lt1 knock sensor?
lt1 knock sensor? ok im trying to change mine out on my 97 lt1 firebird. the problem is it wont come out. the sensor itself is like two peices. well the part that the socket goes on seems to have seperated from the part that screws into the block. i have tried to grab the part that goes into the block with a wrench and a money wrench but no good. i need to change it because it is obviously a problem. plus im getting 3 degrees of knock all the time and im putting nitrous on the car and need to moniter for detination a little better. thanks for any help.
But to answer your question.. the KS looks like this http://shbox.com/1/ks_2.jpg. There should only be this and the connector. Did you break it?
Originally Posted by c5formula
the sensor itself is like two peices. well the part that the socket goes on seems to have seperated from the part that screws into the block.
If a Pipe wrench isnt working you may have to drill it out. I wouldnt recommend that unless as a last resort. FYI Coolant is gonna come outa that hole and splash you in the eye.
Also you may want to get the LT4 knock Modual as stated above.
yeah, um well if you use a wrench on the part and its spinning, thats all its going to do.
I used a strap wrench, which wasn't working well, then I screwed it up some more with a set of vice grips. At the end of the day I stabbed it with a large screwdriver til I punctured it and twisted it off that way.
Its bitch and won't come out easy.
If you are replacing it, get the new sensor from GM. It needs to be torqued properly also, get the torque number from the dealership.
I got a new sensor from NAPA and it was no good, it dosen't cost hardly anything more at a dealership, so get it from the dealership.
I used a strap wrench, which wasn't working well, then I screwed it up some more with a set of vice grips. At the end of the day I stabbed it with a large screwdriver til I punctured it and twisted it off that way.
Its bitch and won't come out easy.
If you are replacing it, get the new sensor from GM. It needs to be torqued properly also, get the torque number from the dealership.
I got a new sensor from NAPA and it was no good, it dosen't cost hardly anything more at a dealership, so get it from the dealership.
Originally Posted by camar0corey
At the end of the day I stabbed it with a large screwdriver til I punctured it and twisted it off that way.
well i have the lt4 knock mod in already and i didnt notice the 3 degrees of knock until after i did the obd1 swap with the pcm and the ks. i think when i put it in the first time i may have tightened it to much? ive heard that it only needs to be tightned to 14 foot pounds? i just need to figure out how i can get that thing out of there.
http://shbox.com/1/ks_2.jpg
if you look at this picture, you see that outside looking shell that crimps over onto the inside area where the socket would go, well that inside area kinda just spins inside that shell.
http://shbox.com/1/ks_2.jpg
if you look at this picture, you see that outside looking shell that crimps over onto the inside area where the socket would go, well that inside area kinda just spins inside that shell.
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I see what your saying. Either vice grip the **** out of it, or drill a screw in it diagonal so keeps it from spinning.
What do you have on your car? Anything that could cause the 3 degrees of knock in the first place?
What do you have on your car? Anything that could cause the 3 degrees of knock in the first place?
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Verdad Gallardo Yeah, I'm not sure if the sensor is shot if its spinning, but you won't be able to get it out by turning it.
Ask at the dealership what the torque spec. is, unless its listed on shoebox's site or someone on here knows. I know I couldn't find the number in the Haynes or Chiltons.
Here is my horror story with my knock sensor.
I was replacing my head gaskets, timing chain, springs, rockers, etc. Basically rebuilding everything but the shortblock.
So I also wanted a new knock sensor.
No torque specs listed in either book, got the part from NAPA. Took me hours to get the old sensor out. When the car was all put back together I had a code 41 or 43 or something, the code for ESC control. Yeah the knock sensor from NAPA was bad, which I couldn't think possible. Finally I took it to the dealership, resistance number was way off on the NAPA sensor, I just gave up and paid the dealership to fix the issue, no more check engine light.
I take it your just seeing the knock on a scanner, and not throwing a code for the KS??
Ask at the dealership what the torque spec. is, unless its listed on shoebox's site or someone on here knows. I know I couldn't find the number in the Haynes or Chiltons.
Here is my horror story with my knock sensor.
I was replacing my head gaskets, timing chain, springs, rockers, etc. Basically rebuilding everything but the shortblock.
So I also wanted a new knock sensor.
No torque specs listed in either book, got the part from NAPA. Took me hours to get the old sensor out. When the car was all put back together I had a code 41 or 43 or something, the code for ESC control. Yeah the knock sensor from NAPA was bad, which I couldn't think possible. Finally I took it to the dealership, resistance number was way off on the NAPA sensor, I just gave up and paid the dealership to fix the issue, no more check engine light.
I take it your just seeing the knock on a scanner, and not throwing a code for the KS??
Originally Posted by 95FbFormula
Sry to steal but MY KS doesn't look like the pic its not metal or silver at all It is a light tan clay color, does this mean it was replaced at 1 time.
I got mine tuned for my setup, didn't really need the LT4 Knock Module.
actually i am getting a trouble code, think its 43 esc control circut malfunction. anyone know how much a new knock sensor is from gm? and as for the mods, the only thing still stock is the short block.
Originally Posted by the_merv
You sure that's not the plug that goes on it, that sounds like it..
I got mine tuned for my setup, didn't really need the LT4 Knock Module.
I got mine tuned for my setup, didn't really need the LT4 Knock Module.
Its around $46 I think it was at the dealership. Yep you need a new one.
Well you have to be careful now though, ask at the dealership what it should read resistance wise, also to read out the voltage going to it.
A few things could go wrong with ESC, the knock sensor, the knock module, and also the PCM can be at fault.
Well you have to be careful now though, ask at the dealership what it should read resistance wise, also to read out the voltage going to it.
A few things could go wrong with ESC, the knock sensor, the knock module, and also the PCM can be at fault.
