First off all I stated was the SBC timing set was much cheaper secondly
I'm not a kid (42 years old)

Now here's a little comparison:


LT4 set vs double roller ($249.99vs $65)
Mez WW118HD vs stock ($175.12 vs $162.50)
I found a good deal on the heavy duty mez and it was only 175.12 delivered and the timing set was 65 bucks with my head package..

EWP cost + 20 for a relay and wire (260.12)
Stock pump lt4hd timing set (412.49)
Man it looks like I saved almost enough to get my intake ported, and I probably gained some horsepower too.


Let's put the flames out and get this on topic.


An electric pump runs at a constant speed and can be designed for maximum efficiency at that speed; whereas the stock pump has to sacrifice efficiency in order to operate over a wide operating range.

I used an EWP for the small 3-7 rwhp dyno PROVEN gains CORVETTE EWP and with the use of a SBC double roller set, it was cheaper than buying (a new stock water pump and new LTX timing set) Shoot Nathan an email he's a good "kid" and he actually tried to document his results in a logical sequence.

A lot of guys spend $$$$$$$$ to port their intakes and end up with 5-15 rwhp gain so a mod that's cheaper than the stock replacement seems like a good deal.


Mike

 

$42 for a reman stock water pump and last I checked $60 or so for a stock timing set.
As I said the stocker is strong enough no need to go to the ED.
The way I look at it is you should buy 2 electrics so you have a spare onhand since they are not available as readily as mechanical so I see this as 2 electrics at $150-200 apiece so $300-400 and you have gained 6-10hp at the wheels and reduced load on the chain but you guys like the gen 1 chains so let's thow that in at $80 so now we are at $380-480 vs, the $102 I propose spending.
I have never agrued that the electric does not provide a RWHP gain just how it goes about it and the reliability and therefore the idea of using them as daily drivers.

stunningman, number 3. we have already covered that the electric DOES free up power but does so by moving less water. The alternator is not capable of placing more than a few HP load on the engine, by the math 140 amps is like 2.5hp which is full capacity at 100% efficiency. According to SAE the stock mechanical pump takes .17hp per gallon per minute which is 11hp at 6000rpms.

I am not saying electrics are bad or that they do not cool well enough, I just really think people need to stop and think about things a whole lot more than they do. Most electric users will admit that the sudden stop failure mode of electrics is a negative and it causes them to carry a spare, otherwise you need to consider the cost of towing the car when it does go where when a mechanical goes it is usually a slow weep which lets you get home and frankly usually shows up weeks or more before all out failure would occur.

I KNOW my car would go a little faster with an electric, a friend is demodding a car and I might just buy his electric from him to try but would only run it spring or fall when trying to get a new personal best or something. I drive this car too much to worry about wether that electric pump underhood is OK with the miles I put on.

 

so bottom line it's just a preferance.... it's what you want and like. To each their own

 

I understand the point and the physics of it.

But realistically its not really even worth mentioning as a negative to getting one.

 

ok man but this "I don't buy that. The alternator produces voltage as the engine turns. The faster it turns (engine rpms) the more voltage/amps it puts out and has available for you accessories to use." doesnt sound like you understand the physics of it. and the whole arguement started when i asked where the power was coming from for the EWP. i did not say that the EWP makes less power, i understand that they are more efficient, i was just wondering y nobody considers that they use energy too.

 

Hey LT1 FALCON, it doesn't take rocket science to do motor swaps. You're not the only one that can do them. You just chose to put it in a FORD. I guess since you put an LT1 in a FORD, that makes you think that you are superior in mechanical ability over anyone doing a motor swap in a Chevy. You are just here to ask questions so that people who answer them wrong can get reamed on how stupid they are, and in turn makes you feel better. Since I lack mechanical ability, I never did my own cam swaps or rebuilt motors, rebuilt transmissions or rearends, rebuilt complete supsensions, or even tuned my own pcm. But you are still right, I lack mechanical ability.

 

Well the alternator doesn't produce what it can at engine idle.

Hence your lights dimming with a sound system.

But I've never noticed someone's engine stutter with a sound system and alternator not up to par.

 

here is another example. yesterday my dim wit brother in law was installing his new indash in his V8 F-150 and had it running for a while... guess what battery died. I jump started it with my wifes Mazda Tribute (V6). Right b4 the "load" kicked in the Mazda stayed at idle through the entire starting process of the F-150, the RPM never went up to compensate for the load

 

lol if thats what you think. however, i get tired of people ******* my Ford. i found the Falcon in an old barn with the tires rotted off, hadnt run in 15 years. i picked it up for $00000. next i found an LT1 setup for cheap. i couldnt pass either deal up so i got them both and "merged" them together. i dont know what the big deal is, it was a cheap swap and if i would have found a chevy in a barn for free i would have taken it, and if i found a new model Ford for cheap i would have used its drivetrain. if you dont like free fords thats your problem

 

I don't mind free things either, and I was just making a statement. You are the one who stated I had no ability just cause I made the statement of your motor swap. I never said you didn't have the ability to do your swap.

 

Hell I'd do it.

Damn Fords been needing GM motors for awhile now.

 

lol

 

I don't think anyone said the idle would go up. If you had a scanner on the Mazda you would have seen the Idle Air Control have too allow additional air flow to maintain idle with the extra load though.
What I said was you will usually hear the idle change a little in response too load, if the pcm responds very quickly and the car is very quiet I would think it easy to miss. Try it with a vehicle without pcm idle speed control and the idle will drop slightly. Computer controls will quickly compensate to MAINTAIN idle speed.

 

10-4 on that

 

You guys need to market these energy-creation ideas! How about buying a several MW generator found in a dam, and turning it with a lawnmower motor? Should work since the load has no effect!

 

**** ewp.

I want an electric ac! Now that would def free up some hp!

 

The weight of turning it to begin with would be too much. So that has no bearing on this conversation.