Car wont roll over??? HELP!!!!!!!!!
hmm. maybe its only certain cars... most GM cars just disables the fuel pump.. had one do it just the other day on a 2000 camaro...even though it was only a sixer...
the starter is good, i was told that it could be the neutral saftey switch?? the inline booster is just one of them t-rex boosters and its wired to the fuel pump harness plu in the rear. The car is an auto. I double checked my connections at the starter. You check the purple wire for power at the starter correct?
yea, it should be a 12 volt reference... so when you turn the key and have someone take a reading, it should be around 12v... yea and giggle the shifter unit around and make sure your in park... it that doesnt work, put it in nuetral and try that...
ok well i tried to replace the neutral safety switch and that wasnt it either, so im taking that back since its easy to take out, im running out of ideas and id like to believe its the VATS, now i measured the resistance in OHMS like the SHbox diagram says and it was just below 6. How do i know what my key should be? Any more sugg would be great
see, thats what your doing wrong... your buying parts before testing... your wasting your money doing that... do the testing and find out whats wrong then buy parts..
did you check the 12v at the purple wire on the starter while trying to start the car???
did you check the 12v at the purple wire on the starter while trying to start the car???
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Verdad Gallardo i jumped the starter with a snub screw driver just to make sure and it turned over just fine. I just got done trying the vats bypass and that didnt seem to work either, i bought a assortment of resistors and had my tested and it tested at 2.98k. Tried that combo resis and nothing, and im realizing that my fp is not coming on either. I thought it was.......IM STUMPED, its just me working on this so i dont have someone to turn the key and test at the same time
you say that the starter isnt turning over at all correct??? plug everything back up normally and disconnect the new fuel pump just for testing and see what happens.
well it was one of them walbro inline boosters. And i put everything back to normal, i dont know if it grounded something or whats going on but im fearing im going to have to take it to someone. If my key was bad, wouldnt bypassing the vats still let it work?
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 607
Likes: 1
From: Anna, OH
Originally Posted by xxxtreme36
well it was one of them walbro inline boosters. And i put everything back to normal, i dont know if it grounded something or whats going on but im fearing im going to have to take it to someone. If my key was bad, wouldnt bypassing the vats still let it work?
if you had the right setting in the resistor... sometimes it has to be just right to work... take it to a shop and have them check for codes and see whats in there..
Do you have a aftermarket alarm? I have seen alot of problems with aftermarket alarms. Also to rule out the VATS, unhook the VATS harness inder the dash. There should be to small white wires in a orange cover(not sure though)..Don't do the AIRBAG harness!
Take you Volt Meter and have it set on OHMS. Take each test lead and place it on each of the white wires going to the keyswitch. Put your key in the ignition. Take a ohms reading, then turn the key to ON and then to START...take another reading. If NOTHING is showing(or changes between no key and with the key installed) on the meter with the key in off,on, and start. Then more than likely the small VATS wires in the keylock cylinder broke. They rub the lock cylinder when cycling the key and will break.
If you don't want to do that(TESTING), then pop the lock cylinder out and see if the white wires are broke.
Take you Volt Meter and have it set on OHMS. Take each test lead and place it on each of the white wires going to the keyswitch. Put your key in the ignition. Take a ohms reading, then turn the key to ON and then to START...take another reading. If NOTHING is showing(or changes between no key and with the key installed) on the meter with the key in off,on, and start. Then more than likely the small VATS wires in the keylock cylinder broke. They rub the lock cylinder when cycling the key and will break.
If you don't want to do that(TESTING), then pop the lock cylinder out and see if the white wires are broke.
no the car is def not running or doing much of anything............ its not throwing any codes and i had the key checked with a digital meter and it was the 2.98k reading, so i put it a resistor for that with 5% allowance. If it had codes i could check that, i have access to a snap on solice scanner. But nothing odd is coming up
thanks for the info JPATI, im gonna go and check that right now
thanks for the info JPATI, im gonna go and check that right now
ok i hooked the ohm meter up to the white wires, and when i put the key in, it went to almost 5 (analog meter), then when i turn the key to on and run it stayed in the same spot, almost 5. is it safe to say that its not the VATS or what should i be looking for. Like i said, my fuel pump is not priming either
ok so i just noticed that when i turn the key forward, all of the dash comes on EXCEPT the ses and security light, they dont even blink and the car doesnt ding when you open the door and the key is in the ign all the way.
also, ive noticed that when i turn my key to the on position, the lighting for my dual guage pod doesnt come on, the guages will work, but the lighting will not. They should come on when the key is on.
also, ive noticed that when i turn my key to the on position, the lighting for my dual guage pod doesnt come on, the guages will work, but the lighting will not. They should come on when the key is on.
Last edited by xxxtreme36; Jul 9, 2006 at 06:35 PM.
ok i got an update with pos news, i replaced the pcm ign fuse and the car fired right up, down side: the fuse blew about 5 secs after the car started, so is something grounding itself out?
check what you did. Double check the wiring around where you were working(Fuel pump). Make sure you didn't pinch a wiring causing the short. Maybe unhook the inline pump and see if the fuse still blows after a few seconds.