When the valve lash is done, tell me if this procedure is correct.

After everything is installed, use a feeler gauge at the setting the cam specs recommend, and slide it slowly between the roller tip of the rocker and the end of the valve stem. Slowly tighten the adjuster nut until the feeler gauge, moving between the two pieces, feels like a knife going through cold butter. Once that setting is reached, lock down the adjuster nut to keep it at that setting.

Is this correct, and if so, should the rocker have a small gap between the roller tip and top of the valve stem running a solid roller setup?

 

It sounds like you have it but I think a knife through cold butter would be a little tight. You want it where you can feel a slight drag. Make sure that both valves are closed on the cylinder you are working on. And yes there will be a gap between the rocker and valve.

 

Is that gap fine? I just seems sloppy, and with lift over .620, I don't want anything being sloppy at all when revving to 7200 RPM, unless it's suppose to be setup that way. I'm thinkin of lowerin it from .022 to something like .010 lash.

 

I would go with what ever is recomended for that cam. You need to have some play when you rev that high and thats just how solid rollers work.

 

Yeah a solid setup must have slop. If you have no slop you are on the verge of keeping the valve open.

 

Alright, that's startin to sound correct with my problem. It looks like my buddy got a few of the cylinders right, so a few fire, but then the others don't because they're still hangin open. I'll look at gettin those done tonight if possible, it's just really hard while the motor is in the car with a Jesel system, having to get 2 ppl to do it.

 

This is the pattern I did if it helps you..

 

So you only put the crank in 2 positions, TDC for cylinder 1 and 6, to adjust them?

 

Don't pay any attention to the 1/4 past resistance, that's for hydraulic rollers.

 

I know not to go past the feeler gauge setting, but i'm still not sure that having a little "slop" with the gap will work. I'll set it at .020 when I do it again here in a day or so, and see if that works, but i'm still not content about the slop.

 

When you set it to .020 and then take the feeler guage out, You will have .020 worth of slop. That is just how a solid setup works. You dont have the give that a hydrualic setup does.

 

Yea..that is for Hyd Roller..The pattern is money though, saves time.
That Solid must sound like a Sewing Macine..

 

It probably will, but i'll have to see if I can manage to get it going with this proper valve lash. I guess i've dealt with only hydraulic setups before, so i'm not used to the "slop" of a solid setup.

So getting the 1st and 6th at TDC, how do I go about that? Do I just have someone rotate it and watch when the valves are both close on that cylinder?

 

It works though, some of them go like hell...

 

So finding cylinder 1 and 6 TDC, just rotate till they look like it? Or can I use my harmonic dampner and find it using the markings on it somehow?

 

Look at the #1 and #6 Valves. Get it to where the Arrow on the Dampener is up, then turn it a little bit and see which Valves move. The opposite will be at TDC.

 

Awesome, i'll be trying that tomorrow morning. Got myself a gamblin night tonight at a casino, and then workin on the car tomorrow, and hopefully she'll start up. I will really pee myself if she does after over 2 1/2 years.

 

Hopefully it does. That is long time to work on it..
I miss mine after it being down for a couple of months for now, so I know the feeling.

 

Use the lash (slop) measurement that the cam manufacturer provided to get it started... Then warm it up, and set them agian. You will notice that after warm-up the lash will get bigger. You want it at that spec when warm.

 

The problem with setting it at the cam spec, is that I don't have the valve lash specs for the cam. I got the engine when the cam was already in, and purchased it private party, and went through a whole **** load of trouble to get it ready to run. The guy didn't provide any information about the cam other then the specs of the cam itself. So i'm going off the stuff i've read saying the lash could be anywhere from .016-.035, so i'll set it at .020, and if it gets larger, I can adjust it then if it becomes an issue.