Help!!!..Valve Spring help needed
#1
Help!!!..Valve Spring help needed
Yeah so im changing out the valve springs on my 95 to complete the cam swap and ran into a lil wall....I can't seem to find the right fitting that fits in the spark plug hole to hold the Valves closed while changing the springs out...I wen t and got one from O'Reileys but it didn't seem to fit, or are they just that much of a PITA to get started???
#2
Well your problem is not the fittings but rather your lack of research. Had you done adequate reading you would understand all you need to do is bring each cylinder to TDC as you work on it's springs and the valves can not drop more than about .25". Have to make sure you stay in order and have the cylinder at TDC otherwise you can drop a valve but this is so much simpler than dicking around with air fittings.
#3
Ok..for 1...It's not my lack of reasearch, but my way to simplify....bringing each cylinder to TDC would take alot more time than just pulling a plug and sticking through air the cylinder...hmmm I dunno...maybe it's just me but I'd much rather just pull plugs and put air through it rather than turn the whole damn motor over by hand to put each cylinder at TDC, it's also not dicking around with fittings either when theres supposed to be a specialty tool to do it this way
#4
You are going to have to turn it over by hand to at least roughly adjust the valvetrain anyway even if you do final adjustment running.
Keep trying to justify your poor decision making though, maybe the project will complete itself.
Keep trying to justify your poor decision making though, maybe the project will complete itself.
#6
i used to work at oreilly's one of the fittings in the box should work its usually the one that has the fine threads they are sometimes a pita to get started try to start the fitting in the head without the hose on it that might help, you might have already tried that if not it might work, i like airing the cylinders up because its easier to get the locks in and out without the valve trying to move up and down on ya
#7
The fresh seals you should be installing will hold the valves up.
You might be surprised if you met me in person, I am just as direct, no hiding behind a keyboard for me.
I have done several set of LT1 springs, I know what I am doing.
Tell me what is your rebuttal to my pointing out you have to turn the motor by hand to adjust the valvetrain anyway?
Point being you have to turn it by hand anyway so why not just do it now and get the project done rather than waiting for someone to come here and tell you what you want to hear.
There are only a couple different sparkplug thread sizes so chances are like 99.9% you have the right one in hand and it is just too much of a PITA to get started causing you to mistake it for the wrong size.
You might be surprised if you met me in person, I am just as direct, no hiding behind a keyboard for me.
I have done several set of LT1 springs, I know what I am doing.
Tell me what is your rebuttal to my pointing out you have to turn the motor by hand to adjust the valvetrain anyway?
Point being you have to turn it by hand anyway so why not just do it now and get the project done rather than waiting for someone to come here and tell you what you want to hear.
There are only a couple different sparkplug thread sizes so chances are like 99.9% you have the right one in hand and it is just too much of a PITA to get started causing you to mistake it for the wrong size.
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#8
Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
The fresh seals you should be installing will hold the valves up.
You might be surprised if you met me in person, I am just as direct, no hiding behind a keyboard for me.
I have done several set of LT1 springs, I know what I am doing.
Tell me what is your rebuttal to my pointing out you have to turn the motor by hand to adjust the valvetrain anyway?
Point being you have to turn it by hand anyway so why not just do it now and get the project done rather than waiting for someone to come here and tell you what you want to hear.
There are only a couple different sparkplug thread sizes so chances are like 99.9% you have the right one in hand and it is just too much of a PITA to get started causing you to mistake it for the wrong size.
You might be surprised if you met me in person, I am just as direct, no hiding behind a keyboard for me.
I have done several set of LT1 springs, I know what I am doing.
Tell me what is your rebuttal to my pointing out you have to turn the motor by hand to adjust the valvetrain anyway?
Point being you have to turn it by hand anyway so why not just do it now and get the project done rather than waiting for someone to come here and tell you what you want to hear.
There are only a couple different sparkplug thread sizes so chances are like 99.9% you have the right one in hand and it is just too much of a PITA to get started causing you to mistake it for the wrong size.
If you are going to help some one, don't put them down at the same time. ****, people don't come here to be put down, they come here for help. If you have something to say to help him out then just say it and move on. That is why most people say you are a dick and I agree. We now you can work on your car, we get it. Just because you do it one way dose not mean it is the only way.
#9
If you buy the $20 compression gauge with a hose on it all you have to do is take the valve core out of the end of it and it threads in the head. The other end has a 1/4" quick connect that fits most compresors. It even comes with a 12 hose that acts as a swivel to get around the headers.
#10
Thank you F8TL and jake.......the problem i was having was that the lil tool I bought was actually too big to even get the threads started....I will look around and see what they have when I get some extra time agian.....
#11
I also did my springs the with no air. Just put the cylinder at TDC, put the new springs on it, and then do a rough adjustment of the valves. I adjust them with the car running, but I do a rough adjustment first. Move the crank 90* and do the next cylinder in the firing order. 2 crank revolutions and your done. I have done springs both ways and this way seems easier for me. Messing with that hose on a few cylinders is a PITA with my headers. Just some thought.
#12
Originally Posted by rkinney
I also did my springs the with no air. Just put the cylinder at TDC, put the new springs on it, and then do a rough adjustment of the valves. I adjust them with the car running, but I do a rough adjustment first. Move the crank 90* and do the next cylinder in the firing order. 2 crank revolutions and your done. I have done springs both ways and this way seems easier for me. Messing with that hose on a few cylinders is a PITA with my headers. Just some thought.
well seeing that the only way I can turn my crank is by the flywheel and I have no lift and have a lil fear of crawling up under a car on jackstands...and before it gets said, the front of the crank is bare since im waiting on a Timing chain to make its way here