I have 1995 formula and was wondering which would be better too have the gears or the stall. Right now it has just the 2.73's out back but im wanting too change them for the 3.73's! Now if I should change the gears whats a good brand too go with, and what all should i change in the rear end too hold up too the abuse? Now if i go the stall route which one is a good one too go with and how big of a stall for the car. I was looking at TCI but theres so many out there i don't know which too choose on. Now the car has the usually bolt-ons with pacesetter long tubes,msd,off-road y-pipe,loudmouth exhaust,and setup for ram-air.

 

i would do the stall first. did research edge has good converters, yank is very good also hear good things about fuddle

 

do both!!!! Just like stated above edge, vigi and yank

 

Gears are easy to find..hit up a Junkyard and find a low milage S-10. They usually have them Gears in them, and it's a direct swap.

 

If you are choosing one over the other go with the stall, I did mine about 2 years ago and just over the winter did the gears, I guess in a month or so when the local tracks open I will see how they work out, but I loved the performance gain of the stall, the 3.73's are begining to irritate me on the highway though, soo much worse then the 2.73's. But if the performance gains are worth it at the track I can eat the gas mileage difference since I no longer daily drive the car...

 

IMO I would do a stall first. Even with 2.73's out back with a good stall it will wake your car up off the line. I went from 2.2 60 fts to 1.6's with a 3600 stall and 2.73's. Plus I kept my highway mileage.

 

Do both. If you later decide to get more mods (H/C or just C) the gears will REALLY wake the car up.

 

It's Called A Converter, Not A Stall!

 

 

Make sure you do both down the road, but get gears first. Now normally I would stay stall it first. But since you have 2.73s, it would be wise to switch those out first. I had 2.73s and I put in a Yank SS3200. 2.73s were way too large (numerically lower) for it. Whenever it went to overdrive at 45mph, a deep grinding noise would happen intill you got to around 60mph. The rpm's were too low for it to lock up. As soon as i put in 3.42s, it went away. Thats something that might happen if you choose that path.

I would go with stock gears from someone else. These 10 bolts are not worth putting money into, so don't waste your money on some fancy top $ brand.

 

I second him on that. Why the 10 bolt GM? Why??

 

i've got 3.73s in mine right now and it helped me a good bit. i took off about .2 from my 1/4 mile time. and it helps me rip out of the hole better too. on the street i can take the jump from most people easily. i have richmonds and i'm sitting at about 3k rpms at 80mph.

 

Well since im like your sidekick why do we experment on my car since its already lifed up in the garage. And I already got the 3.42 in the rear?

 

I would also agree with doing the converter 1st. I had 3.73's with no real improvement and the car was torture to drive on the freeway with the blowmaster screaming and pounding sound through the car (I don't mind exhaust noise, but this sucked!).
Once you get the converter taken care of, then get some gears. Most of the local pick-a-parts are full of S-10's (pick-ups and blazers) that often have 3.42's & posi's that are ripe for the picking. I paid $45 for the posi and 3.42's I am currently running. This set of gears works great for the highway, plus, I picked-up .5 seconds by going to the 3.42's.

 

Yea, the local Junk Yards have all kinds of stuff. Got 3.73's out of a 4-cyl S-10 for $60.

 

A S/10 posi is an explosion waiting to happen. The gears will work fine. It would be best to either get a zexel or factory f-body posi or just get the open dif with the gears and install a powertraxx locker. They are $249 if you you get the older style and they work great.