what kind of power gain can i expect to see from an electric wp. trying to decide it its really worth it. if so, any difference between brands? thanks

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/small-block-big-block-chevy-specific/659483-how-long-have-you-had-electric-pump.html

This link has nothing to do with "gaining" hp out of an elec pump.


But it has some good debate on the whole "elec pump VS mechanical pump"

 

I would not do an electric water pump on a daily driver.

However if you are going all out for a weekend car/track only then I would go with anything else.

 

I agree. If you're running on the street everyday, I wouldn't do a elec pump. I don't think it'd be too bad if you didn't go out of town (to me, that's within a 5-8 mile span). If you go farther than that, I really wouldn't get an electric pump. IMHO - not worth worrying about it.

 

ive done, it works fine for a dd. There is a good drawn on your power so watch it. I used CSI/CSR gained 10hp/10 tq, i went .1 quicker in thr quarter and 2 mph faster. Def. worth it.

 

Was this on a LT1 car? Also was it in the same conditions? If this is true, and your certain its acurate I may need to be looking into this. 10 RWHP is a nice gain.

 

I did back to back same day dyno testing on a Mustang dyno last year..On my combo switching from a stocker to a Meziere got me 9-10 rwhp across the entire tested rpm range...It does run a wee bit hotter during cruise than it did before because the EWP runs at a constant speed rather than the mechanical which fluctuates with engine speed...For the same reasons it runs cooler at idle and in traffic and in the staging lanes...

--Alan

 

i did mine with a whole new setup..so thats impressive if you really gain that much.
i run a meziere on my dd and notice it runs a little hotter when cruising. although it also ditches about 10 lbs.

 

on this car goof ball

http://www.fbody.com/timeslips/member.cgi?id=560

I parted it out but the gain is true, since its cam driven it puts the parasitic loss there, not on the crank, hence UD dont gain too much on LT1 cars but on LS1's they gain 8-10 where on LS1's the EW gains like 5.

 

Got CSR on my DD 383... not problems especially during out summer 100* + with A/C on

 

How does adding an electric motor "ditch 10lbs"?

The motor has too weigh more than the WP drive and front WP cover.

Now on a gen1 where you replace the whole cast monstrosity with a little aluminum thing they I could see you being right.

 

these reports of 10 hp and .1 off the quarter are hard to believe. what i dont understand is that yea, you are decreasing mechanical energy used to turn the pump, but u are using more electrical energy which would make the alternator use more energy (harder for the motor to turn). i mean, it takes a set amount of energy to move water throught the block and radiator, and that energy doesnt come from nowhere, its got to be generated somehow. can anybody explain this?

 

In my case the dyno doesn't lie and it was as close to a controlled before and after test as possible...As far as 1/4 mile reduction I can't say for sure because we had changed other things about the car before we hit the track...I think the electric used is minimal and would not offset the ewp as my dyno results showed...Mechanical resistance, even minimal as with the cam turning the wp, is resistance nonetheless and the ewp, in my case, freed up a bit of power...Its supposedly easier on the front cam bearing, too...

--Alan

 

that water pump runs off of 10 amps... on 12v power source. 10 amps aint much at all. If I recall correctly most f-bodys come with a 140 amp alt not sure on the B's. CSR claims that it pumps up to 38 gallons per min.

 

i still dont get how the electric motor isnt using any energy

 

You mean power?

It isn't pulley driven and the pulleys are driven straight off the motor.

 

it's not using any energy off of the motor, like an accessory, power steering, A/C, alternator does. as they said mechanical energy. The more accessories you have turning from the motor the more power the suck up. EWP has it's own motor (obviously) all it needs it and electrical source for it to work. Like when race cars take off the power steering, A/C, and alternator to free up HP

 

lol, ill say it again, i still dont get how the electric motor isnt using any energy. energy just doesnt pump into the motor from nowhere, its got to come from the alternator. the more drain there is on the alternator, the more it tries to hold the pulley back, which results in more energy being held back from the crankshaft. now if someone said there is less friction in an electric pump, i would understand. im sure there is an advantage somewhere in the system.

 

ok dumb question, but if the mechanical wp is bad and all you do is add the electric wp to it will it make a difference. i say this because i dont know what kind of shape the wp was in when the engine was running and i was going to just replace the wp to be on the safe side while its out. so im not sure if its leaking or what, so will the electric wp correct any problems with the mech water pump

 

They use less energy by moving vastly LESS water. The 38gpm ratings are unrestricted and the stock pump at 4000rpms with the restriction of pumping through the engine is 40gpm.

For the mostpart I trust ABA383 as an intelligent honest guy who does things right so when he says he gained 9-10hp I believe him, but one dyno owner I spoke too said more like 7-8 , a dyno can easily show 3-4hp different back too back so I would not say the numbers I am posting make ABA383 wrong.

I paid too download an SAE document on the LT1 cooling system, maybe not the best $12 I ever spent but was interesting nonetheless.

With an electric WP I would not pull the belt at the strip due too demand, pulling the belt is worth about .1. Meaning for the street I will keep my mechanical and when I want that extra .1 I can pull the belt which is free and is no compromise too reliability.