i blew up my LT-1 a few nights ago, driving slow of all things , my mechanic hasn't gotten into the engine yet, but suspects the cam cracked and he found coolant in 2 of the cylinders...

so after being stranded for an hour, seeing my car on a flatbed, and hearing my mechanic say,"you blew your motor..." i fail to see the down side. Time for a new motor.

i need some advise on what to do. I am looking for 450rwhp, and semi reliable, also NO MORE THAN $7,000 AND NO LESS THAN 7,000RPM.

 

i don't have any preferance on what i should do, but i have thought about it... LQ-4 or LQ-9 (CAR CRAFT got 483hp out of a LQ-4 w/ LT's, carb, MILD cam and Comp Cams springs) or i bore mine to a 355 and go heads and cam.

so give my some ideas, also only EFI no carbs.

 

Fully forged 383 or 396 12.0:1 compression with top end (intake, heads cam) from LE3, AI, or Port Pro's (all proven to perform). Assembled short block probaly run you about 3k to 4k depending on what internals you use and can definately go over 4k. I spent $3300 on my forged 383 short block (delivered to my door). I am dynoing at 422WRHP with a small off the shelf cam. If ya wanna rev to 7000 RPM probaly better off with a 355.

 

You should add that to your sig. Well said.

$7000.00 will make way more than 450RWHP, you could do that for around 3-4K.

 

i would like it to be around $7,000 "turn key," down the road in my car...

 

you will spend the 7000 k easily.... budget motor.

your also gonna need injectors, throttle body, fuel pump, gasket set, ignition, (recommended) New Opti, oil pump, lifters, rockers, push rods, water pump, dyno tune. I would'nt use to much used parts from your old motor. I'm sure there is more stuff to add


$2000 easily is going for your head and cam package. Start doing the math

 

i am aware that this new motor game is going to FU*K me in the A$$, BUT i think i could get over 400RWHP out of a LT-1 for $5,000 LE2 heads, CC306 (around 415rwhp LE's web site) also with replacing all the **** that is wrong with my formy now.
but a complete Escalade 6.0L LQ-9 can be had for $2,300, LS-6 intake $500, LT's $460, Y-Pipe $170, swapped into my car $1200 quote from my mechanic, TB $400, gen III hot cam kit $470 dyno tune $500 computer and wireing harness??? that is about $6,000 before computer and wireing harness

i have only been looking at the Gen III swap for a day or two now so i have a lot to learn, but i THINK a LQ-9 could come together for around $7000 "turn key"

P.S. streetwarrior96, i love your SILVER WS.6, one month after i bought my i found a lesser miled, SILVER HARD TOP formy WS.6 M6 for $1000 more than mine.

 

Before I get into what I say.. sounds like you killed a Head Gasket, not broke the Cam, that is pretty much damn near impossible.

As far as what you are saying, I am looking into it as well. Here is a little bit of info that I dug up.
I managed to build a Harness that works so far to wire a LSX in a mid 90's F-body. I spent $260 for the Harness and PCM, and probably saved $700+ on building it. Mine is a direct plug-in, and only 1 wire mod was done to the Car. We were able to tune it, and I don't even have the Engine yet. I built mine so I know what I did, and I can trouble shoot it if I have a problem. Who are you going to use to build it, cause I have heard mixed things about some of the builders, not a whole lot of them like to guarantee their ****, and some of them don't like to work initially. Just a Heads up on that.
The Engine.. I am looking at a 6.0L out of a 2500HD, I can get a complete shortblock for $450. Then I am going to get an Eagle 4.0" Crank($700-$1100), Forged/Pistons($1100), and have that all Balanced($400). Then I am getting the Cam, Heads and Intake that I want, so there is another $2000 roughly. That will be a built 402 CID.
Drivetrain.. You will definately need a built Transmission. I am going with a built LS1 4L60E, so that will cost about $2000 with the Stall. With that power, I am upgrading the Rear to a Moser 8.5" with a GM 8.5" 10-bolt Auburn Pro-Series Posi and Richmond 3.73's. All that setup will be about $2000. I have a good Posi now, but all that power will kill it, a 7.5" will not stand up to that on a good launch.
Fuel System.. This one is pretty easy, a little $50 filter for a '99 and up Corvette will take care of the Send and Return lines, and make them into 1 line for the Fule Rails.
After this is all said and done, I always plan for a $500 tweaking budget to get everything straightened out.
All of that is about $8000 area, but the power that it will throw down with the Heads/Cam is about 500+RWHP/TQ. That is just my setup that I have looked into, your might be a little different. you get the Idea though, it can be done, but there is alot to it. I am sure that I have missed a couple of things, so someone might fill that in.

 

i have a T56 rebuilt w/ a viper rebuild kit, and a Eaton posi, and billet axles. my car never sees the 1320, mabey once a year w/ street tires, but i do auto X so i think my rear will hold on for another year. the main goal i am looking for is an everyday "beatable" high reving motor that will light up all of 2nd and some of 3rd. my car is a street car, i enjoy my leather seats, power windows, AIR CONDITIONING, and defrosters, i like the idea of high horse power, but i want to drive my car every day w/o it breaking.

 

Maybe I am wrong, but I thought that the T56 is different in the LT1 to the LSX motors. Sounds like a nice idea to put in an LQ4 or LQ9 motor in, it should be a nice project. I am sure you will have to factor some fabrication into the equasion, like oil pan, motor mounts and maybe even a different K member.

 

FWI, It's pretty common to break a cam shaft when a motor turns loose. I've saw cams come out in as many as six pieces.

 

I have heard of the Hollow ones breaking apart, but that is alot of nuts if you are breaking a Cam.

 

The LT1 and LS1 T-56's are identical, the Bell Housings are what is the difference between the 2. For the F-cars, a different K-member is needed, you use the one that is from a LS1 Car. The Oil Pan needs to be from a F-car. There is a good bit involved, I have been looking at is for some time now, and I am thinking about starting it.

 

^ input shaft too ^

 

That's right.. one of them is a little shorter. Thanks.

 

Yeah im thinking the t56 swap will not work without shaft change. This = PITA from what i understand.

 

Hydrolic throw out bearing.... a lot more expensive