changing out valve springs
changing out valve springs Im gonna be changing out my valvetrain for all new.
-7/16 studs
-pro mag rockers nsa
-gmpp guideplates
-comp cams pushrods
-918 springs w/ ti locks
My question is how can i do this without removing my heads. I know they sell a adaptor to put in my sparkplug hole to compress the cylinder so i dont drop a valve but i dont wanna pull my headers to do that. Other people say put that i can put that certain cylinder at TDC and let the valve rest on top of the piston but how would i get it back up. How is everyone changing out theres?? I wanna do it in the next few days so let me know asap.
-7/16 studs
-pro mag rockers nsa
-gmpp guideplates
-comp cams pushrods
-918 springs w/ ti locks
My question is how can i do this without removing my heads. I know they sell a adaptor to put in my sparkplug hole to compress the cylinder so i dont drop a valve but i dont wanna pull my headers to do that. Other people say put that i can put that certain cylinder at TDC and let the valve rest on top of the piston but how would i get it back up. How is everyone changing out theres?? I wanna do it in the next few days so let me know asap.
You can do the rope trick. Just back the piston down a little from TDC, then feed a small diameter, soft rope into the spark plug hole. Make sure to leave the end hanging out for easy removal. Once the rope is in place, move the piston up until the wad of rope pushes against the valves.
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Victoria, Texas
Originally Posted by Taubr Unit
hummmm, deff. sounds like some "wood shed" racing there... i like it, lol. Ill keep it in mind.
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 284
Likes: 1
From: Hebron, Oh
The first time I put air in the cylinders. Then next time I did my valvesprings I put #1 at TDC and took the springs off. The valve would fall down just a bit and rest on the piston. Most didn't even fall down enough to hit the piston. When I put new valveguide seals on, the valves stayed in place while I put the springs on. I would then just turn the crank 90* for the next cylinder and follow the firing order. Two revolutions of the crank and your done.
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12 Second Club
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
From: Vegas
I just did mine, and used a compresser set to 100 psi and compressed the cylinder. I made sure to have the piston at TDC and used a strap to hold the breaker bar in place on the crank bolt. Good luck -Dave
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It's not bad, really.
Take your time with the small beehive retainers, though. They can be a real PITA.
Depends on what compressor you use.
Wear gloves and eye protection. You'll find out why the first time one pops out of the compressor on you.
A magnet is very useful for the locks, especially if you drop one.
I just went around using the balancer and did the cylinders where the piston was at the top. The list should be on shoebox's site.
Doing the valve seals too, I hope, just didn't see them on your list.
Take your time with the small beehive retainers, though. They can be a real PITA.
Depends on what compressor you use.
Wear gloves and eye protection. You'll find out why the first time one pops out of the compressor on you.
A magnet is very useful for the locks, especially if you drop one.
I just went around using the balancer and did the cylinders where the piston was at the top. The list should be on shoebox's site.
Doing the valve seals too, I hope, just didn't see them on your list.
