I thought the sensor in the opti was the Camshaft position sensor, not the crank sensor.

Anyways. I remember the Crank sensor being oil soaked when I changed the pan gasket, so maybe it messed up.

 

Ok, today I plugged back in the battery.

I get in and start it.... Its running fine, just like nothing as usual.

Well before after about 5 minutes it would start wanting to die.

Well I waited, and waited and waited. Nothing, it was still running fine.

So I think to crank up the throttle and see if it starts to die. Nothing. Its revving fine. So I waited longer, still nothing. I get in and crank the throttle again. Nothing.

So I do it again, and I noticed a slight off idle stumble.

Well when I get back from work I am going to see if I can go around the neighborhood, see if anything comes up. ... ...
I never noticed how many cool smileys there are

 

I might add there is a certain amount of spark you need, not just spark. It would be much accurate to measure the coil with a volt meter.

I learned this the hard way and went after the opti for no reason.

 

My car is doing the exact same thing right now. The coil has spark some times and it starts then it doesnt other times and it wont start. Brand new coil so i can figure it out. Let us know what fixes your problem.

 

Could be the little Ignition control module on it..
Any of you guys space that whole piece away from the Head, so it's not directly bolted to the Head and getting hot? I did that, and you notice a difference..the Coil is warm, not hot at all. Before it was to the point you couldn't even touch it.

 

Yep, did the ICM cooling mod when I put my new ICM in. Didn't even know it was going bad, I just had it tested due to another trouble code, it failed half its tests. Replaced it, then replaced the faulty knock sensor that was throwing the code.

Just get the ICM tested, most places can test it and its cost? 5-10 minutes of your time.

 

I think I am going to get the ICM tested, but I have had to work like crazy the past couple days, so I havent gotten a chance to work on it.

But it hasnt thrown any codes, so I am going to drive it around the college parking lot until it throws codes or dies then tow it back to my house.

 

What Exactly is this ICM cooling mod, just popping some washers in behind the ICM?
I searched but found Nothing

 

Yep, thats all it is. It takes longer for it to cool down after you shut the car down, but it dosen't get as hot while the car is running.

Here's the link for it over on shoebox.Link

 

How does it take longer to cool down if it's not getting as hot, and not making a direct contact with something that stays warm longer..

 

Yea if the surface area is high it will lose heat quicker....

But thanks for the link and the explaination, I was thinking a while back about getting a longer coil wire and just relocating the whole thing. But I never did it.

 

I don't know, I guess thats how it was described on shoebox's site though?? Well I didn't translate it perfectly, here is what is said on the site: At least one person monitored the temperature of the ICM and the head after the mod. With the engine running, the ICM stayed cooler, but when the engine was turned off, the ICM did not dissipate heat as fast as the head did. I did not get any info on how long the ICM stayed hotter. I am just providing that for your information and you can draw your own conclusions.

 

Ok went out there today and started it up, I left it running for a while, messed with my AC which also died on me, but about a year ago. I think it has a big leak some where. well back on subject.

I started it and it started right up and ran for like a minute, then it died. I started it up and it died, then a third time, and it ran, I let it go for like 20 minutes, let it heat up all the way to regular operating temperature and nothing. I was revving it up and trying to simulate regular driving and nothing. It didnt throw any codes or anything, the only hickup was initially when it was dying.

When the engine cools off I am taking in the coil and the ICM and get them tested, then I will do the ICM cooling mod. and let you gus know what all is going on.

 

Well I took off the ICM and took it and the coil to AutoZone, well they said they cant test it, because they dont have the harness for it. Anybody know where I can just test the ICM and the coil, because all the other places what to test the whole car and charge me the 70 bucks for a diagnosis

 

Ok Well Today I drove the car around for good 30 minutes, It was driving fine, so I decided to go to my friends house, well half way there it died.

My buddy with the scan tool came by again and told me the codes were P1371, and another code for the MAF sensor, but I dont remember which one. Well I replaced the ICM thinking and hoping that was the problem, but nothing, it didnt work. So now I took of the MAF sensor and I lightly sprayed it with Electric contact cleaner. Maybe it will fix it. Tomorrow I am going to buy a new Crank sensor and pop it in and hope for the best.

 

I got the ICM tested at NAPA. Not all NAPA's have a tester, but if they are a semi-big store they should have one.

 

mine died on me out of nowhere one time. turns out it was blowing ignition fuses.

 

The only NAPA here is a privately owned one, so they dont really have anything that normal NAPA stores have.

 

Well I called the dealership to find out what that P1371 code was I talked to their head tech, he told me he had never even heard of that code, so I was kinda disconcerted.

But he finally looked it up and he said it was a Distributor timing ignition circuit high res code. So he thought it might be either the crank sensor or the cam sensor, which just my luck would probably be the opti.
Well I pick up the crank sensor today and reinstall my recently cleaned out MAF sensor, so hopefully by tomorrow my car will be roaring again