balancer hub ??
balancer hub ?? im having trouble getting the balancer hub on to the crank.... the issue is i dont remember the crank being keyed when i took it in for the rebuild and now it is.... there is no slot on the hub for the key to slide into either... any ideas
EDIT: ok i figured out the key thing its a pressfit for my car unless you have the keyed hub, which i dont, so how the hell do you get it on i tried and it just pushed the key off earlier today
EDIT: ok i figured out the key thing its a pressfit for my car unless you have the keyed hub, which i dont, so how the hell do you get it on i tried and it just pushed the key off earlier today
I hope someone replies to this. I haven't started my reassembly yet, but I know I'll run into the same problem. I ordered a keyed one from GM, I screwed up my old one. Long story, don't 
and do mechanic work.
and do mechanic work. 
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 520
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My crank was keyed for the hub (when I removed the hub) however, the hub itself is not keyed. I brought number 1 piston to TDC and installed the hub with the triangle marking straight up. Three wacks with a deadblow hammer and the hub was bottomed out on my crank.
If the engine is in the car using a deadblow would not be an option due to space constraints; so I would use some 7/16" 20 all thread and some nuts to pull it on. To lessen the possibility of stripping the crank threads.
KENT MOORE makes a tool that is designed to remove and install the hub. It is pricey, but I am a SNAP-ON junky so it is not in my tool box.
On another note a friend of mine is in the middle of his LT1 build, and he was against me using a hammer on my the hub. However, his shortblock is being professionally built and he called me after our disagreement to inform me that his builder installed his balancer with a BFH.
Mike
If the engine is in the car using a deadblow would not be an option due to space constraints; so I would use some 7/16" 20 all thread and some nuts to pull it on. To lessen the possibility of stripping the crank threads.
KENT MOORE makes a tool that is designed to remove and install the hub. It is pricey, but I am a SNAP-ON junky so it is not in my tool box.
On another note a friend of mine is in the middle of his LT1 build, and he was against me using a hammer on my the hub. However, his shortblock is being professionally built and he called me after our disagreement to inform me that his builder installed his balancer with a BFH.
Mike
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 216
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From: North Star, Ohio
I would never take an engine to a guy who beats a harmonic balancer on. Anyone who knows engines knows thats hard on the thrust face of the main bearings and will open the clearances up and possible causing issues later on. well i found out what the deal was on stock LT1's they provide for a key slot on the crank however they dont put a key in it.... its just a press fit so i just took the key out and put the hub on the way it was supposed to.... from stock the only thing holding your hub to the crank is a pressfit we will see if it holds up i will get a keyed hub in the next month or so just for safety's sake
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 144
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From: st. pete fla
Originally Posted by Texas_TA
well i found out what the deal was on stock LT1's they provide for a key slot on the crank however they dont put a key in it.... its just a press fit so i just took the key out and put the hub on the way it was supposed to.... from stock the only thing holding your hub to the crank is a pressfit we will see if it holds up i will get a keyed hub in the next month or so just for safety's sake
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Late last year, I bought a bunch of stuff from More Performance and I recall seeing a keyed balancer hub that you could use the key with. HOWEVER, I can't seem to get their website up at this time. Also, I thought they were a ls1 website advertiser and they're not listed. How did I find them before?? I had bought my vented opti and new timing cover from them.
ANYWAY... the balancer hub is a press fit and the triangular pointer matches the crankshaft timing dot. The balancer itself has three non-matched bolt locations to the hub so it only goes on way.
For reasons listed above, DON'T beat the hub on, use a proper balancer installer.
I can't imagine any situation where the hub may twist on the crank but having a key in it is a bit of extra insurance
ANYWAY... the balancer hub is a press fit and the triangular pointer matches the crankshaft timing dot. The balancer itself has three non-matched bolt locations to the hub so it only goes on way.
For reasons listed above, DON'T beat the hub on, use a proper balancer installer.
I can't imagine any situation where the hub may twist on the crank but having a key in it is a bit of extra insurance
Last edited by Paul Bell; Apr 10, 2006 at 10:42 PM.
Originally Posted by 94Z396
Why not use a ATI balancer rather than using a stock hug?
Originally Posted by Paul Bell
For reasons listed above, DON'T beat the hub on, use a proper balancer installer.
