Penzoil 10w30 for me

 

I didn't think they made conventional oils in Europe! j/k I seriously don't know what kinda conventionals they make in Europe but I would say Elf has some good choices. They're probably synthetic blends at the least.

 

How many of you have done ANY true research or had used oil analysed? As Buffman said M1 specifically 5w-30 and 10w-30 ARE NOT as good a choice as most of you seem to think they are. If you went to the link Physics posted you could actually LEARN rather than spread ignorance, try it we will all be better off.

 

moble one 5W30....

 

The man asked what was best not what everyone who never did research is using. He is actually trying to learn why don't the rest of you let the FEW of us who have useful input help him.

 

I've always been led to blieve that if you switch from dino to synthetic that the seals will leak because the synth is actually 'slipperier' and will better condition things than the dino oil.

 

Synthetics don't cause the leaks, but if you have a leak already then it could potentially be worse.

 

I have a contact that is both a Drag Racer and a Engineer for GM in Detroit. He did extensive testing of oil. He recommends Mobil 1 0W30 synthetic.
Is that good enough for you? I'm just trying to help jessebuickguy.

 

I wonder how far off Mobil 1 0W40 is from 0W30.

 

You should PM Patman, he is an oil GENIUS and has owned a couple of LT1s (one which hit 13.6 E/Ts bone stock)

He always recommend the German grade Castrol. He has done a million oil analyses and always finds that one to be the best. Any further info though you'll have to get from him.

 

40 is a good bit thicker.

 

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=129120

 

I've never seen 0w30 M1. Of course in Europe that could be totally available.

 

castrol gtx 10w-30

 

Actually, I can prove this... Back when export of cars was big in the 90s to Europe, alot of people over here right away switched to synthetic from dino oil, and this caused alot of them to have leaks.

The reason Ive always been led to believe is because naturally you will have dino oil build up in places (such as around seals) and basically create a seal itself, but when switching to a synthetic, the synthetic will remove this and because it flows better, will leak...

Ive seen leaks happen because of the switch, not sure if thats the right reason for it however. Keep in mind these are on engines that have miles added up on them already, on a lower mile engine there should be no problem.

 

I'm not picking a fight or starting a war or anything like that but I think you proved MY point. You're right, the conventionals gum up and kinda seal things off. But if there hadn't been a leak already, then there wouldn't have been any oil sludge. So point is, a leak is a leak but synthetic tends to leak worse cuz it doesn't sludge.

 

I do not believe that is avaialble anymore though the 0w-40 is thin for a 40wt. and after some use can actually fall to a 30.

How long ago was it that your friend did his testing? Formulas change and enthusiasts doing analysis is the only way to keep up on what is doing the job. Patman is a moderator at the site Physics listed so AGAIN I point you there where not only can you get the benifit of his knowledge but you can see the database that helps him come to those conclusions.

 

had been using mobil 1 but tossed in some royal purple the last time i changed it a month ago but maybe i might talk to Patman bout that german grade castrol

 

The German Castrol (green) changed its formulation, so the good stuff is no longer available. The new German Castrol might be good, but I don't believe anyone has done oil analysis in an LT1 with it yet.

 

Still available.

http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/Mo...l_1_0W-30.aspx