355 LT1 built for boost
355 LT1 built for boost Guys, I have some questions on building a 355 LT1 for alot of boost. Somewhere in the 18 to 22lb range for a turbo project. First question, is it possible to put this much boost on a 355 LT1 with well chosen performance parts ? I'm in the process of locating a bare LT1 block to start building the bottom end. What happens if I take the block out to 357 CI, does this present any problem with bore or stroke and durability of running that much boost or should I try to keep the clean-up on bore to a minimum (.10 over). I'm starting off with some real simple questions, so I can figure out the basics of what I can and can't do with a small cube big boost application. This site has the best info of any that I frequent and look forward to your input and help 
Anybody who would like to provide me with a basic outline of what they would do first to the block to prepare for this type of HP assault on engine internals please speak up 
Anybody who would like to provide me with a basic outline of what they would do first to the block to prepare for this type of HP assault on engine internals please speak up So, obviously I would have to splay the block. What do you suggest price and product for splaying. Do most machine shops work with block filling as a normal practice or do I need to seek out specific shops to block fill, how much money to have a shop do block fill service ? I'm also under the assumption that I can use any 1994 through 1997 LT1 bare-block (The car is a 1996 LT1,6-spd). Does anyone have any suggestions for machine shops to start doing the basics to the block.
SStroker Ace
Any recomendations on what MFG's splayed main caps I should use. I assume ARP fasteners will be correct for this build. What kind of $'s will block filling cost ( give me a ball park ).
Any recomendations on what MFG's splayed main caps I should use. I assume ARP fasteners will be correct for this build. What kind of $'s will block filling cost ( give me a ball park ).
The best ones I have found are ProGram.... i've used Oliver which are nice, Eagle which are cheap and show it. You need to replace the splayed bolts that come with them....
Block fill shouldn't be too much, it's just a $40 gallon of stuff and labor time before and machine work is done to the block.
Bret
Block fill shouldn't be too much, it's just a $40 gallon of stuff and labor time before and machine work is done to the block.
Bret
Thanks for the info on the block fill. What will a good set of Oliver's cost me and do we have any vendors that can give me a good deal. I'm assuming that ARP bolts will be fine to replace the splay bolts ?
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I wouldnt do a full fill of the block, only half fill it. This being because you will want to street drive it im sure 
I have ProGrams on my 383, and ARP studs.
No fill at all. Maybe I should have had it done... We'll see.
Are you planning on building the motor your self?
Not sure where your located, but if you give Harold @ Port Pros (Austin TX) a call, he can setup your block, shortblock, complete motor, whatever... 512-257-0222 tell him Justin Daniels sent you for a good deal!
As far as bore... Ive seen people go as far as .040 overbore with half filled water jackets on high HP boosted apps... I would not go more than .030 without at least a half fill on the block.
I have ProGrams on my 383, and ARP studs.
No fill at all. Maybe I should have had it done... We'll see.
Are you planning on building the motor your self?
Not sure where your located, but if you give Harold @ Port Pros (Austin TX) a call, he can setup your block, shortblock, complete motor, whatever... 512-257-0222 tell him Justin Daniels sent you for a good deal!
As far as bore... Ive seen people go as far as .040 overbore with half filled water jackets on high HP boosted apps... I would not go more than .030 without at least a half fill on the block.
Fire67 & SStrokerAce,
So you guys say half fill the block. Are there any negatives to half filling the block if I'm driving the car mostly on the street. The car will definitely be a street warrior with some limited drag strip action. I really think I will do a 355, extra cubes just don't seem to be worth the effort in my application. What site sponsors offer the PRO-Gram splayed caps ? I actually live in Dallas, so Austin would not be to far to deliver the block for work. HPE was another shop I was thinking about calling to do the shortblock. I know they have a good amount of experience with boosted LTx applications (Big Rick ). Does anyone have any recommendations for shops in the Dallas/Fort Worth area ?
So you guys say half fill the block. Are there any negatives to half filling the block if I'm driving the car mostly on the street. The car will definitely be a street warrior with some limited drag strip action. I really think I will do a 355, extra cubes just don't seem to be worth the effort in my application. What site sponsors offer the PRO-Gram splayed caps ? I actually live in Dallas, so Austin would not be to far to deliver the block for work. HPE was another shop I was thinking about calling to do the shortblock. I know they have a good amount of experience with boosted LTx applications (Big Rick
). Does anyone have any recommendations for shops in the Dallas/Fort Worth area ? Actually, with a half fill, the motor usually runs cooler, as the coolant isnt being exposed to the heat of the oil thats down in the bottom of the motor... Oil temps may climb a little bit because of this, but the rest of the engine will stay cooler.
Since you'll be doing alot of street miles, the half fill will only add to the durability of the motor. The only negative I can imagine would be the fact that the oil MAY run hotter. But if its even close to being a problem, you can always install an oil cooler.
As far as where to buy those ProGram main caps, just google it and buy'em direct from the manufacturer. Even if a sponsor carried them, I doubt they would save you much money if any at all.
Since you'll be doing alot of street miles, the half fill will only add to the durability of the motor. The only negative I can imagine would be the fact that the oil MAY run hotter. But if its even close to being a problem, you can always install an oil cooler.
As far as where to buy those ProGram main caps, just google it and buy'em direct from the manufacturer. Even if a sponsor carried them, I doubt they would save you much money if any at all.
Originally Posted by 96silverram
It sounds like I will definitely Half Fill the block and look into the ProGram caps. What do you think on connecting rods for this application ?
Make sure you get the block filled, a friend of mine blew up his 18 psi LT1 4-bolt because of that. A local speed shop built his motor, and didn't recommend it....so trust me do it....you'll learn 6k dollars later.
I'm definitely going to Half-fill the block for the possibility of 18-20psi. I did not want to fill the block completely, I've been told that is not good on the street. What do you guys think about Compstar ROD's for this application ?
Ive heard of alot of people having great luck with the Compstar rods... Never even knew they made them for std SBC bottom ends... Maybe you want to be a pioneer and we all can watch your progress to see how well they hold up for you.
Other tried and true manufacturers to look into:
Childs & Albert
Manley
Lunati
Holley Pro Mods (didnt know holley made them, found on google search)
GRP
You want to look at H-beams, ProMod's, Billet 4340, etc. Boost can put alot of stress on these so you want a good strong setup. C&A pro mods (billet)are expensive but have probably the highest advertised HP rating Ive seen.
Most get along fine with good ole Eagle H-beams... Ive seen and heard of people making in excess of 1000fwhp with them without problems.
Other tried and true manufacturers to look into:
Childs & Albert
Manley
Lunati
Holley Pro Mods (didnt know holley made them, found on google search)
GRP
You want to look at H-beams, ProMod's, Billet 4340, etc. Boost can put alot of stress on these so you want a good strong setup. C&A pro mods (billet)are expensive but have probably the highest advertised HP rating Ive seen.
Most get along fine with good ole Eagle H-beams... Ive seen and heard of people making in excess of 1000fwhp with them without problems.
A Eagle with ARP2000 bolts will be enough, you just have to pay attention to clearances.
Almost any aftermarket rod will be stronger than the block, and rods only fail 99% of the time do to something wrong with WHO installed it, because they didn't check everything.
Bret
Almost any aftermarket rod will be stronger than the block, and rods only fail 99% of the time do to something wrong with WHO installed it, because they didn't check everything.
Bret