, those big drag radials just hunker down and bite good. OOF-DAH!!
Speaking of the tires, the rears don’t seem to hit/rub anything. I did trim down the chassis snubbers and whacked in the inside of the wheel housings a bit. I think being stock height, I won’t have to worry about rolling the fender lips.
I don’t even know what kind of muffler is on this car but it sounds pretty nasty when I’m into it but pretty soft when just cruising along. I think I’ll keep it. Of course, a pair of ‘71 Monte SS tips will be on order soon.
Kudo’s to the boys at Advanced Induction for the heads, intake and cam. Good fellas!
What’s next? I’d like to setup a delay relay so the fans and water pump run for a short while after shutting down to reduce hot soak. The interior needs a carpet and one seat needs the leather repaired. The body could use some bangin’ and sprayin’, I’m not building another show car here, just a weekend cruiser.
I gave myself the day off (it’s good to be the boss!) to complete this mess.
To get around the oil filter/cooler adapter/header issues, I used a Canton billet remote oil filter adapter 22-592 and their billet remote spin on filter mount, 22-620. I installed the filter mount spaced over the ABS bracket so the filter hangs just behind the sway bar. Looks pretty cool too! There’s an Earl’s oil cooler pancaked on the AC condenser. #10 AN lines plumb the oil where it needs to be.
This pretty much buttoned it all up for now, it’s driveable. I took it out for a spin. I’ve been working on this car since early December and I had never drove a fourth gen before. This car kicks ***! Good pull, it spins them from a stop but from a dig of about 20 MPH or so, those big drag radials just hunker down and bite good. OOF-DAH!!
Speaking of the tires, the rears don’t seem to hit/rub anything. I did trim down the chassis snubbers and whacked in the inside of the wheel housings a bit. I think being stock height, I won’t have to worry about rolling the fender lips.
I don’t even know what kind of muffler is on this car but it sounds pretty nasty when I’m into it but pretty soft when just cruising along. I think I’ll keep it. Of course, a pair of ‘71 Monte SS tips will be on order soon.
Kudo’s to the boys at Advanced Induction for the heads, intake and cam. Good fellas!
What’s next? I’d like to setup a delay relay so the fans and water pump run for a short while after shutting down to reduce hot soak. The interior needs a carpet and one seat needs the leather repaired. The body could use some bangin’ and sprayin’, I’m not building another show car here, just a weekend cruiser.
Last edited by Paul Bell; Apr 18, 2006 at 08:56 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,615
Likes: 63
From: NYC
So the car's in the body shop. It looks out of place in a shop usually full of big block ‘vetts. It had a thingie on the left quarter, they've replaced the forward section with new metal. The front end was a little pushed to the left so they pulled it a bit, it's all straight now. The quarter, door, fender and front bumper are getting sprayed today. The left inner fender was busted so a trip to a dealer produced a new one for about 40 bucks. I rented the fender lip roller from Mr. Kevin Fung, nice guy, he lives nearby. The roller worked great! Not as much rolled up as I thought it would but it's enough. After cutting out the rear snubbers, I figured a way to weld in some 3/8 rod coupling nuts to accommodate some new snubbers, I'll try to take some pics and post them. I got the Stainless Steel Brake kit with four slotted rotors and pads, a good deal at Summit for $290.00. I ditched the Hawk pads and used Raybestos Brute Stop pads (my brother was a brake parts rep and these are the ONLY pads I use on anything). I also added the Trans Dapt CAI and a throttle body airfoil. I just switched to the German Castrol 0/30 oil.
Stay tuned!
Stay tuned!
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,615
Likes: 63
From: NYC
Here some shots of what I think is a good idea for usable snubbers with the big wheels/tires. It's a standard A-arm snubber I found at Summit with a 3/8X16 stud. I welded a 3/8 threaded rod coupling nut on the other side of the wheel housings, next to the springs. We pulled the springs to get the exact location located. I have to do some more measurments to see if I need longer snubbers or if these will do the job.
Sorry for the funky colors, I need to find a better JPEG file reduction program.
I know, the rear suspension looks pretty ugly. With time & money, it'll have new componants.
It's a work in progress...
Sorry for the funky colors, I need to find a better JPEG file reduction program.
I know, the rear suspension looks pretty ugly. With time & money, it'll have new componants.
It's a work in progress...
Last edited by Paul Bell; May 17, 2006 at 09:41 PM.
Thumbnail software that is free and is so easy to use you may actually want to give the guy money for it I create 2 folders on my desktop named before and one named after. install the program set the settings. Copy as many jpeg's as you want into folder one and press make and in seconds you will have thumbs. I have done as many as 500 images for a website in just a few minutes.
http://www.fookes.com/ezthumbs/
http://www.fookes.com/ezthumbs/





