LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

bolt on LT1 guys with 4.10s inside.

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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 07:37 PM
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Default bolt on LT1 guys with 4.10s inside.

when you run the 1/4, do you run out of gear? or are you maxin out 4th?
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 08:03 PM
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if you are running out of gear maybe try getting taller tires
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 08:06 PM
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i dont have gears yet, but im worried if i get 4.10s i will run out of 4th gear. in which case ide get 3.73's. im just trying to decide which would be better for the 1/4
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 08:18 PM
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You won't run out of gear, just maybe out of cam. If that happens, then just do a cam or H/C swap with something that will pull past 6k rpm.
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 08:45 PM
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running 4.33s/26" tall tires and not running out of gear with the M6, ie pulling 4th after the 1/8th mile.
Tons of people run it, go for it!!! Even with an A4, 4.10s are the gear to have!!

Pull the RPM on the top end, it works!
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 09:59 PM
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Depends on your mods and shift points/rev limiter. I can tell you when my car had only bolt ons and 4.10's, I would run 12.8's @ 109mph in my 6spd and I still had some room in 4th at the end of the 1/4. That is with stock shift points and rev limiter set to 6k rpm. There is a calculator floating around the net that lets you determine max MPH given certain gears. I seem to remember that 4.10's were good up to around 112mph with the stock rev limiter.
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbo_6
Depends on your mods and shift points/rev limiter. I can tell you when my car had only bolt ons and 4.10's, I would run 12.8's @ 109mph in my 6spd and I still had some room in 4th at the end of the 1/4. That is with stock shift points and rev limiter set to 6k rpm. There is a calculator floating around the net that lets you determine max MPH given certain gears. I seem to remember that 4.10's were good up to around 112mph with the stock rev limiter.
thats what i wanted to hear!

i have the stock limiter now.

with H/C can you rev higher safeley? or do you need built internals.
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 12:35 AM
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I have yet to get to the track but I am an A4 and from the research I have done....4.10s should be fine. At the most you may have to tune for a higher rev limiter to give yourself a little room. But maybe not. Run it and see how the cars fall.
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 01:26 AM
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In a stick you have nothing to worry about.

I ran my A4 T/A with 4.10s and it ran great too.

The only thing you have to worry about is *traction*
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 02:19 AM
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4.10s in A4 here. No problems.
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by seawolf06
You won't run out of gear, just maybe out of cam. If that happens, then just do a cam or H/C swap with something that will pull past 6k rpm.

This is a valid statement.

The speed at 6000 RPM will be about 110-112 or so. A full bolt on car will not reach that kind of trap speed in the quarter mile if you are in 4th using 4.10 gears.

Again with stock heads and camshaft LT1, there is very little usable power in 4th above 5300 RPM, therefore you cant run out of gear per say although its possible to run out of cam.

Another way to say it is if you run 4.10's on a bolt on LT1, your engine will overshoot its maximum usable power band going through the traps. Now if you can at the least put a bigger cam in you will move the usable powerband upwards to work better with the 4.10's.

I think that the 3.73's are better suited for best possible 1/4 mile times with a bolt on LT1 overall. The 4.10's will help better down low and the 3.73's will keep the engine in the powerband through the traps.

But the 4.10's would still be more fun to drive when not racing. To really gain the best 1/4 performance from the 4.10's you need a bigger cam at the very least.
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 11:46 AM
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This is not a valid statement
FULL Bolt on car can trap 112-115
FULL Bolt on car can turn 6400ish and run the number
FULL Bolt on car runs VERY well with 4.33s and an M6
4.33s are real fun on the street

Originally Posted by wrd1972
This is a valid statement.

The speed at 6000 RPM will be about 110-112 or so. A full bolt on car will not reach that kind of trap speed in the quarter mile if you are in 4th using 4.10 gears.

Again with stock heads and camshaft LT1, there is very little usable power in 4th above 5300 RPM, therefore you cant run out of gear per say although its possible to run out of cam.

Another way to say it is if you run 4.10's on a bolt on LT1, your engine will overshoot its maximum usable power band going through the traps. Now if you can at the least put a bigger cam in you will move the usable powerband upwards to work better with the 4.10's.

I think that the 3.73's are better suited for best possible 1/4 mile times with a bolt on LT1 overall. The 4.10's will help better down low and the 3.73's will keep the engine in the powerband through the traps.

