i got max of 2 grand to build a forged 355 using stock crank. i would like to spent as low as i can to built the bottom end so i have money left over for the top end. how much did you guys spend?

 

i am also interested in this, waiting for mine to blow up and wondering how much it will cost to rebuild it practically stock bottom end maybe some top end (possibly cam, springs, rr 1.6)

 

I just did exactly what you are thinking, (a stock crank 355 LT1).
It cost exactly $2370. I accounted for every last penny too....(something that is very difficult to do...at least for me it is).

That was just for the 355 parts and machine work. No heads cam valvetrain money was spent because I already had a nice set up.


The machine work was $845
the crank balance was $250
the parts took the remainder of that $2370.

Brief parts descripiton:
stock crank
SCAT forged I-beams with the 7/16" rod bolts (shaped like a Lunati ProMod rod).
Mahle Powerpak flat top pistons/rings/pins/locks
Mahle OEM quality main and rod bearings
Durabond cam bearings
all gaskets Felpro accept head gasket was Mr. Gasket .026" (would use Victor Reinz .026" though if I had them).
all seals, (front cover and rear main seal).
New Melling M99HVS oil pump with oil pump drive shaft (BBC style HV and HP)
Stock oil pan with stock windage tray.

Already have the heads/cam/valve train. Came off my 383LT1. It's a street solid roller set up. The heads are priceless (to me). I've spent umpteen thousands on them over the years. And the intake/exhaust runners are untouched...(GM LT4 heads with good valve job and pocket porting by local pro stock guru Terry Samakow).

You could certainly go cheaper than what I paid if using the cheaper SCAT or Eagle rods and cheaper hyper pistons. But for $200 or $300 bucks more it's nice to have the forged Mahle pistons. I think I am overdoing it on the rods but they are only about $60 more than the 3/8" bolt I-beam style.

I like your plan and identify with it. Get the best heads you can afford and divert as much money as possible from the bottom end and move it to the top end.

Karl
PS: good luck on the build

 

Hyper pistons arent that bad, still better than stock....


If its going to be a street motor car, and not a crazy setup I dont see a reason not to use hypers...

They will also hold up well to spray, but a forged is still better...


Ive always wanted to do a 355......

 

The stock piston is hypereutectic and is one of the best. I personally would never replace the stock piston with an aftermarket Hyper piston unless it was lighter and very high quality. The stock rings are plasmamoly top (and made by Mahle too). That's why the LT1 piston can take so much nitrous.

Karl

 

I spent about 1K in parts using SRP forged pistons and eagle rods. LE2's 1500
&1750 with cam. there's so much crap i dont wanna list it ....dont forget a tune!

i spent about 5K but i also built a 9" and full suspenion.....and a 600 clutch.....and a 550 tune.....and, and, and.....so on.

 

Wow Well im at about 1600 using stock crank but i wanted it a certain way oh well I still have about 3k of top end to do.

 

I've been toying around with the idea of a monster H/C 383 for a while, but now i'm thinkin about a monster boost 355

 

darn as of now i have money to do the bottom end but no money left for the top. i think im just going to leave the bottom end stock now and do the le2 kit or go with different heads with custom grind cam

 

hang out and pick up some good used heads....trust me they pop up on here for 800-900 bucks. Get you a custom grind cam to match the heads after you find a set.

 

If you only have 2k I would just go Le2 or any other heads porters port pros is also in your range of cost. then save up for a full on build later.