justindavis

ya but. unfortunatly in your case it matters. do you want to get to a gas station or be able to pass one? i wouldnt do anything to the heads .. unless ported. god knows the lt1 suffers from heat stroke anyways. but as for the cam i would go 503 bro. check out THUNDERRACING.COM . thats all they do F-BODYS

GIZMO

iTrader: (8)

There is quite a bit of performance to be gained by blueprinting a set of factory heads. A correct three angle valve job and good aftermarket valves make a difference. A good set of legal Stock Eliminator heads (unported) will cost from $1,000.00-$2,000.00 including valves. The old saying, "You get what you pay for" holds true for cylinder heads too. I have tried a bunch of different combinations in my LT1's and have stacks of experiments sitting around. My stuff works well for a reason.

Daren

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

so Mr. Gizmo, what heads do you got? And should i just use the stock heads and put no money into them until i can buy a good set? And how much, if any, will stock heads flow if i did 3-angle the stock valves?

GIZMO

iTrader: (8)

I run factory head castings with a three angle valve job and good replacement valves (350 ci LT1, mid tens @ 3200 lbs, N/A in the 1/4).
Not knowing anything about your current performance and future goals I really can't tell you exactly what to do next. Most of the parts that you have listed in your signature are "compromise parts". They are great for a quick street car, but If you are trying to build a really strong stock cube LT1 race car you have pretty much all of the wrong stuff.

Daren

ToxicTA

Not trying to nit pick your thread. I did answer the question but it will be the last time I give you my opinion. Being the racer that you are you must know the difference between Street/Strip and Strip Only.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

ok, to solve it all. Its a car that i drive on the weekends and take it to the track. Call it as you will i guess. Street/strip, just shorted it in the other thread to a strip car. IMO its bascially the same thing. And how do i have bascially all the wrong stuff? I got a geared rearend, strong trans and stall, weight loss and no acc. to make it run efficent. I dont think i got "all the wrong stuff", im building it for when i do the motor everything will hold up. And as it sits, it beats ls1's, so IMO i dont have all the wrong stuff, just doing otherthings first before a strong motor.

GIZMO

iTrader: (8)

Didn't mean to make you mad. It seems that when you are done you will have a really nice street car.

Take Care,

Daren

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

No, really Daren. I know your just saying that, but seriousely, why do you say its the wrong set-up? I built a nice drivetrain to hold up to future mods correct? I dont see how thats totally wrong for a strong ci motor. If im wrong let me know what to do next?

GIZMO

iTrader: (8)

If you go back and read my post you will see that I said you have the wrong parts for a stock cube race motor. You have never stated what your final goals are. But, going back to your original topic, yes you can make good power cam only. You just have to decide what you really want. The cams that you suggested could probably be optimized with more gear, more stall, and better headers. Take a look at some of the cam only LS1 specs. on this forum. There are reasons that they are so fast and it's not just the "Mighty LS1". It really all depends on what your final goals are.

Daren

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

ok, cool. Well basically i dont got the 2k for heads. I can do a cam for a few hundred bucks, ya know. Now i know a lot of cams are for emissions and what not. Now considering i dont have it, i think i can pick up a cam with better specs for better power. I emailed LE, but he never got back to me. So what other cams can i look at or got any numbers i can call to get a custom grind cam? And food for thought... i beat my buddys 13.0 ls1 trans am, so i think im on a good start so far with my mods. Get a cam in my car and ill be set.