Beehive Valve Spring Info
Beehive Valve Spring Info Ok well I was looking for the thread where this question was asked, but I couldnt find it, so here ya go.
Since I was upgrading to 1.65 RRs I was changing out my valve springs, and I thought I would upgrade to some Beehives, well after holding for a while and calling back a few times, I finally talked to a guy on Cam Help. Turns out that with a stock cam with 1.6 or 1.65 ratio rockers the 26918-16 beehive spring will drop down directly onto the stock spring seat and require no machining or shims.
So if you want to get Beehives, you need:
26918-16 beehive valve springs
795-16 spring retainers
611-16 valve locks
edited for your safety
Since I was upgrading to 1.65 RRs I was changing out my valve springs, and I thought I would upgrade to some Beehives, well after holding for a while and calling back a few times, I finally talked to a guy on Cam Help. Turns out that with a stock cam with 1.6 or 1.65 ratio rockers the 26918-16 beehive spring will drop down directly onto the stock spring seat and require no machining or shims.
So if you want to get Beehives, you need:
26918-16 beehive valve springs
795-16 spring retainers
611-16 valve locks
edited for your safety
Last edited by Captainofiron; Apr 13, 2007 at 12:02 PM.
what all do you need to change the valve springs on the car? i just ordered a new cam and putting on the beehive srpings as well. can i use the retainers and locks that came with my hotcam srpings or do i have to order the retainers and locks for the beehive springs?
TECH Senior Member
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
There's a tool at most of your local auto stores that screws into your sparkplug hole for your air compressor, to pressurize the cylinders to keep the valves from dropping in. I think some Compression testers have the right fitting, and you can 'cheat' and use it's fitting on your compressor as well. Then a valve spring compressor and that's really it.
If that's not what you were asking, heh whoops >_>
If that's not what you were asking, heh whoops >_>
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Originally Posted by Formula350
There's a tool at most of your local auto stores that screws into your sparkplug hole for your air compressor, to pressurize the cylinders to keep the valves from dropping in. I think some Compression testers have the right fitting, and you can 'cheat' and use it's fitting on your compressor as well. Then a valve spring compressor and that's really it.
If that's not what you were asking, heh whoops >_>
If that's not what you were asking, heh whoops >_>
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Verdad Gallardo if your changing the valve springs I would replace the retainers, the locks, the valve seals,
the tools your need to change it on the car is the on car valve spring compressor, get a good one, not a cheapo AZ rental, and you can do it 2 valves at a time, rotating the piston to TDC so the valves wont fall, or you can do what Formula350 said and get the compressor tool to push the valves up, both ways are good, you just need a compressor for the second method
the tools your need to change it on the car is the on car valve spring compressor, get a good one, not a cheapo AZ rental, and you can do it 2 valves at a time, rotating the piston to TDC so the valves wont fall, or you can do what Formula350 said and get the compressor tool to push the valves up, both ways are good, you just need a compressor for the second method
using a compressor to build pressure will make things hard because you gotta get a hose in there and what not....just put each cylinder at TDC and switch out valves. i have 918 springs and thats how i did. was a piece of cake.
Here's some corrections:
613-16 These are the standard 10 degree locks without the recessions for the lash cap like the 611 locks have which we don't use. It might not make much difference, but then again it might. I'd get the 613 locks.
614-16 These locks are 10 degree that add .050" to the install height. These are necessary to get the recommended 1.8" install height with the 918 spring on a LT1 head. Can only be use with 10 degree retainers.
4705-16 These are the beehive spring locators. You should NOT use the stock locators with aftermarket springs. It just isn't wise and they don't cost that much.
613-16 These are the standard 10 degree locks without the recessions for the lash cap like the 611 locks have which we don't use. It might not make much difference, but then again it might. I'd get the 613 locks.
614-16 These locks are 10 degree that add .050" to the install height. These are necessary to get the recommended 1.8" install height with the 918 spring on a LT1 head. Can only be use with 10 degree retainers.
4705-16 These are the beehive spring locators. You should NOT use the stock locators with aftermarket springs. It just isn't wise and they don't cost that much.
Originally Posted by Formula350
There's a tool at most of your local auto stores that screws into your sparkplug hole for your air compressor, to pressurize the cylinders to keep the valves from dropping in. I think some Compression testers have the right fitting, and you can 'cheat' and use it's fitting on your compressor as well. Then a valve spring compressor and that's really it.
If that's not what you were asking, heh whoops >_>
If that's not what you were asking, heh whoops >_>
Originally Posted by seawolf06
Here's some corrections:
613-16 These are the standard 10 degree locks without the recessions for the lash cap like the 611 locks have which we don't use. It might not make much difference, but then again it might. I'd get the 613 locks.
614-16 These locks are 10 degree that add .050" to the install height. These are necessary to get the recommended 1.8" install height with the 918 spring on a LT1 head. Can only be use with 10 degree retainers.
4705-16 These are the beehive spring locators. You should NOT use the stock locators with aftermarket springs. It just isn't wise and they don't cost that much.
613-16 These are the standard 10 degree locks without the recessions for the lash cap like the 611 locks have which we don't use. It might not make much difference, but then again it might. I'd get the 613 locks.
614-16 These locks are 10 degree that add .050" to the install height. These are necessary to get the recommended 1.8" install height with the 918 spring on a LT1 head. Can only be use with 10 degree retainers.
4705-16 These are the beehive spring locators. You should NOT use the stock locators with aftermarket springs. It just isn't wise and they don't cost that much.
and the stock seats can be used because those 918s drop right down on them
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,564
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
I worked at Checker (CSK, Checker, Shucks and Kragen) which is like, 50% owned now by Advanced. I noticed they had most of the stuff CSK did. I'd assume NAPA would be able to get it.
I see where you're coming from with the space issue and running a hose. You can get u-joint's for air though, so you can go in at a 90º angle.
You should be able to get TDC on each cyl no prob. 18436572
I'm sure I'd get frustrated though lol
I see where you're coming from with the space issue and running a hose. You can get u-joint's for air though, so you can go in at a 90º angle.
You should be able to get TDC on each cyl no prob. 18436572
I'm sure I'd get frustrated though lol 
And... beehives had a bad batch. Make damn sure you don't buy those.
AND, imho, the PRC or Patriot dual springs are FAR better, and include the seats, 10 degree titanium retainers, and locks.
Do more research before deciding the beehive 918s are the shiznit... you might wind up deciding they are just the shiz if you get the bad ones
AND, imho, the PRC or Patriot dual springs are FAR better, and include the seats, 10 degree titanium retainers, and locks.
Do more research before deciding the beehive 918s are the shiznit... you might wind up deciding they are just the shiz if you get the bad ones