But the 4.10's would still be more fun to drive when not racing. To really gain the best 1/4 performance from the 4.10's you need a bigger cam at the very least.
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Shon Herron
This is not a valid statement
FULL Bolt on car can trap 112-115
FULL Bolt on car can turn 6400ish and run the number
FULL Bolt on car runs VERY well with 4.33s and an M6
4.33s are real fun on the street
Okay,
Please show me a timeslip with a bolt-on LT1 trapping 112+ WITHOUT a power adder.
The topic is not about 4.33 gears.
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 01:50 PM
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idk what i trap yet, i was trapping 103, but i had a missfire so idk where ill be now. im hoping 105-107ish. and i was planning on putting a cam in this winter so maybe ill hold off on the gears. gears would just be 1 step closer to blowin the rear anyway.
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by wrd1972
Okay,
Please show me a timeslip with a bolt-on LT1 trapping 112+ WITHOUT a power adder.
The topic is not about 4.33 gears.
see attached pdf file showing 113+, I got much more 112+.
You can do a search on my screen name and let me know if you need the pdf file and if you do cool if not cool. If you want all over 112 that will take a little more time to scan.

BTW, if you want to pull the MPH run the gear to get you the RPM needed. That is where the 4.33s come into play. and in reality, this is about gearing.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
timeslips.pdf (78.6 KB, 224 views)

Last edited by Shon Herron; Sep 11, 2006 at 02:12 PM.
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 02:27 PM
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Shon, nice times.. what all is done to your car? i have an M6 and i just got 4.10's but they're not in yet. i am hoping to see an improvement in the 1/4 mile, but overall i just want a better/ more fun car for the street
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by dannyz28
Shon, nice times.. what all is done to your car?
Race weight of 3100#s with 230# driver. Suspension done right, headers/y-pipe, 52mmTB, CAI. Nothing out of the ordinary, all you guys have the same stuff.

Tricks:
Get the weight out of the car
Get a dang good driver
Go to a track that is prepped; Thanks Carolina Dragway
Go when the DA is LOW, negative is better than positive
Put a good tune in it.
HANG ON!
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by wrd1972
Okay,
Please show me a timeslip with a bolt-on LT1 trapping 112+ WITHOUT a power adder.
The topic is not about 4.33 gears.

I saw this coming from a mile away

Shawn's stuff definitely runs the hardest of any bolt-on LT1 I have ever seen. It's very light, but still is an amazing LT1 bolt-on car !

I will throw my two cents into the deal just for validity sake ! My car is a FULL WEIGHT (3515) WS6, 6spd with 4:11's (MOSER) and every bolt-on you can do. I Ran a 12.61 @ 109 mph (slicks) with room to go higher in the RPM band. The car is shifted like a ritual around 6100 to 6200 and always runs better at those shift points as opposed to lowering it down around 5700/5800 (car is slower at those rpm shifts). My car peaked at 5800 making 323 rwhp / 343 rwtq and maintained 310 rwhp out to 6100 rpm's on a stock cam and heads (2002). With all of that being said, I ran my ET almost 4 years ago and the car is even faster than it was that long ago. I'm pretty sure the car will go 12.30/40's @ 110/111 no problem with the stock heads and cam at 3500 lbs (car is making more power now, new tricks).

Back to the regular programming,

YES, do the 4:11's (MOSER) or 4:10's if your using a 10 bolt.

Have fun with the gears !
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Shon Herron
see attached pdf file showing 113+, I got much more 112+.
You can do a search on my screen name and let me know if you need the pdf file and if you do cool if not cool. If you want all over 112 that will take a little more time to scan.

BTW, if you want to pull the MPH run the gear to get you the RPM needed. That is where the 4.33s come into play. and in reality, this is about gearing.

Yes those are extremely fast times & MPH for a bolt-on LT1. I have never seen anyone hit high 11's on a bolt-on LT1. If thats the case then congrats and how about posting your specs.

By and large most people with bolt-on LT1's claim they hit low 13's and high 12's on average which wont get you 113+ in the traps. I can only assume that you have the engine tuned perfectly, you have decreased weight in major way and are a very good driver.

Please dont think I am calling "bullshit", but there must be more to the story than stating that your bolt-on only LT1 can hit high 11's.

I still stand by my statement that 98% plus bolt-on LT1's can not trap 113+ MPH with 4.10's.

Last edited by wrd1972; Sep 11, 2006 at 02:54 PM.
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by wrd1972
Yes those are extremely fast times & MPH for a bolt-on LT1. I have never seen anyone hit high 11's on a bolt-on LT1. If thats the case then congrats and how about posting your specs.
Thanks.

Originally Posted by wrd1972
By and large most people with bolt-on LT1's claim they hit low 13's and high 12's on average which wont get you 113+ in the traps. I can only assume that you have the engine tuned perfectly, you have decreased weight in major way and are a very good driver.
The car has never been on a dyno or WBO2. I tuned it at the track and know it was still rich, still had the stock PE tables
Russ Ethridge was the driver of the M6 and he can flat out drive a manual car. And most runs were done with a stock replacement clutch, the 11.80 run was made with a spec stage 3 disc and stock PP/FW. and that disc was for a Mustang at 10.x" rather than the LT1 11.x" so it wasnt even making full contact with the FW
Weight is 3100#s as stated above and anyone can duplicate this set up if they are willing to go the extra mile.
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