porksoda

iTrader: (39)

Alright guys I searched for a write up or some pics on fixing this oil leak but only found a bunch of people giving opinions on what gasket maker to use. I'm planning on trying to fix this on Wednesday and Thursday since I got no class and I'm off work these 2 days. It will give me plenty of time. I really want pics or a good write up on it since I've never done it before. I've actually never done anything like this before but I'm sure I can do it with everyone giving me direction and tips.

Basically what I know is that there are 6 bolts holding it down on each side (don't know exactly where but I'll find them) and that I need to unplug sensors and vacuum lines. Also I just take off the entire fuel rail with the manifold correct? How exactly is this done? What did you use to align the manifold to go on straight? I heard to use pencils but I don't want wood or anything inside my motor. Any help you can give me will help alot since I've never done it. Do I need any special tools for this or will regular hand tools be fine? Like I said a detailed write up with pics would be the best.

camzaro28

There are 2 fuel lines, you will need a fuel line disconnect tool. I bought mine at autozone for @ $5. Here is a link to a picture of one http://images.search.yahoo.com/searc...2e5ce&ei=UTF-8 You will need to use both sides of that tool, as the fuel lines are different sizes.
There are 12 bolts, IIRC they are 13mm and I used a short extension on 10 of them. The first 2 on the drivers side, I had to use a wrench.
Go to shbox.com and in the cam removal you will get a editorial on how to get the manifold off.

The gasket set you buy from Advanced is going to come with a small tube of gasket maker, enough to get the job done.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

The easiest way I remove the Fuel System is to pop it right off of the Intake. It is only 4 little Bolts, and then you kinda pry it off with a flat-head screwdriver. Removing the Intake is pretty easy, you don't even have to drain the Coolant.

aboatguy

I'd scrap the RTV that comes in the kit and use "The Right Stuff" it seals like nothing I've ever seen before and actually sticks to the china wall.

Mike

WhyHelloOfficer

iTrader: (5)

These two are the write-ups that I used -- worked great. I found it easier to disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rails than to just pull it out of the way, but that's just me.

http://www.projecttransam.com/projects2.asp

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/4013/ol.html

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

I've heard good things about "The Right Stuff" but never used it myself.

Matts94Z28

iTrader: (6)

Do not use permatex!! I had it blow out on me twice! Go to a GM dealer an get some of their adhesive. It comes in a white tube and the adhesive itself is grey. I used that and have not had a problem since! Its about $11 bucks and you have to let it cure for 24 hrs.

I used permatex on my build and it crapped out on me. Now i have to tear the oil pan off and replace the gasket and use the GM stuff on the corners.

Other than that its a fairly easy task...just keep it clean and do not rush.

porksoda

iTrader: (39)

Sounds easy enough. I think I'll give it a try before paying a shop thats for sure. Is there a way to check and be sure its the intake manifold and not the rear main seal? I just ask because I know its coming from the back of the block somewhere because its dripping all down my transmission.

WhyHelloOfficer

iTrader: (5)

After you've gone driving and let the car cool for a couple of hours, put your hand on the rear passenger corner of the intake manifold and feel if it is oily/grimey. If it is, then that is probably your culprit.

When I replaced my lifters, I went ahead and double checked and made sure it sealed well on the back, my engine back has stayed considerably clean since then (approx 3 months of driving). Plus every couple of weeks when I double check, it is dry as a bone back there.

The intake manifold on the LT1 in general has a tendency to slowly loosen itself. If you've never touched a bolt on the intake manifold since you've owned it, simply taking it off and replacing the gaskets and properly torquing it back down will help as well. Just put a little bit of blue loctite on the threads when you put the manifold back on and you'll be in good shape. Follow those two writeups, they're extremely straight forward. Just take your time and you'll be fine.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

I’ve always used Permatex Ultra Blue. On the rear of my intake, we made a mess and there’s no leak. Installing the timing cover, the front oil pan gasket got dislodged. We dried it all real good and gooped up the Ultra Blue. Not only didn’t it never leak, when I recently changed the K-Member and I installed a Steffs oil pan, we had a bitch of a time getting the Ultra Blue off, it was stuck on good.

I’m sure The Right Stuff will work good too. The trick is applying whatever sealant you choose on clean dry surfaces and letting it cure at least 24 hours.

9formula4

iTrader: (5)

Thats THE BEST info that you can find on these.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Remove that EGR crap..that helps alot.

porksoda

iTrader: (39)

Well I have had the intake done twice and the rear main done once. The first time for the intake was in June of 06, I had my mechanic do it and it didn't leak for about a month but then it started and progressively got worse. I then decided to get a cam and had a local guy that all he works on is LT1 and LS1's doing heads and cam, bolt on stuff so he knows what he is doing. He did the install in December of 06. Anyway as you know he had to pull the intake to do it so basically it got fixed again. Once again it didn't leak for a while but now its pouring again. I figure I'll try it myself and see how it goes. And the rear main seal was done by my mechanic in April of 06 when he replaced my clutch.

porksoda

iTrader: (39)

All my emissions crap is gone, cut out, or blocked off already. Including the cat

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I was looking at this for a little bit, never did it though. Someone should get some Gasket Material, and cut it to fit the line of the Engine Block, RTV it in there, and see how that works.

porksoda

iTrader: (39)

I'd be willing to try that but I really don't want to mess up and have a leak again and have to redo everything. Especially when I've never done this

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

I think he just meant in the front and back of the block where the intake gaskets do not cover. Not a bad idea.

porksoda

iTrader: (39)

I knew thats what he meant but I just don't want to have to do it again if it don't work out as planned. Anyway does anyone have pics of exactly where I'll be disconnecting the fuel rail at? Its toward the back of the manifold but where? I don't have to disconnect all the fuel injectors do I? Can't I just disconnect the fuel lines in the back and leave all the injectors and fuel rail connected to the manifold?

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Yeah just undo the lines at their fittings. Those little disconnectors just slide up into the flare of lines and pop them loose.

Blackbirdws6

iTrader: (7)

If your looking at the front of the engine, the fuel lines are disconnected on the back right of the engine. Two lines are present so unhook both of them. Have some rags handy to catch the fuel that will leak out. I didnt both unhooking the fuel rails and injectors when I pulled my intake (this past Saturday actually). Only pain is getting all the wires out of the way to pull it out cleanly.

-Brian