no point for a 4 bolt lt1?!?!
no point for a 4 bolt lt1?!?! I found this on a turbo forum and i quote.....
"""I am starting my winter upgrades to the bottom end to support much higher boost levels. After consulting a few race shops that I respect I was interested to hear that they really do not see much need for splayed caps on the LT1 due to the webbing and block strength.
SO post up your opinions. Has anyone really found the limit of the 4 bolt caps on the LT1? Please dont just speculate, we all know what the splayed caps are supposed to do."""
"""I am starting my winter upgrades to the bottom end to support much higher boost levels. After consulting a few race shops that I respect I was interested to hear that they really do not see much need for splayed caps on the LT1 due to the webbing and block strength.
SO post up your opinions. Has anyone really found the limit of the 4 bolt caps on the LT1? Please dont just speculate, we all know what the splayed caps are supposed to do."""
I would think the 4-bolt would be better if you are going to spin high rpms or push a lot of boost if not i thyink the 2bolt would be fine I am keeping mine 2-bolt with ARP main studs.
Im going to go out on a limb and say that those 'shops' saying that a 4 bolt block is not needed are most likley GEN 1 guys. Guys that have been building SBC's for years and have seen results.
The older SBC blocks are strong, and many of them can handle gobbs of power on just a studded 2 bolt block. The LT1 is not totaly an SBC block and if you plan on big power 4 bolt is almost the only way to go.
Tony.
The older SBC blocks are strong, and many of them can handle gobbs of power on just a studded 2 bolt block. The LT1 is not totaly an SBC block and if you plan on big power 4 bolt is almost the only way to go.
Tony.
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There are guy's making 550-600 on studded 2 bolt's all day long... especially in the late model stuff they do around here.. I would do a splayed cap or if you can find a factory 4 bolt do that...
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 431
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From: Lexington, NC
I feel that a 4 bolt is just a security thing on these motors, its there just to help prevent something from happening. Heck if your going to build a motor that will be put thorugh its paces alot, why not do it right?
-bryan
-bryan
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From: BLOOMFIELD, NY
i ran the stock 2bolt with apr studs... Heads and vortech supercharager.
After 2 years of running around like that on 9lbs of boost.. when i tore my motor down to build the 383 i found chaffing betweend the caps and the blocks. Which means their was movement. Needless to say now i run 4bolt splayed..
Hope this helps some
Micah
After 2 years of running around like that on 9lbs of boost.. when i tore my motor down to build the 383 i found chaffing betweend the caps and the blocks. Which means their was movement. Needless to say now i run 4bolt splayed..
Hope this helps some
Micah
Originally Posted by 96SCTA
i ran the stock 2bolt with apr studs... Heads and vortech supercharager.
After 2 years of running around like that on 9lbs of boost.. when i tore my motor down to build the 383 i found chaffing betweend the caps and the blocks. Which means their was movement. Needless to say now i run 4bolt splayed..
Hope this helps some
Micah
After 2 years of running around like that on 9lbs of boost.. when i tore my motor down to build the 383 i found chaffing betweend the caps and the blocks. Which means their was movement. Needless to say now i run 4bolt splayed..
Hope this helps some
Micah
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From: That Southern Fried Space City
Originally Posted by Hot94Z28
If I drop all that coin I would just feel better about 4 bolt. Then I would not feel so bad about driving the **** out of it.
Originally Posted by The Big Show
This quote sums it allllll up...
Teching In
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From: San Jose, CA
I'm going to semi-hijack this thread and ask if the step has been made to splay the block and you are using billet rods, have plans to spray maybe 150 would it be stupid to use a cast stroker crank instead of a forged unit?
My 2 bolt didnt hold up at all. I only put 402 to the tires while spraying it, and the mains were completely wiped out, caps moved so much they actually scarred themselves at the mating surfaces.
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From: That Southern Fried Space City
Originally Posted by firehawk408
I'm going to semi-hijack this thread and ask if the step has been made to splay the block and you are using billet rods, have plans to spray maybe 150 would it be stupid to use a cast stroker crank instead of a forged unit?
With the cost of forged cranks these days it makes no sense to go cast unless you are just reusing what you already have. I bought my 4340 forged crank brand new from a place in Dallas, Tx. for under 300 bucks a few years ago and stuff is even cheaper now. Granted better cranks (already profiled) are going to cost more but for a cheap build there is no reason you have to use a cast crank unless you just want to.