Rich005

I'm pullin my hair out over this ......The car is 97 camaro Z28. canadian car i believe but not 100% on that (if it even makes a difference). The only modification on the MAF sensor is the removal of the air screen infront of the sensor wires themselves. So far ive replaced the EGR valve, PCV valve, TPS sensor, TPS harness, and Computer. The kid i bought the car from is a ***** aparently he ran nitrous on the car which he neglected to inform me when i purchased it from him. The car is running rich b/c of the failsafe mode so its is taking a tole on the sparkplugs i believe. Sometimes the car will get stuck at idle w/ clutch in at 2, 000 rpm and normally it sits around 1200 or 1500 rpms, which cant be right either. Also i found a pair of O2 Simulators on the bottom side of the exaust system (downstream) i removed them but it had made no difference. The only code the car seems to show is the MAF sensor code. And since ive replaced it 2 times already with a new factory MAF (unmodified), as well as tried a a granatelli that i borrowed from a friends car, i dont know what to do with it. Any help at all would be much MUCH appreciated!!

Thanks guys!!

burnzilla

iTrader: (3)

All Fbodies were built in Canada. ALL.

That can also be bad. The build up of burnt oil makes the gaskets lifespan shrink miserably. A motor is not meant to burn oil. It can also clog and make the engine run hotter than normal, which in turn, loses HP.

When your car is ice cold (several hours of not running) It still shoudn't idle much over 1000 RPMs, maybe for a moment.
It should idle completely warm @ 700 rpms. ( Stock PCM Setting )

Does the car have aftermarket exhaust manifolds ( headers )

Take out the Granatelli. Its a bullshit item. Ive actually heard stories of it making cars run rich or lean, and even people losing power.
The Stock MAF are good for over 400 hp.

I'd type more but have to go to sleep, got two long classes tomorrow then work.
Its 2:30 AM here and I have to wake up @ 7:00 AM.
to be continued....

Rich005

the manifolds are still stock, and i've also heard/read that the granatelli is BS. so i have the factory unmodified MAF in it. I check all the wiring running to the MAF to see if any of them were burnt or cracked and I found nothing. Is there a way that i can test the MAF with a multimeter, if so, what should the readings be? Everytime I pull the codes from the computer its a MAF code, thats why I was wondering if maybe it was the MAF....thanks again!!

wicked_95z

iTrader: (8)

does it give you a "MAF" code or a "MAF circuit" code? What code are you getting? There are a couple of things you can check out. On the MAF connector there should be 3 wires. The black one is ground, the red one is reference voltage( not sure if its 5 or 12 VDC), and the third is yellow I think(This is the wire where the MAF sensor sends it info to the pcm). So if you get a ground on the black wire and a 5 or 12 vdc on the red you are 2/3 of the way good. i think the only thing you can do for the 3rd wire is check contiuity from the MAF connector to the PCM, unless you can measure frequency with your multimeter

Rich005

I have a fluke that can measure frequency, i'd have to read up a bit, its been a while since i've done it, but i'll check black and red for ground and reference and yellow for continuity in the mean time. I'll get back here asap with the actual code. thanks!