Still overheating problems....
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On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: jackassville Florida
Still overheating problems.... Ok this car is pushing its limits. Specs are 94 Z28 with 97 T/A motor, around 40k on the clock and a 3500 stall. I put a 180 thermo in it about 6 months ago in hopes and thinking it would resolve the problem. Less than a week ago I installed a new CSR Electric water pump. This seems to keep things cool for a little while, but eventually it creeps up to 230-240'sh or at least that's what the gauge is reading. It creeps up slowly like with highway speeds, then when you come to a stop the gauge doesnt seem to go up or down. So now with the EWP we'll turn the key to the start position to let the pump and fans cycle and cool the damn thing down. I DO have a fan switch and at this rate we leave them kicked on high at all times. It does take a descent bit of driving before it starts getting above 210. Any ideas 
Maybe put a new 160 thermo in there from pep girls or something?
I also noticed the air scoop under the front end of the car was starting to come loose and looked a little bent up from to many curb confrontations, could this be fuxoring things?
One of the things that strike me as odd with the Stock temp gauge. Is with the car running persay it's reading 210. When I turn the car off then put the key back to the "start" position to let the fans and Water pump cycle, it drops like 10'sh degree's. I know the stock temp gauges are duds to begin with but that makes no sense.
Maybe put a new 160 thermo in there from pep girls or something?I also noticed the air scoop under the front end of the car was starting to come loose and looked a little bent up from to many curb confrontations, could this be fuxoring things?
One of the things that strike me as odd with the Stock temp gauge. Is with the car running persay it's reading 210. When I turn the car off then put the key back to the "start" position to let the fans and Water pump cycle, it drops like 10'sh degree's.
I know the stock temp gauges are duds to begin with but that makes no sense. Last edited by studlybilly; Jul 20, 2006 at 02:23 PM.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: jackassville Florida
Originally Posted by lt1 97 formula
Your air damn could easily be making the difference, try replacing it.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: jackassville Florida
Originally Posted by MrBill97396
Air Damn replacement and temp sensor try that out in that order.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Feb 2006
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I have the same problem as you, EWP, coolant nice and full, 160 thermo, programmed fans, clean radiator (had it flushed). I'm just gonna break down and buy one of those becool radiators. temps here in south texas has been over a 100 the past month and 1/2.
Originally Posted by studlybilly
Now by temp sensor do you mean the sending unit for the stock gauge? Will that make it accurate again or accurate enough or will I still need to pop an autometer in there?
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Launching!
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 284
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From: Hebron, Oh
I am having this same problem with the exception that I have a 160 stat. I drive home from work, and it runs normal temp that it always has with the 160 stat. If I get on the car, starts to heat up and does not want to cool back down. Go home and park the car, come back out and drive it, and the low coolant light comes on. Has done this the last three days. I installed a csr water pump a few months back also. I know the low coolant sensors are known to act up, but it only comes on after I shut the car down then come back out and drive it. Radiator is full as well as the overflow. I am wondering if this EWP is just not working as efficient as the stock unit. I just don't understand why the low coolant light comes on only after I shut the car down and then drive it again. Seems like it only wants to heat up right after I get on the car. I am in the Dallas area, and I know it is hot as hell, but this car has never run this hot with the 160 stat in the summer until I have had this EWP. I guess it is possible I have other issues, but the radiator is only about 6 months old and I flushed the system with the radiator swap.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: jackassville Florida
Originally Posted by rkinney
I am having this same problem with the exception that I have a 160 stat. I drive home from work, and it runs normal temp that it always has with the 160 stat. If I get on the car, starts to heat up and does not want to cool back down. Go home and park the car, come back out and drive it, and the low coolant light comes on. Has done this the last three days. I installed a csr water pump a few months back also. I know the low coolant sensors are known to act up, but it only comes on after I shut the car down then come back out and drive it. Radiator is full as well as the overflow. I am wondering if this EWP is just not working as efficient as the stock unit. I just don't understand why the low coolant light comes on only after I shut the car down and then drive it again. Seems like it only wants to heat up right after I get on the car. I am in the Dallas area, and I know it is hot as hell, but this car has never run this hot with the 160 stat in the summer until I have had this EWP. I guess it is possible I have other issues, but the radiator is only about 6 months old and I flushed the system with the radiator swap.
On The Tree
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From: Gilbert, AZ
Radiator cap You might want to check the radiator cap as well; mine was running a little too warm for comfort 220-240, picked up a new radiator cap and it's back to normal now...as normal as it can get here in Phoenix, 115 today.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: jackassville Florida
Well tightened up the front air dam. Put a new temperature sending unit on the head. GF drove the $hit out of it yesterday and she said it stayed just under the half-way mark, with a 180 t-stat I can't complain. So maybe the gauge sending unit was at fault. I'm going to use some of that take home radiator flush stuff to make sure everything is clean in there. So far so good, thanks guys.
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 39
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From: Lubbock
Yeah, I live in Lubbock,Tx and my coolant light comes on after about 25 minutes of driving and the won't get much colder than the 1/2 mark on the thermostat
Anybody else see the pattern of everyone's overheating problems being that we are having hot *** weather in our particular states? Damn global warming.
Anybody else see the pattern of everyone's overheating problems being that we are having hot *** weather in our particular states? Damn global warming.
