Well the engine has arrived at the builder!!!!


Now its time to order some parts, i had a 3200 stall on her for a 383 which is now pending sale. I have a few ideas on what size i would like to go with.

Here ARE my limits:

*Streetability
*Strip
*There will be a small shot of Juice in the future, for now i want an N/A stall.
*And i dont care if its loose, my 3200 was a **** loose!! I like it.

I sent fuddle a request form and they said 3000 for my stall, thats way to low.

I was thinking a Fuddle 3600/3800 or even a Yank.

I dont know if 3800 is to big for Daily Driving, i shouldnt be driving to far and the lockup will most likely be around 40.

Thanks.

 

I am running a 3-3200 on mine...cuts 1.5 60's NA

 

Put it on a dyno with a stock stall. See where your torque peak is and then decide what stall. Most people usually build a stall about 15 % lower than the torque peak. For nitrous you want to even tighten up a little more. So say if your torque peak is 4800 rpms.............a 4000 stall for n/a and about a 3800 for nitrous would work well. This is kinda the rule of thumb but every car can respond a little different.

 

I am nothing but happy with my 3400 Edge racing converter, my car pulls harder at idle than my wife's STOCK '03 Impala. If you go with a GOOD converter you can have a 2800+ stall and great drivability together.

www.edgeracingconverters.com if you give him a chance Andre will treat you well. Edge has a BIG following on the b-body side of the LT1 our weight means a lot of abuse on the whole drivetrain too so these are proven strong.

 

I made the same comment last time about the dyno. I think you pretty much hit it on the head. I'm going with a Yank 4000 2.4STR.

 

I don't think 3800 is too big, unless you have problems with the computer. Does anyone know if that problem affected 93s or just 94-95?

 

High stall problem effected OBD-1's. Dont fear the stall. Alot of guys here are running big stalls and loving it. Go to small and youll regret it inside. Get what's best for your application but dont let fear decide for you.

 

He said it better than I could. I chose a Vig 3200 because I knew on spray it would flash at 3800/900. 3200 is nice if you cruise it on the street at all.

 

cruising shouldnt be a issue with a lockup converter.

 

problem with that is that the LT1 usually makes peak torque very low, like 2500-2800. So if you go by that, you will have a really small stall.

 

couple guys local with big cube sbc have 3000 stall...cut 1.4 60' with 3.23 in a 10 bolt on d/r full weight

 

wouldnt that depend on the cam also?

 

Who told you that? 90% of all the LT1's I have tuned and built over all these year the torque peak is between 3800-4800 rpms. This varies due to cam selection and heads. Let me see your dyno graph. I may can believe that if it is a bone stock engine.

 

Yeah I guess it would be higher on built engines. Most of the stockish graphs I've seen it's on the low side (around 2500).

ex: http://ws6.com/mod-1.htm

 

Yet guys still go faster with 3000+stalls on stock motors .

Converters are all dependant on the guy specing the internal parts, there is a lot more too it than just the stall we all get hung up on. Much like there is MUCH more to cams than just the lift or duration everyone speaks of.

 

Caprice I understand exactly what your saying. I think im going to keep my 3200 in and dyno it then go from there. Sounds like thats the best way to choose a stall on a built engine.

Tony.

 

lol. I told you that the very first time you made a post like this and you ignored me. lol anyways, good luck. I'm going through the same things you are right now trying to pick the right stuff for my combo. Starts to get stressfull after a while.

 

meh, i dont remember that, my bad.

Yea the getting things right the first time is getting to be a PITA as of right about now. But do it right once and dont do it again.

Tony.