Intake Manifold oil leak
#1
Intake Manifold oil leak
Alright guys I searched for a write up or some pics on fixing this oil leak but only found a bunch of people giving opinions on what gasket maker to use. I'm planning on trying to fix this on Wednesday and Thursday since I got no class and I'm off work these 2 days. It will give me plenty of time. I really want pics or a good write up on it since I've never done it before. I've actually never done anything like this before but I'm sure I can do it with everyone giving me direction and tips.
Basically what I know is that there are 6 bolts holding it down on each side (don't know exactly where but I'll find them) and that I need to unplug sensors and vacuum lines. Also I just take off the entire fuel rail with the manifold correct? How exactly is this done? What did you use to align the manifold to go on straight? I heard to use pencils but I don't want wood or anything inside my motor. Any help you can give me will help alot since I've never done it. Do I need any special tools for this or will regular hand tools be fine? Like I said a detailed write up with pics would be the best.
Basically what I know is that there are 6 bolts holding it down on each side (don't know exactly where but I'll find them) and that I need to unplug sensors and vacuum lines. Also I just take off the entire fuel rail with the manifold correct? How exactly is this done? What did you use to align the manifold to go on straight? I heard to use pencils but I don't want wood or anything inside my motor. Any help you can give me will help alot since I've never done it. Do I need any special tools for this or will regular hand tools be fine? Like I said a detailed write up with pics would be the best.
Last edited by porksoda; 03-25-2007 at 03:19 AM.
#2
There are 2 fuel lines, you will need a fuel line disconnect tool. I bought mine at autozone for @ $5. Here is a link to a picture of one http://images.search.yahoo.com/searc...2e5ce&ei=UTF-8 You will need to use both sides of that tool, as the fuel lines are different sizes.
There are 12 bolts, IIRC they are 13mm and I used a short extension on 10 of them. The first 2 on the drivers side, I had to use a wrench.
Go to shbox.com and in the cam removal you will get a editorial on how to get the manifold off.
The gasket set you buy from Advanced is going to come with a small tube of gasket maker, enough to get the job done.
There are 12 bolts, IIRC they are 13mm and I used a short extension on 10 of them. The first 2 on the drivers side, I had to use a wrench.
Go to shbox.com and in the cam removal you will get a editorial on how to get the manifold off.
The gasket set you buy from Advanced is going to come with a small tube of gasket maker, enough to get the job done.
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These two are the write-ups that I used -- worked great. I found it easier to disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rails than to just pull it out of the way, but that's just me.
http://www.projecttransam.com/projects2.asp
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/4013/ol.html
http://www.projecttransam.com/projects2.asp
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/4013/ol.html
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Originally Posted by aboatguy
I'd scrap the RTV that comes in the kit and use "The Right Stuff" it seals like nothing I've ever seen before and actually sticks to the china wall.
Mike
Mike
#7
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Do not use permatex!! I had it blow out on me twice! Go to a GM dealer an get some of their adhesive. It comes in a white tube and the adhesive itself is grey. I used that and have not had a problem since! Its about $11 bucks and you have to let it cure for 24 hrs.
I used permatex on my build and it crapped out on me. Now i have to tear the oil pan off and replace the gasket and use the GM stuff on the corners.
Other than that its a fairly easy task...just keep it clean and do not rush.
I used permatex on my build and it crapped out on me. Now i have to tear the oil pan off and replace the gasket and use the GM stuff on the corners.
Other than that its a fairly easy task...just keep it clean and do not rush.
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#8
Sounds easy enough. I think I'll give it a try before paying a shop thats for sure. Is there a way to check and be sure its the intake manifold and not the rear main seal? I just ask because I know its coming from the back of the block somewhere because its dripping all down my transmission.
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Originally Posted by porksoda
Sounds easy enough. I think I'll give it a try before paying a shop thats for sure. Is there a way to check and be sure its the intake manifold and not the rear main seal? I just ask because I know its coming from the back of the block somewhere because its dripping all down my transmission.
When I replaced my lifters, I went ahead and double checked and made sure it sealed well on the back, my engine back has stayed considerably clean since then (approx 3 months of driving). Plus every couple of weeks when I double check, it is dry as a bone back there.
The intake manifold on the LT1 in general has a tendency to slowly loosen itself. If you've never touched a bolt on the intake manifold since you've owned it, simply taking it off and replacing the gaskets and properly torquing it back down will help as well. Just put a little bit of blue loctite on the threads when you put the manifold back on and you'll be in good shape. Follow those two writeups, they're extremely straight forward. Just take your time and you'll be fine.
#10
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I’ve always used Permatex Ultra Blue. On the rear of my intake, we made a mess and there’s no leak. Installing the timing cover, the front oil pan gasket got dislodged. We dried it all real good and gooped up the Ultra Blue. Not only didn’t it never leak, when I recently changed the K-Member and I installed a Steffs oil pan, we had a bitch of a time getting the Ultra Blue off, it was stuck on good.
I’m sure The Right Stuff will work good too. The trick is applying whatever sealant you choose on clean dry surfaces and letting it cure at least 24 hours.
I’m sure The Right Stuff will work good too. The trick is applying whatever sealant you choose on clean dry surfaces and letting it cure at least 24 hours.
#13
Well I have had the intake done twice and the rear main done once. The first time for the intake was in June of 06, I had my mechanic do it and it didn't leak for about a month but then it started and progressively got worse. I then decided to get a cam and had a local guy that all he works on is LT1 and LS1's doing heads and cam, bolt on stuff so he knows what he is doing. He did the install in December of 06. Anyway as you know he had to pull the intake to do it so basically it got fixed again. Once again it didn't leak for a while but now its pouring again. I figure I'll try it myself and see how it goes. And the rear main seal was done by my mechanic in April of 06 when he replaced my clutch.
#18
I knew thats what he meant but I just don't want to have to do it again if it don't work out as planned. Anyway does anyone have pics of exactly where I'll be disconnecting the fuel rail at? Its toward the back of the manifold but where? I don't have to disconnect all the fuel injectors do I? Can't I just disconnect the fuel lines in the back and leave all the injectors and fuel rail connected to the manifold?
#20
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If your looking at the front of the engine, the fuel lines are disconnected on the back right of the engine. Two lines are present so unhook both of them. Have some rags handy to catch the fuel that will leak out. I didnt both unhooking the fuel rails and injectors when I pulled my intake (this past Saturday actually). Only pain is getting all the wires out of the way to pull it out cleanly.
-Brian
-Brian